Paul B- Which 'pin' are you trying to drive out... the one that holds the bellcrank on the pedal shaft, or the pin that goes between the hydrostat's fixed- and moving- control plates? The former is just an ordinary spi-rol pin, while the latter isn't a pin IIRC... it's a forging or casting. Stuck spi-rols require penetrant ('PB Blaster' is the choice weapon around these parts) while the best removal tool is a pin-driving punch and about a 4lb machinist's hammer. Wear a glove on your non-hammer hand, and mentally prepare yourself for pain, 'cause they can be a real hog. You might hafta work it back-and-forth a few times, and soak it again to get it clean enough to push through. Once it's moving, take a close look at the end that you'll be pushing through the shaft- if it's all flared-out and messed up, take a 4" disk-grinder, die grinder, or dremel with cutoff-tool, and grind/cut-back that pin 'till it's round... otherwise, that @!#$% will get stuck and bend your pin-drift, kick your hammer, and mash your fingers (wear a glove... preferably iron or steel, but leather will be okay, too...). BTW... the spi-rol pin is multiple turns of spring-steel, and they fit tight, so when you hit 'em with a pin and hammer, make sure your pin is seated, centered, and square, and hit it like you MEAN it, otherwise it'll just laugh at you. :-}
Paul D- I bought a pair of Carlisle's Tru-Power series for my 109, and they work nicely. The local place I bought 'em from said that they ship with either the Carlisle brand, or the Titan brand, depending on which shipment came to you, from which mold that day. Same tire, just has two different branding-names, both made by Carlisle, with same materials. Put 6 gallons of Propylene Glycol (RV Antifreeze) and about 60lbs of weights on each wheel, and you'll be ready to pull anything!
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