Archive through November 12, 2010

[wshytle]

I'm still dealing with the most recent 129, mostly the engine. Is there a spacer behind the basket pulley? I thought I remembered there being one but I can't find it in the parts look-up. I can make it but I don't know the length (if it in fact exists). If not, is there a measurement for proper install on the crank? It has to be in line with the starter/gen for the belt to align.

I can't believe the paint on this tractor. It appears to have been painted last week once I get through all the dirt and grime. The flywheel is even painted IH yellow.

Here's what I have to deal with on the crank. Any suggestions will be appreciated. The hub was welded to the basket pulley so I'm using another pulley altogether. It looks like a new one so I'm hoping I can just go back with a new key and locktite on the set screw.

This is the story of my life here. I just wanted to get this tractor back and running. Now I will be waiting on engine seals, the pan gasket and a few other things before I can get back to the twenty other things I have been working on.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ronald B.-

Electrolysis or chemical paint stripper.

Wayne-

I would just line up the basket pulley with the S/G.

That crank isn't good. Unfortunately, the damage is on the driving side of the crank. Here's one thought: Get a longer key and grind/file down the top of part of it where the bearing and locking collar rides, letting the rest of it stick through under the PTO bearing and locking collar where the keyway is still good. That make sense?

 

[kshultz]

I picked up a power angle blade yesterday and was wondering.
The blade came off of a 1650.
Will it fit my 982? Or do I need to get a different sub-frame?
Thanks.

 

[wshytle]

Matt-

That's a good idea about the longer key. Do you remember a spacer behind the basket pulley? The one I worked with recently looked like a napkin ring. I'm guessing the one I dealt with was added by a po but it's a good idea here I think because of the weak keyway. That way there will be a "stop" both ways for the pulley itself keeping it somewhat aligned. Any thoughts?

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - I've had the PTO basket/SG pulley spin on the hub on a K301 before, had to remove & weld the pulley/basket to the hub. They're just crimped or staked on and can come loose. I welded the hub on my K321 when I rebuilt it.

The worn keyway on the crankshaft, MATT has a good idea with the longer key. The crankshaft is cast iron, I don't recommend welding. The crank on my 321 was worn worse than that one so I used another crank Wyatt Compton gave me, along with a longer key. All the power the engine can produce frequently goes thru that key, the longer the key the better.

 

[mstetar]

wayne, i dont think you can put a longer key in there because of the bearing locking collar. i had a 106 with a shaft like that, my friend worked in a machine shop and he cut a keyway on the opposite side for me.

now onto my next topic, i was thinking about putting a linear actuator on my plow this year to make it pivot automatically, has anyone ever tried this?

 

[mgonitzke]

Matt S.-

I don't think you understood my post. The key would have to be ground/filed down where the bearing goes, making it a 'stepped' key.

I don't think a linear actuator will last long angling a plow. The gears will probably strip the first time you catch the blade on something.

Wayne-

I've never seen a spacer behind a basket pulley before.

 

[jdudding]

Has anyone took a 44a mowing deck and made a 44c mowing deck I got a buddy that has a good 44a and I would like to put one on my 1806 cub cadet.Thanks,Joey.

 

[thoffman]

Does this tire tread on this ashtray look familiar??

 

[thoffman]