Archive through November 21, 2012

[thoffman]

Steve, Usually one per foot.

 

[sblunier]

Tom,

But will a Cub Cadet PULL 2, 3, 4 of them at 3",4",5" deep?

Gears are spinning for a project....

 

[thoffman]

Are you planning on using it in conjuction with a box/blade? The extra hp needed to pull you load in the box or on the blade may be a issue with the scarifier. If you set it up that the scarifing pass isn't being carried with the load/spoils I think you would be OK. I would think 1' scarifiers set at 4" - 5" would be a problem. I know there is different measures for plowing but your cutting/rolling over 20" with your 2 X 10's with no issues now correct?

 

[digger]

My 169 did a fair job with turfs in sandy ground,

I had to add weight and ags to get serious.

I could bury the teeth up to the frame after that.

If you need measurements and spacing, let me know.

 

[sblunier]

I'm good on the measurements, thanks........

Going a little different direction......

 

[wcompton]

Gosh, the next thing this guy is going to build is a tile plow!!!

BTW- I bet with the right coulter setup and the right points, they'll do it. I've always thought a mini-ripper made out of the jaw tines of a bale attachment for a loader would look to-scale and work out well. If you run the draft numbers it would do it, it just needs a lot of weight.

 

[mhomrighausen]

My goodness, Steve. Now you're talking building some really WOW items for a Cub Cadet.

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - I'm pretty sure WYATT's right, you could probably pull about 3 shanks and some disks in front. Not sure how deep the shanks could go in... maybe 4-5 inches, maybe more in good conditions with enough weight. Drop back to two shanks and 8-10 inches might be possible.

Neighbor chiseled the 100+ acres behind me with his C/IH MX210 and a 7-shank chisel plow. When he went along side my yard where he loaded his semi's with corn, lots of 850 bu. loaded grain cart traffic, he ground to a stop several times with all six tires spinning, had to make two passes on some of it. Everywhere else he didn't have much problem. Neighbor across the road pulls a 9 or 11 shank chisel with a green 4955 and he's got a full rack of frt weights plus around 2000+# hanging on the back but he doesn't run near as fast as the C/IH does! In hard pulling I've seen the green chisel plow hop really bad too.

You may have to build an articulated 4X4 next, something like Glenn P's. Put all your weight to work.

I remember several times chisel plowing for the land-lord back in Freeport, pulling a 13 shank Glenco Soil-Saver w/8440 JD I spun out on several hills, all eight tires spinning. I'd spend most nights creeping along in A range 2nd & 3rd gear. Burned a lot of fuel too, around 10-11 gal/hour.

 

[jjsmith]

I can bury all five shanks of my cultivater turned ripper easily 5-6" behind the 1200 usually with a friend standing on the frame of the ripper. I've started to spin out a couple times but have never been stopped in my tracks. Then again I don't have any disks in front to pull either.

 

[sblunier]

Dad just finished chiseling with our 1486 and 13 shank EARLY 70's vintage (white frame) DMI chisel. 14 is a little hot, but not crazy, probably around 185hp and the chisel is in the ground an honest 11" with twisted shovels........low 4th with the stick ahead or high 1st with the stick back, take your pick. 18.4x38 rears with fluid, 18.4 duals (dry), 3 pair CI wheel weights and 1000# on the front.

She's a good old horse, but like you said, those end rows can be trouble! 4L stick back, sometimes 3L!!!!

So...let's see here, 42" single gang disk and 5 shanks at 3-4" deep...not too bad. Probably pull harder if I use ripper shanks off of a box blade and easier if I use Danish tines with small sweeps. Maybe 4 ripper shanks across the rear V and a single danish tine up front to break out the center ridge from the disks..?...?

Of course a leveling bar with harrow teeth would be a nice addition....

 

[jjsmith]

Sounds like a swell plan! Can't wait to see it!

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE - You're going to need duals on the tractor pulling that thing... otherwise it'll just sit and dig holes.

I'm sure it will be as nice a piece of craftsmanship as your #520 semi-mounted plow. Looking forward to seeing pic's of your progress.

Wyatt, Kenny U, & I went to a plow day hosted by IHCC Wis chapter #4 years ago in Oconomowoc, WI just north off I-94. Guy that was Chapter 4's secretary-treasurer had his 5288 FWA there with a #735 6-bottom plow. Tractor was set around 175-185 HP... I got to ride with his SON a couple passes plowing. That thing seemed unstoppable. First pass in yellow clay he had that plow widened out to a full 22 inches/bottom and socked into the ground about a foot. He could still run 5 MPH with a load like that. Second pass he shallowed up the plow and narrowed it up to 14-16"/bottom, and 8-9 inches deep. He shifted up a gear, was running about 6 MPH. That tractor almost had more power than ALL the tractors Dad ever owned combined!

185 HP from a DT-436 is easily do-able. To get much more they really should be intercooled like the DTI-466 in the 5488's were. Helps keep EGT's down. I forget who wrote the article in RPM years ago about the tuning of the 400-series engines, think it was Guy Fay. IH tested them enough they knew exactly how far they could push them.

 

[mmasheris]

Steve you will need a set of these

 

[alies]

I have been reading for the most part so it's time to post what I have been doing as time has permits.
I have 5 cubs 2 that run both are 100. Instead of starting on father in laws 100 which is complete. I picked up a 102 to get past my need to make changer, can’t seem to leave things alone so I think it’s better on one that was really rough and incomplete.
Started with disassembly than the first mod was to remove the front cross member, clean it up and make new bushings than welded it in 3” forward from original. Next was the dash I replaced the small battery box with a new larger one.
I came across a 154 steering column, stronger and more turns lock to lock had to have. With the new column it required additional dash modifications. With the changes complete and column installed the steering geometry is verified looks good.
Last 2 photos it’s going back together!

Thanks for all the inspirational.
Al

Charlie was here.

 

[alies]

Sorry the following will complete up to today
Charlie was here.

Charlie was here.

Charlie was here.

Charlie was here.

Charlie was here.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Albert, interesting mods! I'm looking forward to seeing this complete. Why move the front axle forward? That might mess up mounting implements such as a mower deck mule drive, a dozer blade and so on. Is it intended for rear attachment use only?

 

[alies]

Kraig,
I’m not sure this one will see much work other than my grandsons driving it in the back yard. I had some thoughts about a front end loader for the yard work. I was thinking by moving the front cross member and adding a box scraper in back would be useable weight rather than the need for dead weight.
Al
Thanks Charlie

 

[aschmidt]

Starting a new project. The width is 58", 16" tall on one side, 38" tall on other. .105" thick Stainless Steel. More to come.

 

[jchamberlin]

Aaron: That is cool!

 

[aschumacher]

Aaron...That looks looks like something I might be able to attach to the front of my Honda Fit !