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Archive through November 14, 2017
- Thread starter fcurrier
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Frank, you missed it...
David S,
Ouch! Was the flywheel lose on the crank or was the key just sheared? Boy, things really got galled up on your shaft.
If the connecting pin on your other crankshaft is within spec for your existing rod, you s/b good to go with the swap. Hopefully with the piston at TDC, there will be room to remove the crank and install the new one. I believe you s/b able to do that by rotating the shaft by about 30-45 degrees w/the rod end cap removed.
I would recommend taking it to a local engine shop to have them mic the new shaft and existing rod to see if they will still be within the recommended specs. You can find the recommended specs here. http://cubfaq.com/enginespecs.html
Ouch! Was the flywheel lose on the crank or was the key just sheared? Boy, things really got galled up on your shaft.
If the connecting pin on your other crankshaft is within spec for your existing rod, you s/b good to go with the swap. Hopefully with the piston at TDC, there will be room to remove the crank and install the new one. I believe you s/b able to do that by rotating the shaft by about 30-45 degrees w/the rod end cap removed.
I would recommend taking it to a local engine shop to have them mic the new shaft and existing rod to see if they will still be within the recommended specs. You can find the recommended specs here. http://cubfaq.com/enginespecs.html
Ron, I got it all apart. I'm assuming the bolt was not torqued to spec. last time someone (NOT ME!!) had it apart. What else could it be??
It's will be on the way to the machine shop tomorrow along w/used crank and flywheel.
could not get the crank out w/o removing the piston.
Sooo.... may as well go the whole route now, at the very least a hone job and new rod if need be. I have an o/s rod in stock. Just picked up a used flywheel cup this AM.
It's will be on the way to the machine shop tomorrow along w/used crank and flywheel.
could not get the crank out w/o removing the piston.
Sooo.... may as well go the whole route now, at the very least a hone job and new rod if need be. I have an o/s rod in stock. Just picked up a used flywheel cup this AM.
HARRY:
The numbers on those lenses...
Bargman SAE-P2-A-75
The numbers on those lenses...
Bargman SAE-P2-A-75
With an evening outside temperature of 45 degrees, I took the 1250 out for, what I think to be, its final cruise of the season. When I parked it in its place in the garage, I turned off the gas feed at the carburetor, and let it sputter to a stop. Before I went out for the ride, I added Stabil and a dash of MMO to the gas. I think that should stabilize the fuel for the winter.
A friend advised me to change the oil now, to get the corrosive elements out of the engine before storage. I have never heard of this. My past practice has been to change the oil soon after spring start-up. Are there any opinions as to which option is better?
A friend advised me to change the oil now, to get the corrosive elements out of the engine before storage. I have never heard of this. My past practice has been to change the oil soon after spring start-up. Are there any opinions as to which option is better?
Brian, if you're going to change the oil first thing in the spring anyway, I think it would be better to change it now to get rid of any acidic/corrosive contaminants. IMO
mgwin
Well-known member
Brian,
I am assuming you are using non-ethanol gas in the cub you are storing for the winter.
I have seen regular gas go bad in as little as 30 days!
I am assuming you are using non-ethanol gas in the cub you are storing for the winter.
I have seen regular gas go bad in as little as 30 days!
hydroharry
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David - yup, that's what I figured. The Bargman SAE-P2-A-75 are the slightly later replacement version lens. I believe the originals were Lens-O-Lite or Lite-O-Lens SAE-P1-A-70. The 70 indicated the year the lens was certified. For some reason Bargman either changed the lens or re-certified it in 75.
Oh well, Charlie got after me before for these worthless posts - but I still think it's interesting. It's really hard to find the "70" code lens. The 70 code would have been used on the 1x8/9 series, and possibly the early QL series units. I'd sure like to find a nice pair of 70's for my 169.
Brian - well, thinking about what you described, it sure would seem better to go ahead and change the oil now. I don't see why it would then be necessary in the spring as long as you don't run the engine now.
Oh well, Charlie got after me before for these worthless posts - but I still think it's interesting. It's really hard to find the "70" code lens. The 70 code would have been used on the 1x8/9 series, and possibly the early QL series units. I'd sure like to find a nice pair of 70's for my 169.
Brian - well, thinking about what you described, it sure would seem better to go ahead and change the oil now. I don't see why it would then be necessary in the spring as long as you don't run the engine now.
Harry,
hydroharry
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Well Charlie - looks like I can't sneak nothing by you
Frank - that can't be quite right about Kraig's theory. I don't run my 169 often, maybe couple times a year, and that only amounts to about 2-3 hours at most. I always check the oil before I start it and it looks just like brand new oil. I've got into the habit of checking it again when I shut it off, and that's when it looks all black.
I'm guessing the carbon/yuck/black stuff is settling to the bottom of the pan and the dipstick doesn't quite reach that point. All I'm getting at is that over an extended time most of the crud will sink to the bottom of the pan. You might think it's just had a fresh oil change but it really hasn't. I hate to say this, but I've gone 3-4 years a few times on the same oil. And I know it probably ain't the best because unburnt gasoline can contaminate the oil and really thin the oil, but with the carb mounted on the side I don't think it happens much. I kinda go by how the oil looks on the dipstick and since it's sticking on the stick not running off like it got really thin.
UNDER EDIT
Ron - are you saying you drain your oil and leave it empty over the winter, then add oil in the spring?
I'd be afraid to do that. Every once in awhile my son might move the tractor and he won't check anything before he does that.
Frank - that can't be quite right about Kraig's theory. I don't run my 169 often, maybe couple times a year, and that only amounts to about 2-3 hours at most. I always check the oil before I start it and it looks just like brand new oil. I've got into the habit of checking it again when I shut it off, and that's when it looks all black.
I'm guessing the carbon/yuck/black stuff is settling to the bottom of the pan and the dipstick doesn't quite reach that point. All I'm getting at is that over an extended time most of the crud will sink to the bottom of the pan. You might think it's just had a fresh oil change but it really hasn't. I hate to say this, but I've gone 3-4 years a few times on the same oil. And I know it probably ain't the best because unburnt gasoline can contaminate the oil and really thin the oil, but with the carb mounted on the side I don't think it happens much. I kinda go by how the oil looks on the dipstick and since it's sticking on the stick not running off like it got really thin.
UNDER EDIT
Ron - are you saying you drain your oil and leave it empty over the winter, then add oil in the spring?
I'd be afraid to do that. Every once in awhile my son might move the tractor and he won't check anything before he does that.
I prefer to drop the oil in the fall after right after parking it for the winter while the motor is still warm. That way you get out more of the small particles/contaminants in the oil rather than letting them settle to the bottom during the long winters nap and become sludge. In the spring fill with fresh oil.
While cleaning up leaves/mowing grass in an area cemetery, the last official act for my CC 149 for 2017, the mower deck came off the sub-frame several times. Didn't matter if it was on the level or sidehill, traveling fast or slow, it just came off. Will be investigating that later today, but suspect something is worn enough that the spring pins aren't doing their job.
snicklas
Well-known member
Wayne,
Which deck do you have?
Which deck do you have?
hydroharry
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Wayne - I'd guess either your sub-frame got twisted/bent, or one of the springs in the spring pin latches is broke.
It's a 44" deck, 3 mower blades. The latch pins are good, springs and all. The only thing I found, & I'm not positive, but the latching mechanism that locks the sub-frame in place may have released enough to allow part of the sub-frame to not be latched into place. I'll give it another try in a day or so.
Hi everyone
Can someone tell me where I can get part 715-3008 coiled pin? I tried Ace, homedepot and <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font>.
Thanks
Can someone tell me where I can get part 715-3008 coiled pin? I tried Ace, homedepot and <font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font><font color="ff0000">•</font>.
Thanks
