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Archive through November 07, 2012
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
Sad part is I could see my self doing that and wondering what I did wrong.
Hey, speaking of things wrong. I came to the conclusion that the rear end has to come out from under my 122. It has always 'popped' out of reverse but at Steve's it was popping out of second while plowing. Bummer! Just changed the fluid again too. Must be a few gears rounded off maybe?
Hey, speaking of things wrong. I came to the conclusion that the rear end has to come out from under my 122. It has always 'popped' out of reverse but at Steve's it was popping out of second while plowing. Bummer! Just changed the fluid again too. Must be a few gears rounded off maybe?
Brian: I had the same problem last Sat at the West Branch plow day, popping out of second when the pulling got a little hard.
What do you suppose the problem is? Keep us posted as to what you discover, OK?
Dave S.
What do you suppose the problem is? Keep us posted as to what you discover, OK?
Dave S.
Popping out of gear means bent/maybe wirn shift forks to me.
I got a better one than the pto. Went to start my 126 today, get it ready for its winter nap (run gas out, etc.). Noticed the right front tire low, looked in the tank to see if there was gas, there was. Tried to crank it, no power, had to jump the battery. Then it wouldn't start. Remembering the old "fuel, air, spark" troubleshooting method, removed plug, had a spark. Thought, well I had spark, saw fuel, only leaves air. Removed air cleaner, still no start. Put a straws full of gas in the carb and it tried to start. I saw fuel in the fuel filter glass, figured it must be a clogged fuel line. Anyway the problem was with the RH front tire. It lowered the RH side, the fuel tank had only enough fuel to coat the bottom of the tank, the fuel I saw in the glass was below the level of the outlet tube, I had a straight through line with no fuel in it. Pumped up tire, added gas, started engine.
But you know what Brian, the worst problem is when (especially on a narrow frame) you work on something put it all back together and notice you left out a part that you should have put on first.
But you know what Brian, the worst problem is when (especially on a narrow frame) you work on something put it all back together and notice you left out a part that you should have put on first.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
I appreciate everyone's input on the dipstick location on my 109 - and if is the stock engine.
On another note (and with Charlie's PTO pic), I promised I'd post a few pictures of my ground down brass pto button on my 109.
Engaged:
Disengaged:
The thing looks really off center side to side. Not sure yet if I need to loosen the engine mount bolts and move the engine a bit or to figure out some way to shim the pto button tab side to side. It just seems odd to me that it would be so far off center - or is this somewhat normal given the tolerance build-up between engine and pto button assembly?
On another note (and with Charlie's PTO pic), I promised I'd post a few pictures of my ground down brass pto button on my 109.
Engaged:
Disengaged:
The thing looks really off center side to side. Not sure yet if I need to loosen the engine mount bolts and move the engine a bit or to figure out some way to shim the pto button tab side to side. It just seems odd to me that it would be so far off center - or is this somewhat normal given the tolerance build-up between engine and pto button assembly?
elamott
Well-known member
I was putting my snow blower and I noticed that the mechanical clutch thrust button was worn down to a point.
After reading the past forums it looks like I had adjusted it too tight. I am thinking that to replace it, I just have to remove the screws that hold the 3 springs on and slide in the button. Am I correct or is there more involved?
I appreciate any comments.
Earl LaMott
After reading the past forums it looks like I had adjusted it too tight. I am thinking that to replace it, I just have to remove the screws that hold the 3 springs on and slide in the button. Am I correct or is there more involved?
I appreciate any comments.
Earl LaMott
Bill Jamison
That is an easy fix to get the pto button centered. Just add a flat washer on the right side of the frame where the rod goes through for the pto.
Or just below where the rod attaches that is used to pull the pto back to disengage the PTO. I wish I could explain this like Harry and Denny
That is an easy fix to get the pto button centered. Just add a flat washer on the right side of the frame where the rod goes through for the pto.
Or just below where the rod attaches that is used to pull the pto back to disengage the PTO. I wish I could explain this like Harry and Denny
Earl LaMott
You will need to remove the pto from the tractor to do any adjustments because there are two nut locked together on the back side of those screws that are used to adjust the PTO. I have found that if you leave three threads showing behind those nut your PTO will most often be adjusted correctly. Hope this helps
You will need to remove the pto from the tractor to do any adjustments because there are two nut locked together on the back side of those screws that are used to adjust the PTO. I have found that if you leave three threads showing behind those nut your PTO will most often be adjusted correctly. Hope this helps
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Earl - I'd say that you are "generally" correct in your thinking, but.... You have to remove the PTO clutch from the tractor to get at the double nuts on the back side of the screws, AND, the screws hold the ears that set the tension on the spring(s), so..... It's basically a complete disassembly. Make sure you have one of those gauge tools to reset the springs.
Bill - the button looks way to far out of alignment to me. Maybe your lever (that the brass/bronze PTO button is mounted on is stuck or rusted in place. It should be somewhat "self centering". Look where it slipes thru each side of the frame and make sure it's not rusted in place. I believe the left side has a bushing fit with a cotter pin on the inside of the frame. (And for what it's worth, looks like you have a bolt holding the brass/bronze button in place. I've never seen that. I thought the button was mounted the same way as the fiber one).
Now, going back to the dip stick on your 10hp, I also spoke with my son and his 108 has the dipstick thru the top of the block on the right side.
Bill - the button looks way to far out of alignment to me. Maybe your lever (that the brass/bronze PTO button is mounted on is stuck or rusted in place. It should be somewhat "self centering". Look where it slipes thru each side of the frame and make sure it's not rusted in place. I believe the left side has a bushing fit with a cotter pin on the inside of the frame. (And for what it's worth, looks like you have a bolt holding the brass/bronze button in place. I've never seen that. I thought the button was mounted the same way as the fiber one).
Now, going back to the dip stick on your 10hp, I also spoke with my son and his 108 has the dipstick thru the top of the block on the right side.
