Archive through November 19, 2008

[trentschler]

The 104 hasn't been starting well. I hold the key down for literally 30 seconds and she finally gets going at the end. Is this a spark issue? Bad gas? Can't be the battery, she's crankin fine. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[jspence]

Don T; You better have the heat on or I won't be workin' on no Cubs this weekend.

 

[sstanton]

I do believe I fried my starter selonoid! I was wondering if this was a servicable or rebuildable piece or am I going to have to buy another? I have had nothing but trouble with the 106 since I bought a new wire harness. Is it possible that it is not used to getting all the juice from the old one and this stuff is going bad beause of it? All the connections are right and I have good grounds, S/G works and voltage regulator is in need of a finer adjustment, but thats all I can come up with.

 

[dtanner]

Hello Jim , heat is on now. LOL bring a good tack that i can set the high (3900) on the 147. Have a great day i`am off to look after cash at the Lion`s Club bingo.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, what rod do you have in your 147 engine? Did you build it to be able to handle 3900 RPM? "Killer" was built to be able to handle that high of RPM. The break in procedure that I posted was for an engine built to David Kirk's "Killer Kohler" specs. If your Kohler doesn't have the forged rod you may not want to go above 3600. Perhaps if David is watching in, he will elaborate.

 

[sstanton]

HEAT!! I sure would like heat in my cub shed! I'm haveing a hard enough time trying to get electric out there, wife keeps telling me we're putting in a garage so I dont need it! I still dont have a garage.

 

[sstanton]

I have a new solenoid coming. My local NAPA guys take care of me pretty well! I have to fork over $20 for and I have to wait for it to come from Cleveland, OH, but its coming! I guess I'm going to be doing snow removal the old fashioned way for a short time.......darn shovel anyway!!

 

[wbest]

Had to have one more Cub Cadet. Found this 149 on the west side of Indy. Bought it from the original owner. He had the Brinly 3 pt hitch installed at the dealer at time of purchase. It has been painted over but you can see the outline of the Brinly oval decal. I haven't unloaded it yet. Still in the truck charging the battery. This one had a good home, low hours, used mainly to move a trailer around. This one is a keeper.

 

[wbest]

I guess I just don't understand this website. When I previewed the previous post, the pictures were in the correct vertical positions. I hit the enter key between each picture. I would appreciate any pointers on posting. Thanks, William

 

[lbuttke]

David A

The key can be gotten at any Case IH dealer as long as it is the orginal IH key.
If by chance you have the old B/S type key, they can usaly be picked up at a good hardwear store.

Aslo you can find either type of key at one of the sponcers ot the top of this page.

 

[sstanton]

I found a Cub at my uncles I might be able to get a hold of for nothing. It has a broken rear end in it. I believe it is aluminum so it would be a mtd job. It looks older, I'm thinking 82' or 83'. Its a hydrostatic, unsure of the model as of yet but it says "HYDRO" on each side of the hood. Could anyone help me identify it if I posted pics?

 

[rrschmitt]

Kevin P,

To remove the S/G pulley you should just have to remove the nut and lock washer on the end of the armature shaft and then pry it off with a pair of screwdrivers. Pry only on the hub of the pulley and against the cast end of the S/G. There is a half moon key common to the shaft and pulley. If your shaft is rusty it would be good to clean it up as much as possible with a wire brush or emery cloth and soak it with a penetrating oil.

Loosing the nut on the armature shaft is usually the biggest challenge as you can't put the pulley in a vise as you will likely ruin it. I just take the S/G apart (comes apart really easily by removing the two long bolts, remove end cap and pull armature out of the housing) and put the armature itself in the vise just tight enough to keep it from turning and then remove the nut. While you have it apart, check your bearings and brushes and clean out the brush powder.

You have mentioned something about a ring, is that on the threads? Not sure what you have exactly without seeing a picture.

 

[digger]

Scott S.
So if it's 82 or 83 and a MTD product, what's it doing on this page?

 

[sstanton]

Charlie very true! I will post that in the other section!

 

[rrschmitt]

Jason D,

As Richard does, I get the seals, gaskets and O-rings for the hydro units through from my local Cub Cadet dealer or from the sponsors above. Make sure you get the correct trunnion seals as there are two different types (BTDT). Early hydro seals have a smaller outside diameter and are very compact whereas the later hydros have a much larger OD and look like a big flat washer. I think the change over occurred with the 82 series or late in the Quietline production. If you use the Parts Lookup tool above for your model of Cubbie you should be fine in getting the correct seal.

 

[njohnson]

Hi all,
Been lurking for a while now, and I am addicted.
My neighbor owned a 106, and I was lusting over it for years. I finally caved and picked up a 105 a few weeks back. A couple of weeks later, wouldn't you know it, I came into a free 169 that had thrown a rod. I am getting ready to take the 169's motor to a machine shop to get it bored and have the crank turned. While I am waiting, I'm going to tear the rest down to the frame and give it a good inspection. I have a question about the rear sheet metal for those of you who have done restores. You can see in the picture that it is pretty beat up. Is this worth trying to have fixed, or would it be better to find some good straight metal off another wide frame (assuming they are the same)?
Thanks for your help. This is a fantastic resource, and I hope that I will be able to contribute in the coming years.

Nick

 

[aschumacher]

Charlie, why dont you start a new thread in the SandBox Re: your new diggs...ya know, R U moving whole family...you own all that 20+ acres?? etc.

 

[kide]

Nick:
Welcome to the forum!!
I don't see a lot of rust - now's the time for learning basic body work - A hammer and dolly would probably fix most of what I see in your pic, and look at it this way, if it doesn't turn out, then go after some fresher sheet metal...I'm getting not to be a big fan of Horrible Freight (seen some pics of people hurt with their tools), but one of their basic body working tool sets is pretty safe and is fairly inexpensive.. (JMHO, IIRC, etc. etc. etc.)

 

[lbaker]

Thanks Charlie!!

 

[jwintsch]

Hi all. I've been trying to download a manual for my 1966 123 and I can't find the model and serial number on the plate. Cub's website says its under the seat but someone put a non-stock seat on mine so that area is covered with a board and until I can get around to taking it off - I cant see that area. Any one got a model and serial so I can download the manual pdf from their website?