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Archive through November 11, 2010
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Hello all. I'm just joining the forum, and I'm looking at buying an Original. It has the deck, but the fenders are wrong. Looks like they've been cut off. It's running, but you have to hotwire it to get it started. Anybody know what this might be worth? I have looked around and fenders just don't seem to be out there. Is $300 too far out of line?
mgwin
Well-known member
Jared,
Welcome to the forum!!
"What is it worth?" usually is frowned upon on this site. One reason is because of the many issues that can affect the price. Some things (issues)to consider: is it all original?, does everything work?, what would it take to get it to top notch shape?, there are many factors to consider. After saying all this, the $300 doesn't sound too bad. Pictures are very helpful too. Also, it's hard to price someone else's stuff. You just have to use your judgement.
Welcome to the forum!!
"What is it worth?" usually is frowned upon on this site. One reason is because of the many issues that can affect the price. Some things (issues)to consider: is it all original?, does everything work?, what would it take to get it to top notch shape?, there are many factors to consider. After saying all this, the $300 doesn't sound too bad. Pictures are very helpful too. Also, it's hard to price someone else's stuff. You just have to use your judgement.
Jared--- Wiring is fixable. Only so many cubs out there. An original is a nice find. Hope the engine is in fair shape. Be real glad the deck is there. I have seen more fenders for sale than deck setups. Still do not have a deck for mine yet.
Hey Guys, Another update this time with a pic. Thanks to all who have helped me try to troubleshoot this issue with my 1450 that I have included in the previous posts below. I have eliminated the engine tonight. I manually overrode the governor tonight and it did not fix the problem with the engine bogging down when the transmission is under a load. Furthermore the picture I am including has a picture of what I found on the top of the hydro. The right check valve (from the drivers seat) is seeping oil out the hole in the top surface of the valve. This was only after running it for 5 min or less in 50 deg weather. I am convinced of my theory that the transmission is what is malfunctioning causing the engine to stall. What does the oil seeping out the valve mean. Please see the picture. Does anyone concure with my diagnosis of this? Is it time to replace the hydro pump? Thanks again,
Chad
By Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 07:50 am:
Chad, My 782 does the same kind of bogging every now and again. Usually when I attempt to take off quickly. It doesn't do it all the time, and its random at best. The sudden load confuses the engine for a moment.
The cause is the govenor along with carb settings on a well worn engine. I obtained this tractor becuase the PO couldn't get the governor set right and after literally crashing it into the nieghbors Suburban, it was passed on. (after 20 minutes in my garage, it was purring like a kitten. sorry PO, but thanks for the nice tractor.)
It's the govenor pulling it down... and reguardless of the carb being at "factory settings" maybe they should be adjusted to compensate for the years of use. I bet if you bypassed the govenor for a while it would never do it. (becareful not to over rev it of course.)
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:44 pm:
Could the check valves have anything to do with this problem? Just a reminder that this tractor did sit for 10 years before I got it running again.
Thanks
Chad
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:06 pm:
It also has a brand new coil and condenser on it. I have practically eliminated the engine as the culprit.
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:04 pm:
Yeah, Carb has been rebuilt and is set to factory adjustments. Then engine does not give me any indications of any issues. It pulls just like it should when the transmission is not bogging down. I have no reason to suspect the engine. Governor and everything are functioning properly as far as I can tell.
By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:02 pm:
Chad M.
One sure way to find out if it's engine or hydro is to remove the drive shaft and fire it up.
My 1450 did that once and I also had a 149 do it.
Both times I changed the coil and it fixed it. I got LUCKY!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 10:57 pm:
Are you sure the timing, carb, and governor are all set correctly on the engine?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original, 582, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 10:45 pm:
Follow-up: A month or so ago I posted regarding my hydro transmission on my 1450 causing my engine to bog down and nearly stall. The two suggestions were 1) Change the fluid and filter to Hytran Ultra. Which I did but it did not fix the problem. 2) Do a trunion repair. Regarding the trunion, It is notched and needs to be repaired. I know this will fix the speed variation but I do not think it will fix what is causing the transmission to seemingly bind and bog down the motor. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is the hydro overheating? It does seem to take time for it to get warm before the problem starts to occur. Thanks!
Chad
Chad
By Nic Bextermueller (Nbextermueller) on Tuesday, November 09, 2010 - 07:50 am:
Chad, My 782 does the same kind of bogging every now and again. Usually when I attempt to take off quickly. It doesn't do it all the time, and its random at best. The sudden load confuses the engine for a moment.
The cause is the govenor along with carb settings on a well worn engine. I obtained this tractor becuase the PO couldn't get the governor set right and after literally crashing it into the nieghbors Suburban, it was passed on. (after 20 minutes in my garage, it was purring like a kitten. sorry PO, but thanks for the nice tractor.)
It's the govenor pulling it down... and reguardless of the carb being at "factory settings" maybe they should be adjusted to compensate for the years of use. I bet if you bypassed the govenor for a while it would never do it. (becareful not to over rev it of course.)
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:44 pm:
Could the check valves have anything to do with this problem? Just a reminder that this tractor did sit for 10 years before I got it running again.
Thanks
Chad
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:06 pm:
It also has a brand new coil and condenser on it. I have practically eliminated the engine as the culprit.
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:04 pm:
Yeah, Carb has been rebuilt and is set to factory adjustments. Then engine does not give me any indications of any issues. It pulls just like it should when the transmission is not bogging down. I have no reason to suspect the engine. Governor and everything are functioning properly as far as I can tell.
By Charlie "Digger" Proctor (Cproctor) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 11:02 pm:
Chad M.
One sure way to find out if it's engine or hydro is to remove the drive shaft and fire it up.
My 1450 did that once and I also had a 149 do it.
Both times I changed the coil and it fixed it. I got LUCKY!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Every Cub has beauty but not everyone sees it."
By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 10:57 pm:
Are you sure the timing, carb, and governor are all set correctly on the engine?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Original, 582, 682 w/ Kwik-Way loader, 782, 782D, 1872 My Cub Site
By Chad Mize (Cmize) on Monday, November 08, 2010 - 10:45 pm:
Follow-up: A month or so ago I posted regarding my hydro transmission on my 1450 causing my engine to bog down and nearly stall. The two suggestions were 1) Change the fluid and filter to Hytran Ultra. Which I did but it did not fix the problem. 2) Do a trunion repair. Regarding the trunion, It is notched and needs to be repaired. I know this will fix the speed variation but I do not think it will fix what is causing the transmission to seemingly bind and bog down the motor. Does anyone have any suggestions? Is the hydro overheating? It does seem to take time for it to get warm before the problem starts to occur. Thanks!
Chad
Marty--
I understand about that. I'm just looking for a ballpark estimate. I'm a newbie to Cub Cadets, and although 300 doesn't seem out of line to me, I just want to get the opinion of the experts out there. I'm just trying to keep from getting taken for a ride.
Jerry--
I've seen some decks out there, but only one set of fenders. Maybe I'm just not as deep into the Cub Cadet culture yet. Could you point me toward a few of these fender sets you've seen floating around? lol
I understand about that. I'm just looking for a ballpark estimate. I'm a newbie to Cub Cadets, and although 300 doesn't seem out of line to me, I just want to get the opinion of the experts out there. I'm just trying to keep from getting taken for a ride.
Jerry--
I've seen some decks out there, but only one set of fenders. Maybe I'm just not as deep into the Cub Cadet culture yet. Could you point me toward a few of these fender sets you've seen floating around? lol
jbaker
Well-known member
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- jeff l baker
Chad the oil is coming from the presure relieif button that should be sticking out on both valves. these buttons when pushed in allow it to free wheel. By the photo it looks like the left one is stuck in. rebuild or replace both of them.
the replace option is easy and usauly cheep. these two valves are most likely your problem.
the replace option is easy and usauly cheep. these two valves are most likely your problem.
Jeff,
Do all the models have that pressure pop button. I have seen others that did not have protruding buttons. See this photo from the faqs http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak1.html. Thanks,
Chad
Do all the models have that pressure pop button. I have seen others that did not have protruding buttons. See this photo from the faqs http://cubfaq.com/hydroleak1.html. Thanks,
Chad
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Those are auto-release valves; they don't have the center button. When they start leaking like that they have to be replaced. You can repair it if you are handy with a lathe.
Chad M.
The new improved design automatic relief valves do not have the breather hole like the old original ones do.
The new improved design automatic relief valves do not have the breather hole like the old original ones do.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff, the later QL tractors had the auto release valves.
jbaker
Well-known member
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- displayname
- jeff l baker
Interesting,,,,,
I never new that, I thought they where all the same.
I have always said that you can learn something new every day if you want to.
any idea of a breakoff date or serial# for the valve style change
I never new that, I thought they where all the same.
I have always said that you can learn something new every day if you want to.
any idea of a breakoff date or serial# for the valve style change
Chad M.
There's no email address in your profile, so no one can email you directly with information, you NEED to put an email address in your profile ASAP.
Well I see you have NOT looked at any of the sponsor buttons above on relief valves!
Let me guess, Partstree, LOL
On the repairing,
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Then click questions 55 and 55A.
There's no email address in your profile, so no one can email you directly with information, you NEED to put an email address in your profile ASAP.
Well I see you have NOT looked at any of the sponsor buttons above on relief valves!
Let me guess, Partstree, LOL
On the repairing,
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Then click questions 55 and 55A.
Lonny Buttke-
I know what you mean but the graves were like that 27 years ago when I moved here. There are small grave sites like that all in the woods all over the south. This site is probably over two hundred years old. I figure it best to leave it be. The fewer people that know the better.
Back on topic...I washed the newest 129 and the paint is in great shape along with the decals. It hasn't been that long since the new paint. I'll start with the engine pulling today. The hydro pump was painted so I might decide to take the fenders off and get that right as well.
I know what you mean but the graves were like that 27 years ago when I moved here. There are small grave sites like that all in the woods all over the south. This site is probably over two hundred years old. I figure it best to leave it be. The fewer people that know the better.
Back on topic...I washed the newest 129 and the paint is in great shape along with the decals. It hasn't been that long since the new paint. I'll start with the engine pulling today. The hydro pump was painted so I might decide to take the fenders off and get that right as well.
WAYNE S. - I know EXACTLY what you're saying about all those old burial grounds down in that part of the US. My Wife has traced one branch of her family back seven generations, pre Revolutionary War era. She was accepted into D.A.R. 1-1/2 yrs ago on her first attempt because of research she's done on our many trips down your way.
There's a couple grave sites we haven't found or seen yet. One cemetary must be really small and just far enough off the highway as to be invisible, or over-grown with lots of brush & trees. The other one we were chased off by the property owner when we asked for permission to to see the site. That's actually against the law, but we didn't press the issue. EVERYONE else we've talked to has been VERY knowledgable and helpful in my Wife's search for information.
Those tombstones actually look in very good shape compared to some I've seen. I kinda agree with Lonny, it looks like you or someone may be keeping the brush cut back which I would suggest continuing doing, but I agree with you about not making it's presence well known. Your local Historical Society knows it's there and has records of who are buried there, their families can find them if they want to.
I liked your comment about being older than Civil War era. Most people we've talked to down in TN & NC consider that "Recent History". Actually SEEING those cemetaries and battle fields make History seem so REAL.
BACK on topic, your lucky you still have a hinge on your 129's hood, I had a piece of heavy conveyor belt bolted in place of the hinge on my 129, the diecast front piece of the hood was all busted and a really sloppy welding job was done to piece it back together, plus a rusty chunk of angle iron was bolted in to reinforce it. Tarp straps were used to hold the hood down and with the flexible hinge had worn out HUGE chunks of the fberglass cowl on the dash. I didn't have a real good CC parts dealer at that time so most of my repair parts came from my scrap buckets, or a hardware store or Farm & Fleet. It wasn't "Original" when I was done but it looked pretty good and ran really well.
There's a couple grave sites we haven't found or seen yet. One cemetary must be really small and just far enough off the highway as to be invisible, or over-grown with lots of brush & trees. The other one we were chased off by the property owner when we asked for permission to to see the site. That's actually against the law, but we didn't press the issue. EVERYONE else we've talked to has been VERY knowledgable and helpful in my Wife's search for information.
Those tombstones actually look in very good shape compared to some I've seen. I kinda agree with Lonny, it looks like you or someone may be keeping the brush cut back which I would suggest continuing doing, but I agree with you about not making it's presence well known. Your local Historical Society knows it's there and has records of who are buried there, their families can find them if they want to.
I liked your comment about being older than Civil War era. Most people we've talked to down in TN & NC consider that "Recent History". Actually SEEING those cemetaries and battle fields make History seem so REAL.
BACK on topic, your lucky you still have a hinge on your 129's hood, I had a piece of heavy conveyor belt bolted in place of the hinge on my 129, the diecast front piece of the hood was all busted and a really sloppy welding job was done to piece it back together, plus a rusty chunk of angle iron was bolted in to reinforce it. Tarp straps were used to hold the hood down and with the flexible hinge had worn out HUGE chunks of the fberglass cowl on the dash. I didn't have a real good CC parts dealer at that time so most of my repair parts came from my scrap buckets, or a hardware store or Farm & Fleet. It wasn't "Original" when I was done but it looked pretty good and ran really well.
Part of the mystery is solved.
I talked to the son(Brad)of the founder T. Allen Pelsue of Morrison-Pelsue company yesterday.
He's going to try and find more information about these things.
They were made after 1962.
He did mention that they at one time sent 12 units to IH for testing, but couldn't remember what the outcome was, as that was a little before his time. But did say he would get back to me.
I talked to the son(Brad)of the founder T. Allen Pelsue of Morrison-Pelsue company yesterday.
He's going to try and find more information about these things.
They were made after 1962.
He did mention that they at one time sent 12 units to IH for testing, but couldn't remember what the outcome was, as that was a little before his time. But did say he would get back to me.
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