Dale & Harry, thanks, I'll probably weld the brackets together, I'm a little tough on my tractors. I know it will work it came off a 102. Harry if your up this way give a call. The 123 may or may not be here. I bought it for use over at my cabin - Laughing squirrel lodge, so far I haven't had time to get every thing the way I want it, so I keep hauling it back and forth. It's logged about 1500 miles since I got it
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Archive through November 25, 2014
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Doug - if you weld the brackets together you'll never get them off the sub-frame assembly again. Why don't you just put some threads on each of the welded pins on the sub-frame and then use a nut and washer to hold the bracket to the sub-frame.
Some day I will get up your way to see this stuff. It's just that you tend to get that white stuff this time of year, and we hardly ever get it 50 miles south of ya. I'm just to old for that stuff anymore - except seeing it out my wind'a
Some day I will get up your way to see this stuff. It's just that you tend to get that white stuff this time of year, and we hardly ever get it 50 miles south of ya. I'm just to old for that stuff anymore - except seeing it out my wind'a
Beginning of winter and I'm in a world of S#1+! First time out with the QA42-A snowthrower yesterday - going to clean the driveway from the first snowfall of the year. Engage clutch on the trusty 1250 and the auger starts turning - go to throttle up and auger just stops! Check things out and see that the gearbox input shaft is rotating as it should but nothing on the output shaft. My worst snowthrower fears are realized - appears that my gearbox is trashed.
As the failure was without any mechanical drama (no grinding, lockup, etc.) I'm hoping just an internal key sheared. Going to attempt to remove the gearbox without separating the blower from the tractor - looks like it's possible if the drive pulley will remove from the input shaft without a fight.
Any advice from others who've experienced this problem? I'll keep all of you posted on what I find once the gearbox is on the bench.
As the failure was without any mechanical drama (no grinding, lockup, etc.) I'm hoping just an internal key sheared. Going to attempt to remove the gearbox without separating the blower from the tractor - looks like it's possible if the drive pulley will remove from the input shaft without a fight.
Any advice from others who've experienced this problem? I'll keep all of you posted on what I find once the gearbox is on the bench.
David, oh no!
I have that fear as well, so I have quietly been stocking up on spare parts. Hopefully it's only a sheared key. Let me know if you need any parts and I'll go check my stash.
Dave K.
Nothing that a 7/16 wrench, snap ring pliers and a new drive gear won't fix.
Keys never shear off in those things, but they do eat teeth.
One hour tops.
Nothing that a 7/16 wrench, snap ring pliers and a new drive gear won't fix.
Keys never shear off in those things, but they do eat teeth.
One hour tops.
DAVE - Charlie's correct those snow blower gear boxes work until they quietly break. It's been a while since I was inside the one on my QA-36, but I remember thinking the bevel gears were made from powdered metal.
You'll get the gearbox off, apart, and repaired in an hour. I'd flush the gearbox well, get all the broken bits of gear teeth out.
You'll get the gearbox off, apart, and repaired in an hour. I'd flush the gearbox well, get all the broken bits of gear teeth out.
hydroharry
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Hey David K, et al - geez, and I thought the gear boxes were nearly bullet proof except for the set screw connecting the drive shaft to the output shaft of the box, coming loose (it really should have a 2 set screw setup, which you probably realize and I suspect will add while you have your thrower torn down).
I have to think you're better off removing the thrower from the tractor. I'd be surprised if you can get that drive pulley off - there's just no room to get at it with the thrower still mounted. Since your message was at 9AM I suspect you're well on your way to resolution and repair by now. I'm guessing since you didn't post yet that you've encountered something really bad inside the box, but please let us know.
Jeff B - only you could be so lucky.
I have to think you're better off removing the thrower from the tractor. I'd be surprised if you can get that drive pulley off - there's just no room to get at it with the thrower still mounted. Since your message was at 9AM I suspect you're well on your way to resolution and repair by now. I'm guessing since you didn't post yet that you've encountered something really bad inside the box, but please let us know.
Jeff B - only you could be so lucky.
nbextermueller
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Harry, I think you like to just play devils advocate... Like 3 people in a row say "no problem getting that gear box fixed, don't remove it." For you to follow up with, "I think you should do all this extra work to do this job other people have first hand experience doing"?
Have you ever even replaced this gear box gear? Or tried to get the pulley of still attached?
I don't even own a blower, so I like to stay quiet and read the tips from the guys that have done it. Then you come rain on the encouragement party.
Have you ever even replaced this gear box gear? Or tried to get the pulley of still attached?
I don't even own a blower, so I like to stay quiet and read the tips from the guys that have done it. Then you come rain on the encouragement party.
I picked up a 128 recently. I went to change the oil and it appears a couple threads are damaged. The cub parts lookup says it is a 3/8-18 thread. Mine is more like 5/8-18. I have two other k301 blocks and both appear to be pipe plugs. I was wondering if anyone knows what the threads should be.
Hey Guys,
Thank you all for your support! I did have to remove the thrower from tractor as (of all things) one of the drive pulley set screws internal hex rounded off, thus had to drill out and use an easy-out to remove it. Took about 2.5 hours to get the gearbox removed.
I was rather happy to find all the gear teeth intact after removing the cover. The drive pinion (small gear) key is sheared, allowing the pinion to rotate on the shaft. Still digging out the old grease and trying to figure out how this comes apart.
I think the shaft retaining rings are removed and the shafts drive inwards, keeping the outer ball bearings in place. Sound correct? I don't have any service information on rebuilding these gearboxes, but I do have the parts listing and an exploded view.
Thank you all for your support! I did have to remove the thrower from tractor as (of all things) one of the drive pulley set screws internal hex rounded off, thus had to drill out and use an easy-out to remove it. Took about 2.5 hours to get the gearbox removed.
I was rather happy to find all the gear teeth intact after removing the cover. The drive pinion (small gear) key is sheared, allowing the pinion to rotate on the shaft. Still digging out the old grease and trying to figure out how this comes apart.
I think the shaft retaining rings are removed and the shafts drive inwards, keeping the outer ball bearings in place. Sound correct? I don't have any service information on rebuilding these gearboxes, but I do have the parts listing and an exploded view.
David, that is good news! Here's a little info from a service manual:
Kraig-
Perfect! Thank you.
Perfect! Thank you.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Dave K.
Refill the box with corn head grease ("000" grade grease), or a mixture of grease and 90 wt. Plain old grease dries out and doesn't flow well to the bearings.
Rhino brand brush cutters use a "000" grease that works well, or try the local CIH or Deere dealer for "corn head" grease (for the snapping roll gear boxes, on corn heads).
Refill the box with corn head grease ("000" grade grease), or a mixture of grease and 90 wt. Plain old grease dries out and doesn't flow well to the bearings.
Rhino brand brush cutters use a "000" grease that works well, or try the local CIH or Deere dealer for "corn head" grease (for the snapping roll gear boxes, on corn heads).
Wishing a safe and Happy Thanksgiving Day to all!
I heard of a pretty slick deal today for all you narrow frame guys out there. We've all been there trying to get at the nut on the backside of the frame that holds on mule drives and blower brackets. Rather than using a standard nut use the +/- 2" "nut" that is used to attach 1/2" threaded rod together. Plenty of length to get the wrench onto.
