mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard P.-
Um, the driveshaft on a hydro had better be turning anytime the crankshaft is turning....
Um, the driveshaft on a hydro had better be turning anytime the crankshaft is turning....
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through November 05, 2009
- Thread starter rwilke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Matt S.
I have my share of gear drives, a 100, 72, 582special.
Hydros are a 107, 127, 383, 3235
I currently have those Bolens wheel weights on my 72 with the FEL.
This old 127 has not liked to start in the cold winter months and it makes it very hard to use for snow removal dutys when it does not want to start up.
That is the reason behind wanting to install a clutch in the driveline.
Start motor, let it warm up, engauge the clutch thus engaging the hydrotransmision.
Just wondering how much trouble it is to convert.
I have my share of gear drives, a 100, 72, 582special.
Hydros are a 107, 127, 383, 3235
I currently have those Bolens wheel weights on my 72 with the FEL.
This old 127 has not liked to start in the cold winter months and it makes it very hard to use for snow removal dutys when it does not want to start up.
That is the reason behind wanting to install a clutch in the driveline.
Start motor, let it warm up, engauge the clutch thus engaging the hydrotransmision.
Just wondering how much trouble it is to convert.
An excerpt from the Disconnect Clutch install info.
Weight box photos.
Weight box photos.
David Kirk's rear weight setup.
Anybody help... How do you take the auger out of a QA-42A snowthrower? I took the end bearing retainer bolts out and the shaft collar set screws out but nothing will move. I assume that I need to slide the collars and bearings inboard. Are the collars just rusted or are they welded to the shaft? Thanks!
Dan, there is an eccentric collar on the bearing, you'll need a punch and a hammer to remove it. Step one is to locate a hole in the collar, NOT the setscrew hole, the hole I'm referring to will only be 1/8" or so deep and is not threaded. Once you locate the hole place the punch into the hole and tap on it, start lightly if it doesn't move, you may be driving it the wrong direction. If you look closely at the hole, you may be able to see the indents from when it was installed, if so, that will be an indication of the direction it was rotated to install it. The proper installation would be to rotate the collar in the same direction as the normal operating rotation of the shaft that the bearing is installed on. Make sense?
BTW, welcome!
BTW, welcome!
Lonny,
I was wondering (that is, if you have an unheated garage but access to electricity) to throw an old electric blanket over it when snow is expected. I have considered using a space heater, but except for possibly a Delonghi oil filled heater I wouldn't feel save leaving it unattended. It might just give it the edge it needs on those cold mornings.
I was wondering (that is, if you have an unheated garage but access to electricity) to throw an old electric blanket over it when snow is expected. I have considered using a space heater, but except for possibly a Delonghi oil filled heater I wouldn't feel save leaving it unattended. It might just give it the edge it needs on those cold mornings.
DAVE ROSS - Yes, that little "H" shaped support for the drive sprocket on the QA-36/42 snow blowers is aluminum. Pretty common for the shaft & sprocket to wear into the sides of the casting and destroy the needle bearings supporting the shaft.
I paid $90 for My QA-36 ready to mount on a WF tractor in about 1983 or '84. I paid over $150 for a new casting, drive sprocket, roll pins, needle bearings, zerks, etc. to get the blower running again in about 1994. Much to My surprise My local C/IH/CC dealer had everything in stock!
Got ALL the leaves chewed up Wednesday & Thursday. 72 ran like a Champ! Drop the deck & mule drive today and put the sleeve hitch on, hook up to the lawn aerator this AM and go about poking a Couple MILLION holes in the yard this afternoon! It's ALL about "Seat Time" right?
I paid $90 for My QA-36 ready to mount on a WF tractor in about 1983 or '84. I paid over $150 for a new casting, drive sprocket, roll pins, needle bearings, zerks, etc. to get the blower running again in about 1994. Much to My surprise My local C/IH/CC dealer had everything in stock!
Got ALL the leaves chewed up Wednesday & Thursday. 72 ran like a Champ! Drop the deck & mule drive today and put the sleeve hitch on, hook up to the lawn aerator this AM and go about poking a Couple MILLION holes in the yard this afternoon! It's ALL about "Seat Time" right?
Fellas,
I'd think twice about using an old electric blanket to keep your Cub warm during the cold season.
I was just reading that it is estimated that 5,000 fires per year are caused by faulty electric blankets, of which 99% are believed to have been caused by blankets 10 years or older.
If you're planning to use your Cub in the Winter to plow or blow snow, I'd say the starting issue is a small problem compared to the bigger issue of snow compaction and ice formation that occurs all over the tractor from working it in the snow, then parking it and the warm tractor melting it and then eventually cooling and freezing EVERYTHING into a block of ICE!
I never did figure out an easy way to combat this issue.
<font color="0000ff">How do you guys that have been plowing and blowing for years combat the "tractor icing up" issues?</font>
Ryan Wilke
I'd think twice about using an old electric blanket to keep your Cub warm during the cold season.
I was just reading that it is estimated that 5,000 fires per year are caused by faulty electric blankets, of which 99% are believed to have been caused by blankets 10 years or older.
If you're planning to use your Cub in the Winter to plow or blow snow, I'd say the starting issue is a small problem compared to the bigger issue of snow compaction and ice formation that occurs all over the tractor from working it in the snow, then parking it and the warm tractor melting it and then eventually cooling and freezing EVERYTHING into a block of ICE!
I never did figure out an easy way to combat this issue.
<font color="0000ff">How do you guys that have been plowing and blowing for years combat the "tractor icing up" issues?</font>
Ryan Wilke
Paul,
I converted my pull type to connect to the IH 3 point hitch and it worked great (for a while).
But I'm converting mine back to a pull type. I should have taken a picture, but I was too busy trying to figure out a way to fix it when it tore the three bolts out of the cast rear on my 782 while I was aerating last summer.
I was able to use enough remaining threads to seal the cover plate on the back of the hydro, and I opted for the Aaron Schmidt cat 0 3 point for attachments from now on. I tried to use it with the new 3 point, but I don't have down pressure so I can't get the plugs deep enough without adding more weight than the tractor can lift.
So I'm planning to add transport wheels that I can raise with the rear hydraulic ports, then I'll add enough weight to pull plugs as deep as I want.
As a side note, with the " Xtreme Hitch" style mount that Aaron sells, I probably wouldn't have any problem running it the way it was when it broke. One of these days I'm going to make up a few of those to put on my tractors. Ever since I've worried about tearing those bolts out of another tractor.
I converted my pull type to connect to the IH 3 point hitch and it worked great (for a while).
But I'm converting mine back to a pull type. I should have taken a picture, but I was too busy trying to figure out a way to fix it when it tore the three bolts out of the cast rear on my 782 while I was aerating last summer.
I was able to use enough remaining threads to seal the cover plate on the back of the hydro, and I opted for the Aaron Schmidt cat 0 3 point for attachments from now on. I tried to use it with the new 3 point, but I don't have down pressure so I can't get the plugs deep enough without adding more weight than the tractor can lift.
So I'm planning to add transport wheels that I can raise with the rear hydraulic ports, then I'll add enough weight to pull plugs as deep as I want.
As a side note, with the " Xtreme Hitch" style mount that Aaron sells, I probably wouldn't have any problem running it the way it was when it broke. One of these days I'm going to make up a few of those to put on my tractors. Ever since I've worried about tearing those bolts out of another tractor.
proessler
Well-known member
Ryan W My shop is fairly new ,with 6" insulated walls & 12"+ Blow'n in the attic. Better than the house & garage has! It stays comfortable when the temps drop, I just turn the thermostat on/up...if needed. I do have magnetic Kat's 300 watt heater I can use if the need arises to get the mini Diesel motivated.I installed a Clutch Disconnect pkg on the 1811, the CC I have since gave to #2 son. Trying to decide which Cub to put the Heat Hauser/ Wind Breaker on, the 882 or the 1541. The 882 is favorite & easiest to mount. OK, After Saturdays NE Iowa PD then I'll mount it back on the mini Diesel CC.
Dennis I aerated the lawn 3-4 weeks ago, just might do it again if weather holds next week since all the lawn vacing has added alot of passes over the lawn. More Cub time!!!
Whoppee!
Dennis I aerated the lawn 3-4 weeks ago, just might do it again if weather holds next week since all the lawn vacing has added alot of passes over the lawn. More Cub time!!!
proessler
Well-known member
Shane P Looks like your aerator wouldn't work very well on turns. There is no differential action with a solid drum. Probably OK on the straight away. I raise up if there's a sharp turn even with only 2 aerator wheels per section.My aerator is 60" overall with 4-- 2 wheel hub sections.
Shane Peterson
Jus a FINE looking 149. I just got to many fingers in the same pot.(I just hope I can make ALL my tractors look like yours> I have done the Hub Mod on my 129 loader. Here is my 149 today.
but I did 1
Jus a FINE looking 149. I just got to many fingers in the same pot.(I just hope I can make ALL my tractors look like yours> I have done the Hub Mod on my 129 loader. Here is my 149 today.
but I did 1
