- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Dave-
Is this what you need?...
Is this what you need?...
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
pcleveland
Active member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2003
- Messages
- 30
- displayname
- Pat Cleveland
Wyatt,
Thank you for posting the instructions! Will see what I can do.
My two car attached garage is real tight with a car, pick-up, cc 782 w/54" blade, chest freezer, table saw, two sets of tool drawers, shelves across front, ladders, and my oldest son's project chopper motorcycle and my portabote, and so on! I sure could use the "Super Steer Upgrade" on the cub.
Thanks again,
Pat
Thank you for posting the instructions! Will see what I can do.
My two car attached garage is real tight with a car, pick-up, cc 782 w/54" blade, chest freezer, table saw, two sets of tool drawers, shelves across front, ladders, and my oldest son's project chopper motorcycle and my portabote, and so on! I sure could use the "Super Steer Upgrade" on the cub.
Thanks again,
Pat
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Pat-
Don't forget, as Wyatt suggested, to send the old axle to me. I don't know why, but I guess you should send it to me...
Don't forget, as Wyatt suggested, to send the old axle to me. I don't know why, but I guess you should send it to me...
I bet if I look long enough I can find "Capt' Kirk's" write up on the Killer Starter mod in my archives.....
......Wyatt, do you have a ball park date as to when he posted it?
Ray L. - Humbly submit? All slant grills ROCK! Is that a 48" deck on there?
Kraig - Good catch! When I was putting it on I remember thinking, now does it go this way... or this way. I was too lazy to walk up to the house and get any of the manuals out.
Kraig - Good catch! When I was putting it on I remember thinking, now does it go this way... or this way. I was too lazy to walk up to the house and get any of the manuals out.
Mark 
)
Wyatt, I found it Capt'n Kirk's Killer Starter mods........ David posted 13 photos with it, I think I'll post a few and then email the complete set along with a text file of the entire post(s) to those that request it.
) Wyatt, I found it Capt'n Kirk's Killer Starter mods........ David posted 13 photos with it, I think I'll post a few and then email the complete set along with a text file of the entire post(s) to those that request it.
Here is the text:
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Posted by David Kirk on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 08:50 PM:
I must admit that I had starting problems this winter with my K-301 AQS HR (hot-rodded) engine. This seeemed mostly due to the additional drag imposed by the larger charge pump that is part of the hydraulics package that I installed earlier in the year. The result was the engine just wouldn't crank fast enough to self-sustain. It would fire, kick the bendix out and not keep running.
Recently I came across a starter for a newer, vertical shaft Kohler that is exactly the same physical size as the K-series starter. Only major difference is the new model is flange mounted while the K-series is a side mount.
9546.jpg
9547.jpg
Disassembly of the new starter revealed that the wire diameter on the armature windings was .050 versus .046 on the original. Also, the new one had epoxy on the windings for better retention. Two comparison pictures to follow.
9548.jpg
9549.jpg
Measuring the pinion gear travel and number of teeth revealed that both were identical. Thus, it seemed rather straight forward to put all the newer parts into the old starter frame and wind up with something that would give a little more cranking effort.
The first and foremost modification was removing the flanges from the aluminum front bearing plate. This was chucked up in the lathe and turned to a 3.030 diameter, same as the other, stamped steel plate.
9553.jpg
9554.jpg
Another improvement in the newer starter is the bendix drive pinion has a friction clutch such that false starts are eliminated or greatly reduced. The pinion and driver are a two-piece component versus the older style single piece.
9555.jpg
I decided to use the old style rear bearing plate so the new brush holder and brushes were transferred over. Everything was totally interchangeable.
9556.jpg
With that done, assembly was next. I use the popsickle stick method of holding the brushes down, then lowering the armature down into position over the sticks.
9558.jpg
Then the frame is lowered over the armature while doing some fancy fingerwork. The sticks are then pulled out and weight and magnetism hold everything in place.
9559.jpg
The front bearing plate is slid into position and bolted up with the newer, slightly longer bolts. The pinion gear and return spring is retained by a snap ring and collar arrangement rather than the older style threaded nut.
9560.jpg
9561.jpg
All that's left is to snap the plastic dust cover in place, mount on the engine, and try it.
9563.jpg
Well I'm happy to say that this super-starter works GREAT! It spins the engine over at a noticeably faster rate yielding instant light-offs. It also is much quieter and has a nicer, precision sound versus the original, "grind some for me" racket that reminded me of an old school bus I used to ride as a kid. The thicker front bearing plate poses no installation problems and everything clears and fits fine.
Winter and cold weather will be the real test. I think it will perform with gusto.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Here is photo number 9558.jpg:
If you must see the photos let me know and I'll send 'em out. I'll be heading home in a minute or two so I will not be around to respond until Monday.
Bryan, you want a Word Document with the photos inserted into their proper place for making another page?
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Posted by David Kirk on Thursday, June 12, 2003 - 08:50 PM:
I must admit that I had starting problems this winter with my K-301 AQS HR (hot-rodded) engine. This seeemed mostly due to the additional drag imposed by the larger charge pump that is part of the hydraulics package that I installed earlier in the year. The result was the engine just wouldn't crank fast enough to self-sustain. It would fire, kick the bendix out and not keep running.
Recently I came across a starter for a newer, vertical shaft Kohler that is exactly the same physical size as the K-series starter. Only major difference is the new model is flange mounted while the K-series is a side mount.
9546.jpg
9547.jpg
Disassembly of the new starter revealed that the wire diameter on the armature windings was .050 versus .046 on the original. Also, the new one had epoxy on the windings for better retention. Two comparison pictures to follow.
9548.jpg
9549.jpg
Measuring the pinion gear travel and number of teeth revealed that both were identical. Thus, it seemed rather straight forward to put all the newer parts into the old starter frame and wind up with something that would give a little more cranking effort.
The first and foremost modification was removing the flanges from the aluminum front bearing plate. This was chucked up in the lathe and turned to a 3.030 diameter, same as the other, stamped steel plate.
9553.jpg
9554.jpg
Another improvement in the newer starter is the bendix drive pinion has a friction clutch such that false starts are eliminated or greatly reduced. The pinion and driver are a two-piece component versus the older style single piece.
9555.jpg
I decided to use the old style rear bearing plate so the new brush holder and brushes were transferred over. Everything was totally interchangeable.
9556.jpg
With that done, assembly was next. I use the popsickle stick method of holding the brushes down, then lowering the armature down into position over the sticks.
9558.jpg
Then the frame is lowered over the armature while doing some fancy fingerwork. The sticks are then pulled out and weight and magnetism hold everything in place.
9559.jpg
The front bearing plate is slid into position and bolted up with the newer, slightly longer bolts. The pinion gear and return spring is retained by a snap ring and collar arrangement rather than the older style threaded nut.
9560.jpg
9561.jpg
All that's left is to snap the plastic dust cover in place, mount on the engine, and try it.
9563.jpg
Well I'm happy to say that this super-starter works GREAT! It spins the engine over at a noticeably faster rate yielding instant light-offs. It also is much quieter and has a nicer, precision sound versus the original, "grind some for me" racket that reminded me of an old school bus I used to ride as a kid. The thicker front bearing plate poses no installation problems and everything clears and fits fine.
Winter and cold weather will be the real test. I think it will perform with gusto.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Here is photo number 9558.jpg:
If you must see the photos let me know and I'll send 'em out. I'll be heading home in a minute or two so I will not be around to respond until Monday.
Bryan, you want a Word Document with the photos inserted into their proper place for making another page?
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Kraig-
I like that one better! Workin' late tonight, eh?
<font size="-2">Me too..</font>
I like that one better! Workin' late tonight, eh?
<font size="-2">Me too..</font>
Kraig,
Thanks for scrounging that one up. I don't ever save these writeups but I do have the pictures. I did copy and paste what you posted to a Word document and I can add the pictures if Wyatt is still interested.
Wyatt, e-mail if you would like me to do this and send to you. Would be glad to.
Thanks for scrounging that one up. I don't ever save these writeups but I do have the pictures. I did copy and paste what you posted to a Word document and I can add the pictures if Wyatt is still interested.
Wyatt, e-mail if you would like me to do this and send to you. Would be glad to.
Kraig-
THAT'S IT!!!!!
Thanks!
Hopefully I'll have some luck finding the actual part number of the starter, some of the small dealers that mostly do Briggs stuff can't find much unless you have the specific model & spec number or a part number.
THAT'S IT!!!!!
Thanks!
Hopefully I'll have some luck finding the actual part number of the starter, some of the small dealers that mostly do Briggs stuff can't find much unless you have the specific model & spec number or a part number.
Steve:
You know why they use the coulter you are proposing? For the very reason you said they are being removed. Trash and debris.
The notched coulters work better when the junk is present.
You are on the right track.
Kraig:
Check your bank of pictures.
See what part no. 741-3004 shows for a model 1650.
This should look like the bearing/busing Don V. posted a pic of for me a week or so back.
Got an e-mail from a forum reader with this info.
Maybe my mystery is solved and I can finish the other two 1200s I am working on.
Thanks
You know why they use the coulter you are proposing? For the very reason you said they are being removed. Trash and debris.
The notched coulters work better when the junk is present.
You are on the right track.
Kraig:
Check your bank of pictures.
See what part no. 741-3004 shows for a model 1650.
This should look like the bearing/busing Don V. posted a pic of for me a week or so back.
Got an e-mail from a forum reader with this info.
Maybe my mystery is solved and I can finish the other two 1200s I am working on.
Thanks
Steve is that to scale and if so, what size coulter is possibe. When I was first getting my plow set up it seemed like the coulter could mabey keep the plow from going deeper. Do you think streaching the frame puts more wieght further back to help engage the bottom? Or is the length just to clear the larger diameter coulter? A larger notched coulter has got to help with getting the trash cut if it would just go in the ground.
Frank M,
The new number is 941-3004 and is what your looking for.
The new number is 941-3004 and is what your looking for.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Frank,
Both notched and Yetter style coulters will work better in trash, but on a Brinly there's more to it thant that. The 10" sleeve hitch plows have a real problem with trash clearance in the throat. The beam, coulter yoke, and sleeve hitch work like rakes, especially on the low ground clearance GT's.
I'm working on a way to add 3-4" of throat to a Brinly (12") sleeve hitch plow and to keep the coulter, but make it work/cut better......20# of weight behind the board might help too
Anyway, these sketches are just a first step in playing around with the design I want...might resort to 2x6's on edge and some plywood to mock up a furrow and play with line-of-draft, clearance, throat, etc.
BTW, that's real close to scale. Raster design lets you edit raster images in the vector world of ACAD, so I superimposed vector graphics over a side-on photo of one of my plows mounted on the tractor.
Both notched and Yetter style coulters will work better in trash, but on a Brinly there's more to it thant that. The 10" sleeve hitch plows have a real problem with trash clearance in the throat. The beam, coulter yoke, and sleeve hitch work like rakes, especially on the low ground clearance GT's.
I'm working on a way to add 3-4" of throat to a Brinly (12") sleeve hitch plow and to keep the coulter, but make it work/cut better......20# of weight behind the board might help too
BTW, that's real close to scale. Raster design lets you edit raster images in the vector world of ACAD, so I superimposed vector graphics over a side-on photo of one of my plows mounted on the tractor.
Steve B:
In the third paragraph below, what the hell did you just say...?????) Engineers, you just GOTTA love 'em.
As a finance guy who likes wrenches, the term 'raster' and 'vector world' means as much to me as when Chef from Southpark says, "hoob-a-joub". I'm thinkin' - you design it, tell me if it works and then how much will it cost...
Oh, yeah, and after 2 hours arguing with an engineer, you should begin to figure out that they like to argue. Right, Steve?
Have a great day!
In the third paragraph below, what the hell did you just say...?????
) Engineers, you just GOTTA love 'em. As a finance guy who likes wrenches, the term 'raster' and 'vector world' means as much to me as when Chef from Southpark says, "hoob-a-joub". I'm thinkin' - you design it, tell me if it works and then how much will it cost...
Oh, yeah, and after 2 hours arguing with an engineer, you should begin to figure out that they like to argue. Right, Steve?
Have a great day!
