• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through November 15, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
For the never ending debate, I'll say that I like both hy and gd, but I prefer gd slightly in everything but snow removal. Yeah even mowing, I much prefer set it and forget it with all the hills I have, or anytime I might have a cup of coffee in my hand. With the hydro I pretty much got to have my hand on it the whole time cause it keeps slowing down or speeding up. Hydro is nice around some of the trees though. Pulling weight goes either way. I often haul a lot of wood on my 6x10 road trailer (1400 lbs just the trailer empty) or my 30cuft cart I made that I haul wood in with on rough terrain and steep hills on the farm. I don't know which I prefer in that situation, maybe the hydro since the hydro helps with braking and I can vary speed without having to disengage the drive, sometimes if you have to put the clutch in on a steep part hauling a heavy load, things can get scary. But I like the clutch in the woods otherwise, especially so I can use my hand to push branches and stuff away from my face and still be able to vary the speed, or if I have something in my hand like a chainsaw.

Dennis, I had a similar problem at first with the throwout arm still putting pressure on the bearing driving around. And I probably shouldnt have but I mowed with it a few times like that until I figured out something. I probably used up a lot of the life of the bearign already unfortunately. I pulled the whole thing out and cut the driveshaft down like 1/4" and that gave me enough room that the throwout arm comes completely loose of the bearing. I dont think any of that had anything to do with the spring however.

To be honest I didnt really do it because I wanted the toughest clutch on the planet or anything, I thought it was just an easy solution at the time because it came as a complete assembled unit and I didnt know anything about cub clutches. So I thought it would be an easier bolt on that trying to buy all the individual cub parts and putting it together (in the end it wasnt probably any easier, and I am now quite familiar with all the working of the clutch!). But the main thing was it was actually cheaper for most all the parts compared to stock replacement. I don't really need the extra weight of the red spring, which is also why I told em to back it off on the adjustable collar, its just the lightest spring they had. At the time there really wasnt a downside that I could see, except for the extra work pushing the spring, which the way mine is set is really nothing.
 
Tristan: Have you ever posted pictures of your 30 ft3 cart? I remember you pondering the possible replacements for the plastic cart, but I don't remember the resolution. I have a plastic one, and even though I've hauled wood in it, I can tell that it really wasn't built for that kind of duty.
 
I`am having a problem steering my 129 with the loader bucket full of ground. I `am think power steering mod as I have the parts. Charlie suggested tri rib tires, He said they would steer much easier than the tractor ag tires I have on the front now. Now I see two ply tires for sale and have a set on my 1961 Original , but will a two ply tire hold up the weight my loader will have with a full bucket?? Can I get a tri rib in a four ply ?
1a_scratchhead.gif
 
Don T,
Do you have a 3-Turn steering gear in your 129? That would offer some relief. How about a super-steer front axle?
The axle would be a good upgrade even if you went to power steering.
I've heard that trailer type front tires run at their rated (higher) pressure offer the best tire for a loader.
I can't immagine that a tri rib would turn well on sod. I picture pizza cutter going through pizza.

I've followed your posts because I'm building a wide frame based loader tractor. Thanks for posting with your experiences.
 
Don, I agree with Rick. If you don't have a steering upgrade of some sort I'd go with the higher pressure/capicity trailer tire.
 
Got some seat time yesterday performing ground engaging with the 149 hydro, Everyone needs a hydro lift like the 149, gotta love lifting implements with one finger.

everyone have a good day
249050.jpg

249051.jpg

249052.jpg
 
Hi Guys,

I bought a 62' Cub Cadet Orig. It is my first tractor. I would really like to put a small vertical exhaust stack on it.
I am looking for some direction on parts and instillation. Can it be done without any machining or welding? Where do you recommend buying a small stack? Some pictures I have seen show threaded pipe maneuvering out of the block (That doesn't look to hard), but how would I attach the manifold to the block? Any help would be appreciated.
-Scott
 
Jeff... unfortunately my 129 has the ol hand lift but the spring makes it a little nicer with my #2 tiller. Got a junk 1450 that whenever I get around to it I'm going to try and swap the hydro/lift over.

Jeremiah... you sir must have a good memory. I don't even remember when I talked about it but I guess I havent been online here for long enough I forgot about it. Yeah this spring I built the new cart/trailer. The 12.5 poly cart while nice for toting light stuff around the house, just wasnt up to the rigors of logging in the woods. The wheels were too small, plastic cracking, capacity too small, and too balanced - while going uphill the weight would shift to the back and unload my drive tires. It really messed with my traction on hills. Until its finally day, when going over a bump uphill caused the thin metal to flex, and it pulled itself through the dump release. With a full load of rounds in it, it dumped, and when it hit the ground with all that weight it blew the back out of it.

After searching for carts, I realized that none fit all my wants, and many that came close were over $400, some $600-800. Thought I could build one for less so I set out to design the perfect one. I wanted big fat tires for mud and snow, axles shifted further back to put some of the weight on the drive tires, ball hitch, and certain sizing - and big enough to cut my trips into the woods down by at least half. I based the design off from my 6x10 road trailer, just changed the proprtions. My biggest problem was my crappy undersized welder, if I did something liek this again I'd get a bigger one. But I made it work, and I think the welds are fine for off road use.

Here are a couple of the finished shots (well its not 100% done yet, but up and running).


board-post.pl


board-post.pl


I actually have a bunch of pictures in my photobucket but cant display them the way this forum is setup I think. But you can see a quick slideshow of the construction here... http://s903.photobucket.com/albums/ac235/kc2ebm/cub_cadet/trailer/?action=view&current=130d7831.pbw

It works pretty darn good. I hauled a load of green oak (I mean red oak that was freshly cut) and that load was heavy, I was able to make it up the hill that I really struggled with the much smaller poly dump cart, and was even bogging the engine down without breaking traction. The front end was getting a little light though, time to start thinking of some ballast weight.
 
Back
Top