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Archive through November 09, 2014
- Thread starter dlbarnett
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
John,
The pictures you sent really cleared up how the scraper works and connects to the tractor. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to send them to me.
I gave attaching a picture another shot.
I had the scraper connected to the pin by a chain and even with only its weight I was happy with what I was able to do. I can't wait to make some straps so I can get some work done.
Bob
The pictures you sent really cleared up how the scraper works and connects to the tractor. I can't thank you enough for taking the time to send them to me.
I gave attaching a picture another shot.
I had the scraper connected to the pin by a chain and even with only its weight I was happy with what I was able to do. I can't wait to make some straps so I can get some work done.
Bob
Doug,
The blade is really well made - just like the tractor. It is heavy for its size which tells me there is plenty of steel on it.
This is a close-up of the scraper mount:
I bought a heavy-duty lower bracket with ears from one of the sponsors. No fear of pulling trans bolts out here. I need to find a second three-point for my 1450 so I can run the tiller on it too. I'm thinking if I use the tiller to break up ground then follow with the scraper that will be a willing combination.
I did some trans maintenance on the 1000 when I put the lower bracket on it. I'll post some pictures.
The blade is really well made - just like the tractor. It is heavy for its size which tells me there is plenty of steel on it.
This is a close-up of the scraper mount:
I bought a heavy-duty lower bracket with ears from one of the sponsors. No fear of pulling trans bolts out here. I need to find a second three-point for my 1450 so I can run the tiller on it too. I'm thinking if I use the tiller to break up ground then follow with the scraper that will be a willing combination.
I did some trans maintenance on the 1000 when I put the lower bracket on it. I'll post some pictures.
I finally got around to fixing the leaking rear end on my 1000. I wanted to get inside to check the condition of the fluid since I don't know when the last time it was changed in the previous 10 years.
This is what I started with:
Rear cover off, looks good:
Axle extensions off:
Out of the parts washer. Check out the vintage 1977 seals with factory yellow over spray on them:
Axle extensions back on with new gaskets:
I put the rear cover on with a new gasket and the three-point lower bracket. I bought new bolts that were 1/4" longer than stock to account for the thickness of the bracket.
The seals and gaskets I replaced were all original from 1977. The 1000 should be all set to go for another 37 years.
This is what I started with:
Rear cover off, looks good:
Axle extensions off:
Out of the parts washer. Check out the vintage 1977 seals with factory yellow over spray on them:
Axle extensions back on with new gaskets:
I put the rear cover on with a new gasket and the three-point lower bracket. I bought new bolts that were 1/4" longer than stock to account for the thickness of the bracket.
The seals and gaskets I replaced were all original from 1977. The 1000 should be all set to go for another 37 years.
Ken W.
Depends on the deck.
There's a few variations of each style NF decks.
Do ya have a pic of the deck your thinking about using?
Depends on the deck.
There's a few variations of each style NF decks.
Do ya have a pic of the deck your thinking about using?
akleyla
Well-known member
- Joined
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- Amy J. Kleyla
Did I see snow pics for this year ? Please tell me its not that time again ....guess I better get the snow thrower back outta the shed and get it ready. I hope I fianlly mowed for the last time this year...I hope that is....it just keeps growing from all the rain we are getting....
Ken W.
It should like one of these,
Either way IMHO, you would be better off finding a newer style deck for the new machine.
They can be converted, but it's a real PITA to do.
The main problem if memory serves me right is the fact that they both have case noses and the front hanger bolts can't be moved to easily.
Maybe someone here has an easy fix for ya.
It should like one of these,
Either way IMHO, you would be better off finding a newer style deck for the new machine.
They can be converted, but it's a real PITA to do.
The main problem if memory serves me right is the fact that they both have case noses and the front hanger bolts can't be moved to easily.
Maybe someone here has an easy fix for ya.
jlspicer
Well-known member
I echo what Jeff said. Happy Veteran's Day to all Vets, past and present, your Son included Jeff. I appreciate all you've done for our country.
Bob E.
I personally have never left the tires & wheels on the axle when servicing the rear end. It always seemed to me the extra weight increased the chances of damaging something, mainly during re-assembly.
Jim
I personally have never left the tires & wheels on the axle when servicing the rear end. It always seemed to me the extra weight increased the chances of damaging something, mainly during re-assembly.
Jim
JIM P. - Yes, same with me, always remove the wheel/tire before removing the axle carrier. Getting the wheel/tire with the axle attached out of line even a tiny bit could cause a new oil seal to leak. And like grease seals on front wheel hubs, you should replace the oil seals every time you have the axle out. They're cheap and easy to remove & install.
finally took the deck off the 124 and put the blower on. this gave me a chance to really go through the 124 and see what the prior owner did for set up on the hydraulic lift and maintenance.
The lift cylinder is nothing like the Cub manual. This is a larger cylinder that the barrel end mounts at the back of the tractor and the clevis rod end at the lift bracket. It doesn't keep things lifted so i need to probably reseal the cylinder.
I noticed the PTO clutch has two of the flat springs on it, is that an old trick? It got hot last time i used the tractor for pulling a trailer and the belt started to melt. It seems adjusted ok. It was missing the button on the lever. Glad i had a spare.
The creeper shift handle leaks. the oring on the handle side was out. I see a hole in the shaft for a cotter key, is there supposed to be a washer there to hold the oring in?
thanks for the help!! REALLY having a hard time not throwing the 12hp, creeper, larger tires, and attachment quick hitch on my 70....
I think i know why i struggle with getting the deck on and off the 70, i need to pull it from the mount instead of leaving the mount attached to the deck and lifting the tractor over...
The lift cylinder is nothing like the Cub manual. This is a larger cylinder that the barrel end mounts at the back of the tractor and the clevis rod end at the lift bracket. It doesn't keep things lifted so i need to probably reseal the cylinder.
I noticed the PTO clutch has two of the flat springs on it, is that an old trick? It got hot last time i used the tractor for pulling a trailer and the belt started to melt. It seems adjusted ok. It was missing the button on the lever. Glad i had a spare.
The creeper shift handle leaks. the oring on the handle side was out. I see a hole in the shaft for a cotter key, is there supposed to be a washer there to hold the oring in?
thanks for the help!! REALLY having a hard time not throwing the 12hp, creeper, larger tires, and attachment quick hitch on my 70....
I think i know why i struggle with getting the deck on and off the 70, i need to pull it from the mount instead of leaving the mount attached to the deck and lifting the tractor over...
Ken W.
It doesn't necessarily have to be a WF specific deck.
That cast nose is the only issue.
It doesn't necessarily have to be a WF specific deck.
That cast nose is the only issue.
Matt M., yes when removing the mower deck you should remove the mower deck from the deck hanger/carriage first, slide the deck out from the side, then remove the deck hanger/carriage from the tractor and slide it out the front. Some of the later model PTO clutches had two springs to increase engagement pressure. Not sure if it's an "old trick" or just a progression/factory improvement.
Ken W.
The most significant advantage to going with a deck made for WFs is all three of the blades are the same size. This means you can get "Gator Blades".
The decks made prior to 1977? have 1 large and 2 small blades, and they are somewhat hard to find and not cheap.
I have a 42” deck made around 1969 on my 149, it has a WF mule drive and NF hanger carriage. The deck mows as well as my 50C and 60H
Jim
The most significant advantage to going with a deck made for WFs is all three of the blades are the same size. This means you can get "Gator Blades".
The decks made prior to 1977? have 1 large and 2 small blades, and they are somewhat hard to find and not cheap.
I have a 42” deck made around 1969 on my 149, it has a WF mule drive and NF hanger carriage. The deck mows as well as my 50C and 60H
Jim
