Archive through November 14, 2016

[digger]

Reposting for Levi W.

Ldweaver

Hello everyone I'm new to this forum. I just got a ih cub cadet 1450 that someone has replaced the engine with a Kohler K301. I want to put a bigger 14hp Kohler engine in it but I'm not sure if it will work. The motor I have is Kohler K321 A. Does anyone know if this will fit? I'm unable to load pictures of the Identification tags so I will just write them out. Engine tag says K321 A. (Serial) 2075054 (Spec No) 6099A. Tractor numbers are (serial no) 2050660U572111. It is a 1450 hydrostatic with hydraulic lift. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[jwiggins]

Austin,
Kraig & KenTucK Nailed it,,,
Also Doug and Brian hit ur camber issue to a tee,,,

While ur at it,,,

If the new axle pivot and "channel squeeze" don't resolve all your "pLay and camber" woe's,,,,

Maybe another few possible things to consider:

Raise Front of Tractor
•
Pull Front Wheels, Both Spindles, tie rod & drag
•
Install New Wheel Bearings
•
Install New or check for worn / sloppy Spindle Bolt Spacers
•
Put 4 new ends on both rod & drag, leaving locking nuts loose
•
Install the
Thrust Bearing Steering Upgraded Kit w/ Shot of grease to gearbox
•
Install spindles
•
Install tie rod, w/ locking nuts loose
•
Install drag link to left spindle/knuckle
•
Install wheels check tires pressure, grease spindles & bearings
•
Drop Tractor
•
Now w/ straight edges, tape measure, framing squares, protractor, stick rule, lasers or any combination of the the above, set a slight "toe in",,, front of front tires "about" 1/8" closer to each other than rear of front tires,,,
•
Tighten locking nuts on tie rod
•
Split steering wheel max stroke right/left so steering wheel is straight forward
•
Attach rear section of drag to steering gearbox plate w/ wheels straight forward & steering Wheel centered, tighten drag locking nuts
•
Fire up the k321 drive on highway or state route Full Speed WOT,,,
•
Return to garage, make any necessary adjustments
•
Stick a fork in it,
•
It's No "Super Steer" setup, but above steps got my 149 steering good-n-tight and driving straight!!!

•
If still a lil to pink for your liking, check spindles for bends & bolt holes for slop, check axle for wear in spacer bore, considere a possible steering box Rebuild
•

 

[kweaver]

Jason - Dang it man you're trying to make him work for it !

 

[jwiggins]

Channel squeeze requires most of that "work" anyway,

 

[mhomrighausen]

Vince T. Very nice score that you've brought home.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jason,

Austin, one other thing, if the holes in the axle for the spindles are worn and your tires have too much camber (tires lean too much) you can add shims between the spindle caps and the axle casting to help tighten it up a bit. There's usually plenty of space for shims there because if the axle is worn enough in the spindle hole, the surface of the axle casting is worn as well. Hopefully this makes sense.

 

[vthomley]

Must be 1450 week. My new 1450 has play in the steering. I'll look at it sometime in the next few days, or months...probably months.

 

[acurtis]

I have a UD-6 for my Original (the one I'm keeping) Unfortunately over the years the pin that secures the driveshaft has cut a groove which permits the driveshaft to spin freely. It will not engage. I am attempting to post a photo. Any suggestions for a fix. I was thinking of laying a weld then smooth it with a die grinder

 

[hydroharry]

Geez, missed out on a lot and no time to try and catch up so I'll just jump in on this page.

Charlie - thanks for reposting for Levi Weaver.

Levi W - 1st off, welcome to the best Cub Cadet Forum out there. 1450's are one of my favorites. Now, we're gonna need more info about your current 1450 engine and very likely more about the K321A you want to install.

Your 1450 is a Hydrostatic drive tractor that came standard with Hydraulic Lift. The original engine it was built with would be a Kohler K321AQS. Since you're saying the current engine is a K301 I can't say much about it except that it's 12hp. For the K301 to be a correct fit it would have to be a K301AQS. Same goes for the K321A you say you want to install. The 3 letters (AQS) after the K321 are identifiers of the engine features. The letter "A" indicates "Special Oil Pan". The letter "Q" indicates "Quiet" series, and the letter "S" indicates "Electric Start".

I don't know the Spec No. that is correct for a K321AQS to be used in a Model 1450 but it's also important since it's a code that identifies the correct crankshaft output size and other design details.

Your 1450 came standard with an Electric PTO. If you currently have a manual PTO then someone has changed it. At the same time they likely changed the starter from the small integrated starter to the older style "Starter/Generator" which runs on a belt.

So we need more details and maybe even pics of your current engine and the K321A you want to drop in.

Austin - hey I think Jason forgot to mention something in responding to your camber question (leaning front tires). Your profile shows a 149 so I assume that's the tractor we're discussing. I think Jason switch his front wheels after I pointed this out to him but not actually sure if he did.

The 149 is a wide frame and IH changed the front wheels so the "wide offset" was on the inside of the wheel (the earlier narrow frame tractors had the wide offset on the outside). You could reverse your front wheels and put the wide offset outside just to see if it has the "appearance" to fix your problem. You can't use the tractor that way because the valve stem will be on the inside of the wheel and it will hit the spindle as you drive and eventually tear it out.

If you like the "appearance" then you can either find a set of narrow frame front wheels and swap your tires over - or you can get advice from Jason about welding up the valve stem hole and drilling a new one on the wide offset side of the wheel.

 

[aewald]

Harry - I was talking about one tire being more out than the other one. Looked at it again didnt see it, but I will have to look into the spacers, as I want to put tri ribs but dont want to wear one side out faster than the other.

 

[eplavney]

It has been many years since HydroHarry and others helped me with rebuilding my hydrostatic transmission. I hope I'm in the right section on the site. My issues now with 1968 125 are the spider gears. The rear diff is about done. I've searched this site, the internet, B Miller's site and I can't find info on spider gears. Are my only options now 1. Finding another rear end? 2. Dana 25 diff from a car? I'd rather not destroy the rear end clearing snow in a month. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

[nbextermueller]

Eric, what's wrong with them? Are the axle splines bad? Are they too loose and making noise? Chipped or broken?

Regardless of the problem, you just need new spider gears or a new "used" center differential as a whole. Pop yours out, pop used in, push snow...

Others here should give a better description. But you don't need a whole rearend.

 

[sblunier]

Listen to Nic, get used center section, hydro, gear, either or, and swap it out.....not hard to do, should be a dime a dozen in bone yard or on pullers shop floor....

 

[eplavney]

Thanks Nic and Steve, yeah the spiders are way too loose and make noise. I'll start searching for a boneyard. Are you aware of any in the Cleveland Ohio area? Thanks again!

 

[eplavney]

I see a Mowergraveyard in Jamestown PA. 2 hours from me. They have 2 used in stock $30. Has anyone bought parts from them? I don't want to buy something only slightly better than what I have now... Any insights? If I buy one, would I possibly have to shim the spider gears?

 

[danderson]

Eric-There's a guy in Shreve, Ohio that has a lot of stuff. I can e-mail his phone number if you like.

 

[hydroharry]

Austin - Ooh, so it's only 1 front wheel that's leaning to much. It could be just the nut/bolt have come loose. Easy enough to check, just jack her up and see. Can't recall what the torque spec is on the nut but it's in the manual and pretty tight. If after you tighten it the spindle won't turn then you have an obvious spacer problem. Hopefully you'll be able to remove the spacer without to much problem. If it's been that way for a while it could be froze in and definitely need a new one. Gotta keep those spindles greased so the spacer will turn.

If you can get the spacer out without ruining it, I don't really recommend grinding off a little of the top of the axle but it can be done so the spacer is long enough again. Really better to get a new spacer and probably 2 of them while you're at it so you can do both sides. If it happened on one side likely getting close on the other as well.

And since you're doing all this you need to make sure you're wheel bearings are in good shape, well greased, AND most importantly that the end play is within spec, or you'll just ruin the bearings and maybe even the spindle shaft.

All this along with squeezing the front axle and super steer fix that was recommended by some of the best on here.

Andrew Curtis - I'm waiting to hear someone's recommendation for your UD-6 problem.

 

[jwiggins]

I haven't gone through the Kohler manual's for any spec "differences" concerning Levi powering 1450 w/ K321A, sometimes you can research till blue in the face and still not find the exact info needed especially when swapping parts and model #'s around,,,,,

Hydro's mention of possible compatibility issues or "differences" got me curious and I was thinking that sometimes researching along w/ a quick post to see if anyone out there has achieved success in a similar scenario would prove information that could be very helpful!!!!

Just for a reference my April 1974 149 Kohler info:

K321A
Serial 6113020
Spec # 60166d
149 (serial) 2050047U508300

--------------------------------------------------------

Levi's engine info for questions concerning compatibility w/ 1450,,,

K321 A.
(Serial) 2075054
(Spec No) 6099A
1450 (serial) 2050660U572111

 

[mgonitzke]

1450 uses a K321AQS, so the air filter, tinwork, and throttle linkage are different. The "A" may not have the tapped holes for the electric PTO. The "A" uses a starter/generator and the "AQS" has a stator/rectifier charging system and a bendix drive starter.

The "A" will "fit" but it won't work without changing a lot of stuff. If the existing engine runs, I'd just leave it alone until you find the correct engine. You aren't going to notice 2 less horsepower most of the time...

 

[nbextermueller]

Eric, $30 is a fair price. You could also post in The Wanted section on this website. You will also need a new rear cover gasket and some gear oil or HyTran as mentioned earlier. Personally I would fill it with hi Tran. If you're going to be ordering a gasket you may as well look for a few shims. Just in case. You can shop at any of the advertisers above. CCSspecialties may be the best first stop.