Archive through November 08, 2009

[bnolte]

I noticed a fairly bad leak on the hydro on my 129, and quickly narrowed down the problem to the relief valve pictured below. This relief valve came with the ported pump that I used to install the hydraulic lift conversion.

I still have the old pump, which has the push buttons on the relief valves. I'm wondering if I can swap out the defective valves for the ones in the old pump, I am using the original tunnel cover for the 129, so I can operate them manually if necessary to move the tractor. The other option is to try to repair the one pictured, I believe there is a faq somewhere. but it seemed like a tricky and difficult job.

 

[fcurrier]

Bruce: You can swap them out. I've changed to auto-reliefs on 2 tractors and sometimes wish I hadn't bothered. Parking on an incline without setting the brake is a good example.

 

[bnolte]

Thanks Frank, the relief valve swap worked like a charm. Anyway I got the 129 changed over from mowing to snowblowing mode, complete with the new tri-ribs on the front. Only thing left is to mount the chains.

 

[tostir]

Does anyone know the location of the voltage regulator on a CC 1650?

 

[dross]

todd, A 1650 doesn't have a regulator, it has a a rectifier (?) it's on the engine just above the starter on the blower housing.

 

[sstanton]

Dennis F, good point and one well taken. I think the frame and sub-frame may be tweeked a shade. I have to check the rears out and see where they are at pressure wise. I'm going to have to figure out, after air pressure in the rears, where its bent. I could take the a-frame off and see if the sub frame is bent. Then I will check out the a-frame. A quick thought I just had, what if the steel rod that holds the blade to the frame is bent? The one that makes up the "hinge" when set to trip. Could that also be the problem? I know I had to put one in there when I got the plow originally. I hope to get this figured out before the snow starts to fly around here. I know that some heat can help bend things back, so that is the way I will probably go. I guess maybe I'm a freak about things being level and ought to know better! Perhaps I ought to just leave it be!!

 

[dtanner]

Scott Stanton
I had a hard time with my snow blade . when I would pull the pin and angle it the back end towards the tire would cut deeper into the ground and the front tip of the blade would be clear of the ground. is this the problem you have?????
Its and easy fix.the blade bracket has to be level from where the pin is to angle the blade to where it pivots to lift the blade. If the sub frame is to low the blade will dig in when angled at the rear. If where the blade pivots to lift is to high the blade will dig in on the front end of the blade and be clear at the tire. I hope this helps. Just my .02 later Don T

 

[wmiller]

Scott S. My 126, which has its original rear tires,does not set level unless there is a 2psi difference in pressure. It is definately the tires and it took me a while to figure out. I suggest that you put the tractor on a flat level surface and measure everything and everywhere you can think of.

 

[sstanton]

The snow blade seems "sprung" up on the right side, if your looking at it from the seat. When I put it down to where the left side just touches the ground, there is about 3/4 of an inch before the right side touches the ground, on a level surface. Got to thinking and thought that maybe the the a-frame part is bent a shade. I can take a pic of it later today when I get home from work. I know that when you angle any snowblade it tends to dig in on the side that is towards the tractor, truck, except those finish dozers. This happens when the plow is dead center on mine. I have another blade and subframe that came with my 123 that I might take the a-frame off of, just to see if the one on the 106 is bent or out of sorts. I will ask my nieghbor if I can dig out his compressor to get the rears correct too, they need some air in them anyhow!

 

[dtanner]

Scott Stanton
Well if you measure down from the quick attach bracket on each side of your cub, you should get the same measurement on both sides from the pin to the bottom of the sub frame.I plan to use a sub frame off an 1862 here on my 1512 D. I will have to shorten the lift on the sub frame in the front where it attaches to the quick attach. I think it has a drop of about 3.5" now because the 1862 is a higher tractor. so I will have to cut them shorter to make the sub frame work on my 1512 D I hope this helps you. (Frank C < you up yet> ) later Don T

 

[gpapa]

Hello everyone, I've been away awhile but I'm getting ready to finish up my mower deck. I am having a hard time figuring out which drive belt to use. The parts look up shows a couple of different options for the 38" cast iron deck on a 100. I am looking for the one that goes to the front pto. I don't have a serial #. Does anyone know how I can figure out which belt is the right one to buy? Why are there different part #s? Thanks!!

 

[glippert]

Scott S - The front blade on my 1250 hangs lower on the right side, to the point where that skid shoe is worn completely off and the left side shoe is like new. Indicates to me that the previous owner had the same problem and just let it go. I haven't checked measurements from subframe or quick attach pins to the floor yet, but I suspect my A-frame is bent.

 

[bbrigham]

Scott...There is a good chance the PO had the trip locked out and hit something with one end, that will cause the A-frame to twist. I believe the same happened to mine. I can see the A-frame has been worked to straighten it and a piece of diamond plate welded to the underside to strengthen it. These blades are pretty tight to begin with which will cause the forward edge, when angled, to set a little high. They would be better off with some slop in them. Every snowplow I've had on my pick-ups had enough movement to keep even pressure on the whole cutting edge when angled, even new plows that other guys I knew bought were that way.

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff Derstine: This is what I came up with on the K301 dipstick. 14 7/8" measured this way:

 

[sstanton]

I tore the whole snow blade down and measured all of it. I checked out it out with a level, and then checked out the 106 with the level and found that all my frustrations have come down to one simple fact. The whole tractor isnt level, and I need more air in the back right tire. I kinda feel like a clobberhead at this point and shoulda listened to you all about the air pressure from the get go!

 

[fcurrier]

Scott: And that's what it all comes down to - one more breath of air.

 

[sstanton]

Frank, you aint kidding!!

 

[gpapa]

Another mower question. What size carriage bolts hold the end caps onto the main deck frame on a 38" cast iron mower deck? The parts lookup doesn't reference these bolts. Unless I'm missing it. THANKS

 

[kide]

Greg:
Measure the square hole that the carriage bolt seats in...As for length, long enough to bolt everything together, with enough thread to go all the way through the nut, when it's tight.. There, that was easy, right??

 

[gpapa]

Makes sense. Any thoughts on my other mower question?