Archive through November 12, 2010

[ljones]

This pic came out of the 122 opperator manual,why is the seat different, and why does it have yellow footrests?

 

[ljones]

Thanks for the info Matt.

 

[jdbuckert]

Marty,

I'm still working on it. The money just isn't there yet. A sign of the times I guess.

 

[cmize]

Hey Guys, still issues with my hydro. I have a question. What happens if you have too much oil in your the hydrolic system. Can it put the system under too much pressure and cause the bogging down that I am having?

 

[digger]

Chad M.
There's oil in the rear end, not water. That's what it's hydraulic and not hydrolic.

There's a reason for the fill plug on the rear cover. That's the level the Hytran is supposed to be at.
Pull the plug, let the excess run out and put the plug back in and see.

 

[mgonitzke]

Chad-

If there was too much fluid in there, it likely would have spewed the excess out of the breather. Pressure can't build up in there anyway unless the breather is clogged.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT, CHAD - I agree with MATT, don't think over-filling a hydro rearend would cause it to bog the engine unless it was competely full, then as heat caused the oil to expand it would force it out the breather as MATT said, or the cork gasket, or axle oil seals. And unless you tipped the tractor completely on its nose I don't think you can get it even close to that full.

CHARLIE - I found that company letter about CC replacement short blocks interesting, by May '63 people were rebuilding the K161's in their '61 & '62 Originals. And if dealer's cost was Twenty Bucks, wonder how much it actually cost Kohler to make them? I'd guess between two and three Dollars, since they doubled their money selling to IH, and IH Parts doubled their money selling to the dealers.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Chad M. You keep pointing to the hydrostatic transmission as the culprit of all your "bogging down" problems. Now Grasshopper, I haven't kept up with all the postings that you have done about your tractor and it's troubles. You never post any pictures showing the governor linkage, hydro linkage, or anything that could possibly be the trouble. QUIT blaming the hydro pump unless you're willing to take it apart and check into it. On the botton of this post you will notice little CLICK HERE for troubles with your hydro. Study that manual and you will see that there is nothing on a hydro bogging down section. I highly doubt that your hydro is causing the "bogging down" and recommend that you start looking elsehwere. Check such things as your electric pto clutch wiring and some other none obvious places that one wouldn't normally think of. Summing up.... start thinking outside of the kitty litter box. I am NOT picking on you. You've stated nothing of your mechanical abilities. If you don't have a camera and can't post pictures that is okay and understandable. If you can take pictures and can't resize then ask someone to resize them for you. Just please quit blaming the hydro pump.

 

[wshytle]

Marlin-

God bless the hydro pump. I agree with you completely.

I removed the engine from the newest 129 and the flywheel was completely loose. The nut was all the way off and this engine still ran. The po cranked it and I immediately flagged him to cut the engine when I heard the noise. We pushed the tractor onto the trailer and I'm glad. This was the reason the screen was loose even though it didn't break the aluminum cup to which it is attached. I found one of the tiny screws that holds the screen beside the sparkplug. The rest are MIA. The basket pulley was loose as well. Whoever put this engine together didn't pay a lot of attention to what they were doing. The flywheel is nicely painted IH yellow as well as the engine housing inside and out. The grenade gear on the bottom was still fine but the upper gear was shaking on the shaft. Both came out. Almost every gasket I dealt with had one side "sealed" with silicone. This means a lot of gasket cutting. I will go ahead and replace the seals the rebuilder overlooked too. The front and back mains both leak. I haven't even taken the head off yet but imagine the gasket there will need replacing too. The spark plug has been "fixed" with a helicoil. It's amazing how a nonsmoking engine can have so much wrong.

The good news is the crank wasn't "buggered" and the keyway is still intact. I have all the necessary parts to put it back together so hopefully it will be running again tomorrow evening.

Whoever painted this tractor meant to do a good job but by painting the hydro pump fins tells me something....? The engine fins were painted too. At least I'm not dealing with a lot of rust. Everytime I clean a greasy part it comes out shining.

This might just turn out to be a fine, good looking 129 once the grime is gone and the bolts all tightened.

 

[jbliler]

Charlie,,, got any of those nos 7 hp in stock? Could afford one at that price. Mine is a story of "how long can it last???" Already 30 over and belled out at the bottom.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Wayne S. Your engine reminds me of the time many years ago a neighbor kid bought an F20 to antique tractor pull with. He had the valves ground and when he reinstalled the head he Permatexed both sides of the head gasket.

Right now I am chilling all over. I left work after two hours this morning with a nice flu bug. Trying to keep warm and fight the sour stomach feeling by trying to figure out Chad's Cub troubles. We had lots of rain and wind yesterday and chills and wind today. It seems that LOT of people are getting sick here lately. Too yucky out to take the mower off the 125 and get things ready for winter snow removal.

 

[aschumacher]

Dennis F. RE: $20 short blocks. If you expand the screen and get a new pair of 'peepers' you'll notice that the replacement blocks were $70.20cost and $93.60retail. A nice price now-a-days but my first job in mid 60's paid only $90/wk. That could have been tough back then.

 

[dfrisk]

Allen - I stand corrected, yep $70.20. The letter looks "mimeographed" just like back in school, all the tests were printed that way, didn't care for the process then either. And cleaning my glasses helped too!

Guess I had a "Good Job" towards the late 60's/early '70's. Working for the neighbor doing fieldwork for $2/hr minus SS of 4-5%. I could make $100-$120/week if the weather cooperated after summer break started. It was tough juggling between working for him AND Dad till Dad quit farming fall of '72.

 

[mschairer]

Hi: Any instructions / Pictures out there of a Unicorn Splitter? I have NO IDEA how to put this thing together. H-E-L-P!!! Mark

 

[digger]

Mark S.
You are playing with us ain't ya?
There's only 5 pieces to it.

 

[digger]

I checked your profile, I guess your not playing with us.
CLICK HERE

 

[lhinds]

Chad Mize. Did you tune the carb. on your cub acording to the operators manual or just set the idle and hi screws to the recomended setting? The factory setting is a starting point to get it running. Read the manual and set the governors correctly then tune the carb. acording to the manual and i think this will solve your problem.

 

[mbounds]

Mark S: To actually use the Unicorn Splitter, you will need a scissors jack to lift the wheel with the splitting screw just barely off the ground and wheel chocks to keep the tractor in place.... I've got one and have split wood with it...Works great but: Warning! Make sure that the wood/logs you are splitting are longer than the radius of the wheel to the ground!! That way you never get a whirling short log that will break a couple of arms or legs for you...

I hope I don't have to mention the common sense precaution that you <u>never</u> wear long flowing clothing, shirts, ties, etc., that the screw can get hold of.

Myron B

 

[rberg]

What is the eastest way and safest to remove paint from the parts of my 122 other than having them sand blasted or hand sanded.

 

[fcurrier]

Electrolysis.
OK inside. A little late to set up an outside system up there.