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Archive through November 22, 2009
- Thread starter aschumacher
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
frank: Oh i know that wouldive been bad. i quickly did the conection rod bolts then reasembled the engine mounted it in the 73,hooked up all the electrical and then turned the key and she fired first try. the only problem now is shes blowing black smoke. carb is not adjusted so im hoping its that. its almost midnight in pa so i will finish it tm after class
Steve & Wyatt, now that you mention it I recall all of them do have heavy low clearance front axles.
That 756 is cool, but I don't know why you'd call that cab an ice cream box. Looks more like an oven to me. The side windows don't even open.
Jerry
That 756 is cool, but I don't know why you'd call that cab an ice cream box. Looks more like an oven to me. The side windows don't even open.
Jerry
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Too wet to pick corn this weekend (we tried, but the 1460 w/28L rubber didn't want any part of some of the mud we had after 2" of rain) so I put the thrower and blade on the cubs in an effort to ward off the forcasted snow this week.
2072 ended up with an extra 100# of weight and then got chained up.
Super 782 got the 42" thrower. Didn't feel like switching the 10.50 rubber back on, let alone all of the wheel weights, so I decided to try to get the 10.5 chains to fit the 26" Tru-Powers. Had to run to Menards for some additional side chain and connector links, then dig out my stash of unused cross links....looks like I'll have enough to get the job done. 10.50 chains won't ride quite as low on the tires, but I'm sure I can get the tight enough to keep them from flying off. Maybe some pics tomorrow night, if I get them on.
2072 ended up with an extra 100# of weight and then got chained up.
Super 782 got the 42" thrower. Didn't feel like switching the 10.50 rubber back on, let alone all of the wheel weights, so I decided to try to get the 10.5 chains to fit the 26" Tru-Powers. Had to run to Menards for some additional side chain and connector links, then dig out my stash of unused cross links....looks like I'll have enough to get the job done. 10.50 chains won't ride quite as low on the tires, but I'm sure I can get the tight enough to keep them from flying off. Maybe some pics tomorrow night, if I get them on.
Any body remember Year a Round. Deceble level and temp went up 20 points. You were better off with a good heat houser, at least you could take that off easy. The 86 series had the first cab, I was in, you could be plowing and talk to the niebore on the cb.
Started putting the snowblower I painted back together today, I hate u-joints. I believe the little ones are worse than the bigger ones.
Started putting the snowblower I painted back together today, I hate u-joints. I believe the little ones are worse than the bigger ones.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard-
Nope, they are different.
Nope, they are different.
FRANK C. - That 122 w/belly blade is DAN H's. He designed his differently than I did and I really like the way his lift works. As the lift arms on the rockshaft pivot forward it pulls the blade up higher. Notice the blade is probably 4" off the ground. He has mounting brackets on the rear axle carriers similar to the ones for My sleeve hitch pin to push the blade.
STEVE B. - Glad to see You posting, sorry to hear about the rain but at least You didn't "PLANT" the 1460.
KENDELL - I used a couple 1/4" thk. steel plates for the swivel on my blade. Four small pieces of angle iron for the 1/2" bolts to bolt it to the mule drive. The pivot bolt is a 1" grd #5 if I remember right. I added tubing on the top of the top plate that bolts to the stationary plate to support the pivot bolt, and a tube on the bottom pivoting plate also. The bottom plate is round, top is square. The corners of the bottom plate became gussets to support the top & bottom tubes. I didn't have a welder at the time so I made all the bits & pieces and ran it out to Dad's to weld it all up.
The blade itself is 40" wide but if I had to do it over I'd make it 42" or maybe a bit wider. When at full angle the blade barely moves the dirt beyond the rear tires, which is why I try to keep it on a tractor with 6-12 tires. Depending on which mule drive You have for your WF may make the bracket a bit harder to make. The straight brackets would work best for the older decks.
DAVE R. - Neighbor had a Year-a-Round cab on his 4020/M&W turbo. It was his year-a-round chore tractor, made a trip to his farm a mile away from home with his grinder-mixer at least every other day. The BTO I worked for got a new open station 4020-D w/NFE and a 4320 w/factory cab the first year the side console tractors were out, '69 I think. The cab wasn't bad, but the A/C only ever worked ONE day. That 4320 had 3 hours on the tach the first time I ran it plowing one warm night the day it was delivered. I was really looking forward to chopping hay with that tractor. I ended up using the open station 4020 on the chopper most of that year. I think I actually stayed cooler, but not cleaner. Running with the wind I had a surgical mask & goggles on so I could see & breathe. Sometimes I could barely tell the chopper & wagon were still behind the tractor!
STEVE B. - Glad to see You posting, sorry to hear about the rain but at least You didn't "PLANT" the 1460.
KENDELL - I used a couple 1/4" thk. steel plates for the swivel on my blade. Four small pieces of angle iron for the 1/2" bolts to bolt it to the mule drive. The pivot bolt is a 1" grd #5 if I remember right. I added tubing on the top of the top plate that bolts to the stationary plate to support the pivot bolt, and a tube on the bottom pivoting plate also. The bottom plate is round, top is square. The corners of the bottom plate became gussets to support the top & bottom tubes. I didn't have a welder at the time so I made all the bits & pieces and ran it out to Dad's to weld it all up.
The blade itself is 40" wide but if I had to do it over I'd make it 42" or maybe a bit wider. When at full angle the blade barely moves the dirt beyond the rear tires, which is why I try to keep it on a tractor with 6-12 tires. Depending on which mule drive You have for your WF may make the bracket a bit harder to make. The straight brackets would work best for the older decks.
DAVE R. - Neighbor had a Year-a-Round cab on his 4020/M&W turbo. It was his year-a-round chore tractor, made a trip to his farm a mile away from home with his grinder-mixer at least every other day. The BTO I worked for got a new open station 4020-D w/NFE and a 4320 w/factory cab the first year the side console tractors were out, '69 I think. The cab wasn't bad, but the A/C only ever worked ONE day. That 4320 had 3 hours on the tach the first time I ran it plowing one warm night the day it was delivered. I was really looking forward to chopping hay with that tractor. I ended up using the open station 4020 on the chopper most of that year. I think I actually stayed cooler, but not cleaner. Running with the wind I had a surgical mask & goggles on so I could see & breathe. Sometimes I could barely tell the chopper & wagon were still behind the tractor!
Morning guys. I had a snail mail delivered right to my door. Helps when the wife works for Canada post lol. So the drive shaft and other parts have arrived here for the 1512 D and I can now get it back together and run the Diesel some. later Don T
and this snow blower is here for a check over, I wish I had one for the 1512 and will have to get one for next winter.
and this snow blower is here for a check over, I wish I had one for the 1512 and will have to get one for next winter.
J
jott
Guest
How hard would it be to turn a 147 into a 146? I see the creeper hole as the biggest challenge.
JOSH - Unless You plan on running a roto-tiller I wouldn't bother with a creeper. And then I would keep it a hydro anyhow.
I've never had a creeper on ANY of my GD's. Only time I ever felt one would have been nice was on the 72 when it was still K181-powered when running the QA-36 snow blower. When I put the K241 in the 72 I never really felt the creeper would have helped that much.
I've never had a creeper on ANY of my GD's. Only time I ever felt one would have been nice was on the 72 when it was still K181-powered when running the QA-36 snow blower. When I put the K241 in the 72 I never really felt the creeper would have helped that much.
Matt S.,
If I were you, I'd look into getting that 149 axle welded and back into service. I had a similar axle break on my 129 from hitting a tree. I took the grinder to it to clean the area and grind a slight V at the break, then a buddy of mine welded it back together. Been going ever since (but I haven't hit any more trees either)! Use some 99% nickel rod - not cheap, but it was cheaper and easier for me then replacing the axle would have been.
Regarding Cub lighting:
Some folks should consider how close their neighbor's house is when looking at changing to different or adding night lights. If your property line is close to the neighbor's house, then you probably don't want to be shining into their house with bright lights @ 2am - let alone adding the bark of that Kohler!
Considering the ground speed these Cubs run at, I'd suggest there is little need for lights to shine 50+ft ahead of the tractor. Rather, use lights that shine wider rather than farther. I also agree wiring Cub lights (LED or conventional) through a switch AND an inline fuse. Just my novice opinions...
Ryan Wilke
If I were you, I'd look into getting that 149 axle welded and back into service. I had a similar axle break on my 129 from hitting a tree. I took the grinder to it to clean the area and grind a slight V at the break, then a buddy of mine welded it back together. Been going ever since (but I haven't hit any more trees either)! Use some 99% nickel rod - not cheap, but it was cheaper and easier for me then replacing the axle would have been.
Regarding Cub lighting:
Some folks should consider how close their neighbor's house is when looking at changing to different or adding night lights. If your property line is close to the neighbor's house, then you probably don't want to be shining into their house with bright lights @ 2am - let alone adding the bark of that Kohler!
Considering the ground speed these Cubs run at, I'd suggest there is little need for lights to shine 50+ft ahead of the tractor. Rather, use lights that shine wider rather than farther. I also agree wiring Cub lights (LED or conventional) through a switch AND an inline fuse. Just my novice opinions...
Ryan Wilke
Hmmm, what was it I posted about 1x8/9 axles not too long ago...
J
jott
Guest
Dennis F, It would be used for snowblower, mowing and tilling duties. Besides, I would want one in it anyway.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Well I`am hopeful that you can find a post on Diggers restoration of a 169 he did a few years back. Can you post a picture or a few of how that turned out lol.
I for one would like to see what he did! later Don T
Well I`am hopeful that you can find a post on Diggers restoration of a 169 he did a few years back. Can you post a picture or a few of how that turned out lol.
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Don-
He finished that thing????
He finished that thing????
