Archive through November 10, 2008

[dfrisk]

SCOTT - I have a small flywheel K321 in My 72 right now. I mowed a couple times this summer and last when it was in the 80's without a problem. Engine has a bit over 50 hours on it and is just starting to act like the rings are seating in it. I don't pull it real hard when I mow when it's hot, but then I haven't got any way to load it to it's potential anyhow.

 

[rrschmitt]

Joseph D,

The valves are not under pressure with the motor off and there is no need to drain the Hy-Tran to remove them. The valves are identical. I would just remove and replace the one that is leaking.

 

[dtanner]

Well she in and i`am at the coil and no i had to remove the grill to tap the pto basket back to align the starter gen belt. went real nice with the lift.
Hydro vales if it workes leave it alone,, my .02
And who could possible be retired with all these Cubs that all need a little tlc. One Cub one day at a time> later Don T

 

[kmcconaughey]

Kendell, yeah I know.... Starting Killer is priority #1 today after work.

 

[stritle]

Anyone think it was too cold to be out working on Cubs this weekend? I was looking forward to a last run of yard clean up, then setting the 782 up with the snow blower. Then, the temp was only 30.

It's supposed to be 50 next weekend. I think that'll be more outdoor friendly.

 

[klejeune]

Kraig,
You should setup a live webcam for those of us with high speed internet. Except for the smell it would almost be like being there in person.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Keith, if I had a web cam setup I'd try that. I'm going to have to go with a video camera on a tripod and upload any video after the fact.

 

[ccarney]

Art A -

Nice progress on the ol' 100! There is a sense of satisfaction when the rear clutch rollpin comes out and it can split in two, isn't there?

Kraig - You could "test" the Killer Kohler in Spot anytime, if you want to try it in a gearjammer tractor!

 

[dsacksteder]

Okay, so this weekend I took the clutch /driveshaft out of my 128 to put a new friction disk on. I had plates turned a few months back. While I was at it a put 2 1/4" thick washers behind the spring(closest to the trans) to stiffen up the spring. Well its worse than it was before. I have the nut that adjusts the lever out as far as it can without the nut falling off. When plowing the clutch slips the same as always. I never loose traction because the tires never get a chance to spin. Any suggestions?

 

[dtanner]

We you got to love it when you take the time to set up an engine and she starts right up (wow)

I wonder how long i should let her run before i retorque the head ????

 

[fcurrier]

Lookin' good, Don. Hey, don't forget to write down the hours on the hour meter.

 

[dtanner]

Kraiq , your turn,,, Just one question as to how long are you going to run the K before you re torque it. I think i will have to install the tiny tack to see how high she reves , she turns up high and i don`t want to damage all this work.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, I'm going to go by the break in procedure that David Kirk recommended:

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Break-In Procedure for Hot Rod Kohler

1. Fill crankcase with Resolute brand, non-detergent, straight 30 weight oil (available at Fleet Farm). 1.5 quarts required.

2. Start engine and run at a fast idle (approximately 1500 rpm) no load for 30 minutes. Shut down and allow to cool for at least 1 hour.

3. Remove top air baffle, spacer nuts and spacers from studs. Retorque head bolts in proper sequence as given in the Kohler shop manual. Torque to 28-30 foot pounds. Reassemble baffle and remainder of components.

4. Start engine, warm up, and set governor high idle speed to 3900 rpm. Do not exceed 4000 rpm due to safety concerns with stock flywheel.

5. Run the engine as you normally would under loaded conditions, such as mowing. This will allow rings to seat faster. Don’t lug the engine – keep rpm’s above 3000 when under load as this provides the proper cooling air flow. Check the flywheel grass screen often and never allow contaminants to hinder air flow.

6. Change oil after approximately 2 hours of running while engine is still hot. Clean magnetic plug. Metal “whiskers” on plug are normal at this point in the break-in process. Refill with Resolute brand, non-detergent, straight 30 weight oil.

7. Change oil after approximately 3 hours of running while engine is still hot. Clean magnetic plug. Fewer metal particles on drain plug should be observed at this stage of break-in. Refill with any reputable brand of 30 weight automotive detergent mineral oil (no partial or full synthetics at this point). If operated in temperatures below 32 deg F., use 10W-30 multiviscosity oil.

8. Change oil at 20-25 hour intervals. After 40-50 hours have been accrued, engine is considered fully broken-in. At this time, full synthetic oil may be used and is recommended. Use 10W-30 Mobil 1 or Amsoil. Change interval may be increased to 40-50 hours using synthetic. A good rule-of-thumb…when oil starts to darken, change it.

9. Fuel – 89 octane (mid-grade) is a recommended gasoline for most operating conditions. 87 octane can be run in cooler weather. You may run 91 octane without any ill effects, but is a waste of money. It is highly recommended that Marvel Mystery Oil be always added to the fuel in the ratio of .4 fl oz (12 cc’s) per gallon. This ensures that combustion chamber deposits are held down and valve guides/stems are lubricated. There is no need to add MMO to the crankcase oil, especially when using synthetics.
<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[dtanner]

Kraiq thanks a bunch.

I have to borrow the tiny tack from my 129 to get the govener set up , But that can wait till the am. I did put in mmo and # 30 oil so i think i`am good to go. Thanks Again.

and a new IH on the grill.lol

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - I had essentially the same post typed up from My conversations with Dave. I'm using 5W-40 Rotella SB in My K321. Not sure why, I use 10W-30 Mobil I in My car.
Good advice on the max RPM. Wasn't there a pic a year or two ago on the forum where a flywheel had exploded in a CC?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, I vaguely recall an exploded flywheel. Perhaps that would be a good test for someone to try their new found search function skills to see if they could find it.

 

[mgonitzke]

Dustin S.-

Did you replace your main spring? Those can go bad too; I always replace them when I do a clutch.

 

[mstetar]

im rebuilding my K-241 when puting my crank back in i noticed that there was two timing marks on the crank which is the cam timing mark supposed to align with the one closer to the gear teeth or the other mark???

I also have another question, in my infinate stupidity i never looked at which way the connceting rod faces do i want the oil hole on the starter gen side or the cam side or does it even mater? thanks
Matt

 

[mstetar]

and now i've got a question about paint i want to paint my engine, is there heat resistant primer or will any primer work?? also my CC yellow is a shaker can i got from tractor supply it is valspar "tractor and implement" heavy duty enamel it doesnt say anywhere if it is hear resistant or not did'nt know if any of you knew or not... what do you guys ues for the motor

 

[theaton]

Matthew S., I used the TSC Valspar rattle can for my 128, including the engine. The only spot losing paint is around the exhaust port.