Archive through November 16, 2008

[kide]

Really, the governor isn't all that complicated or hard to understand...Inside the engine is the flyweight assembly, spun by the cam gear, that pushes against an arm on the cross shaft, one end of which sticks out of the block. The faster the speed, the more it pushes against the arm on the cross shaft, causing the cross shaft to rotate (IIRC no more than about 20-30 degrees total rotation).
On the outside of the block, on the cross shaft, is the governor arm, with a solid link to the throttle arm on the carburetor. As the engine speeds up, the flyweight tries to open, pushing on the internal arm, making the external arm try to push the throttle plate closed. The dash speed control pulls the cable, which tightens the spring that is pulling on the governor arm, trying to OPEN the throttle plate. The trick is in getting the tension of the spring adjusted so that it is balanced against the force of the flyweight.... (pretty simple)..

 

[dtanner]

Kendell Ide (Kide) I have the 149 run in and ready for work. But i`am unhappy with the Throttle response from the dash control handle, very little
movement gives a fast run. its hard to keep and find half T. It will run at any setting with the spring loose. Not sure how to make this work to give me control(throttle position). Thanks for all the help Later Don T

 

[tteague]

Im a blonde kendal, lol. the blonde hair glitches on ya sometimes lmbo

I wish I knew how he adjusted that thing. I tried the directions in the book with no luck. Sorry don, I wish I could help ya

 

[tteague]

Don, thats exactly what mine was doin. The gov. isn't broke it just needs to be adjusted. Try putting throtle at idle, the pull the gov arm back all the way. The book says to adjust throttle at full throttle then pull gov arm back till it stops.try doing the oposite. I think thats what he did to mine.

 

[kide]

Don:
Go back and reread what I said on the 13th at 4:12
Then...

Hopefully your 314 hasn't grown whiskers like the 301....

Remember, this is just IMHO, HIDIITP, etc. etc....

 

[lbuttke]

Had a very laid back weekend, nothing to do but watch the wind blow so I thought I would tackel the trunion on the whatsits,
Here is a rough look it my repair job.

Need to do a tad bit more fileing to make nice and smooth.

Guess the breaks where installed on this one befor it was painted.

Ready for snowduty, when it finially arrives.

 

[bjrainey]

Hey
I need some help. I have been working on my 1450. I cleaned up all the electrical connections, fired her up and was driving out in the driveway.
Everything was running smooth, then she just quit.
I cranked and cranked but no good. No Spark.
The coil, condenser, points, plug, and wire were replaced 2 months ago. I noticed that the hour meter would still run after the key was turned off, so I bought new switches(ignition and PTO) thinking that they were bad. I also put a new battery in her tonight. I put every thing back together tonight and tried to start her, but still no luck. Turns over fine just will not fire.
I have a cc service manual, but didn't find much help on electrical troubleshooting. I noticed a post talking about adjusting the voltage regulator, is there an adjustment on a 1450 regulator? Any suggestions?
Brad

 

[sstanton]

I was having problems with my voltage regulator till I adjusted it. Also found that the key switch may be bad too. I had the 106 running a few days ago(been huntin') and was showing no charge on meter, sooo for farts and giggles I hit the switch all the way over as if I was starting again while it was running and the meter showed it charging at full on idle. I still need to do some more precise adjusting but for the time being I'm going to be in the woods huntin'!

 

[kide]

Brad:
If you've got a mechanical hour meter like this:

they keep on ticking after the power is removed for a (I think) tenth of an hour..
A voltage regulator isn't going to kill your spark, unless it burns up the wiring harness. Go back and trouble shoot your ignition - is there voltage to the positive terminal of the coil when the key is on; are the points grounding the negative side when they close? ..

 

[bjrainey]

Kendall,
I have the older style hour meter. I am hot to the coil. I took out the plug abd grounded it to the motor, but no spark.
I guess tommorrow I will check the points.
Thanks, Brad

 

[kide]

Brad:
I'm not sure what you mean by "older style", but if it ticks when the power is on, it's mechanical and has a solenoid in it that winds a spring that powers clockworks ....it'll "keep on tickin" after the key is off for a short while, making you think the key is still on. BTDT..... If you've got power to the coil, take a jumper wire to the negative side and make momentary contact to ground - you should get a spark every time you break the connection to ground...(if the points are open, or not grounding properly)

 

[nhasson]

Went to rearrange the shed yesterday and put the plow on the 149 and it wouldn't move on full throttle, only on idle. So I decided to change the hydro fluid since I've been putting that off for awhile. I changed the fluid and filter but the fluid looked good. I was a little bit shy on fluid so I didn't try it after that (and my buddy showed up with beer) but any ideas here??? That fluid looked brand new, I can't imagine a fluid change would make a difference. I looked at the linkage at the pump and everything looked good. Again, any ideas??

 

[aaytay]

Nick-
Check the solid pin at the engine coupler and the spirol pin at the transmission coupling, both along the driveshaft.

If one is broken, the driveshaft may be powering the pump at idle, but then slips when you throttle up.

 

[nhasson]

Thanks Art, the front pin is good and it looked like the rear one is also, but I will double check tomorrow. I pray it is that and I just overlooked it. It ran fine when I parked it. I had tilled for an hour or so last and it didn't give me any problems. By the way, that is a fine looking Original on your profile. And does that say, PLOW SPECIAL on the hood? Thanks, Nick

 

[nhasson]

Art, I just went out and checked the rear one, it is good also. And it is really cold out, 18 degrees in the middle of nowhere Pa. I'm thinking maybe the Cubby is paying me back for not putting heat in the shed like I wanted to this summer. Nick

 

[aaytay]

Nick-
Yea, it's 22deg here, so I feel your pain...

I would suggest you take a look at the hydro linkage, but that doesn't explain the high throttle/low throttle differences you're seeing.

Not sure what to tell you at this point, other than to keep in mind that many times when a pin breaks, nothing falls out. The pin looks like it's still intact, but it's broken inside.

Thanks for the comment on the Plow Special. It was a fun project. You are correct on the hood decal...

 

[dfrisk]

KENDELL - I think Brad has the OLD style hour meter with the three different length & color hands and the three separate scales around the outside of the dial. You know....The ones that IMPOSSIBLE to figure out how many hours are on the machine....thanks to this new Digital age We're in!

 

[dtanner]

Nick Hasson (Nhasson) just a thought! the hydro release valves might have stuck. try moving the hydro handle back and forth at medium running speed to see if you can get them to work properly. Could be the hydro pump pressure valve is not working ! just my .02...........I plan on trying a new adjustment on the 149 today to see if i can get a wider throttle on the Cub. more later Don T

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Never had the pleasure-do they "tick"?....Kraig - do you have a picture of the old style hour meter??
I know the first time I heard one (on the neighbor's 67 Sears), I thought I'd left the ignition on...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Last night I checked that the throttle control lever would go WOT in the dash slot per Steve B's suggestion, it did. I adjusted the throttle cable sheath in the clamp to provide more space between the end of the cable sheath and the "High Speed Stop" and readjusted the throttle cable in the "Speed Control Bracket". I then focused my attention on the governor spring. When I last worked on it on Thursday I had the governor spring in this location, see photo below, the idle speed was ~1200 RPM and the WOT was ~3500 RPM.

Kendell suggested that I move the spring in the governor arm rather then moving it in the "Speed Control Bracket". I repositioned the spring to the second hole down on the "Speed Control Bracket" and to the fourth hole up on the governor arm then checked the idle and WOT RPMs. The idle speed was still ~1200 RPM and the WOT RPM was only in the 3000 range and the engine was surging. So I moved the spring back to the settings in the photo above and readjusted the throttle cable and checked the RPMs. I now have ~1000 RPM at idle and ~3500 at WOT. I moved the governor arm by hand with the throttle at WOT and I was able to get at least 3700 RPM. The governor sure has a lot of pull on the throttle.