Archive through November 04, 2004

[kmcconaughey]

Bob, Bryan, thanks for checking on the email issue!

Wyatt, don't know if this will help. It isn't in all the versions of the hydro service manual so you may not have read it.

 

[rchristensen]

Wyatt
I have replaced seals on quite a few hydros now and the way I do it is I keep a squirt can of hydro fluid by my side when I am putting them back together, I keep everything clean and then put plenty of oil on everything as I assemble it. I keep a small container of hydro fluid near and dip the pump and motor in it before they go in. I think the biggest chance of damagining something is if it runs dry at start up. I doubt you would damage the charge pump but the disc's on the motor and pump could easily be damaged as well as the plates on the swash plate and the fixed back plate the pistons run on. Using this method I have never had any problem.

An update if anybody is interested. I have been using the Neopreme home made gasket in place of the cork gasket between the hydro and the rear end for a couple of years now with no problem. When I started I put a couple pieces of Neopreme in a container of Hydro fluid to see what the results might be, I took them out today and this is what they look like after sitting in hydro fluid for a couple of years, doesn't seem to be any detoriation.

 

[bmcmeen]

Tedd!!!

If you're out there, dump the Airstream ya got and buy THIS!!!

http://pageuser.auctions.shopping.yahoo.com/auction/87637183?u=%3ahellokittytarget&aucview=0x34

 

[mguest]

Does anyone know how to remove the pulley wheel from the starter generator? I bought a replacement sg and cannot get the pulley wheel off of the old unit.

 

[till]

My daughter wants me to do the same. "Can't we just buy that new one???" I can't win can I??????

 

[sblunier]

Wyatt,

I follow Richards method and think to myself "treat this like assembly lube in and engine rebuild...make sure anything that spins will be lubed for long enough to prime the system".

An oil can filled with hytran is a huge help, and yes, many times I will pump the check valve ports full of oil before start up. These ports are tied directly to the motor "kidneys", so plenty of oil there is a good thing.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, Tedd, if my daughter see's that she'll want it too! I think I'll show her anyway.

Big Bean, I'll be sure to tell her you told me about it. )

 

[kmcconaughey]

When I first read Wyatt's post I was thinking he had the hydro apart, after rereading his post it appears he just has the hydro off of the differential to replace the cork gasket.

Wyatt, are you asking that even if all the hydro is drained for a cork gasket replacement would there be enough residual on the parts to not be an issue? Or did you take the hydro apart? (Not that it makes too much difference I'm just curious, thankfully I'm not a cat........)

(Message edited by kmcconaughey on November 04, 2004)

 

[wcompton]

Kraig-
It's snowballing, first I go to change fluid, then I see my fan's basically gone, then I see my 3-year old driveshaft's starting to wallow out the coupler, then I find a nice gauge, then I decide to go ahead and put the cooler on, then I find information that gives me reason to not use Hytran, etc, etc. At this rate I'll be putting a K361 cam in the motor and repainting it in a month, with my only tractor torn down I'm sure to make for a big first snow!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Wyatt, can you add to this? I'm curious again.....

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

...then I find information that gives me reason to not use Hytran...<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Sounds like you need to just lock yourself in your garage with your tools and just the Cub Cadet parts you have now.

 

[digger]

OH Oh oh!!!!
I got that info Kraig, grin

 

[digger]

Oh I know I'm gonna catch hell for this, LOL

Hytran-
Viscosity Index - 103
Pour Point (deg C) - -37

Mobil Type-F-
Viscosity Index - 150
Pour Point (deg C) - -40

Pennzoil Type-F-
Viscosity Index - 152
Pour Point (deg C) - -40

Mobil MX4T 10W-40 (API-CD oil)
Viscosity Index - ?
Pour Point (deg C) - -54

So it's not a real complete list, but it shows that the viscosity index (higher number is better)
puts Hytran with some fairly generic fluids, the TypeF and 10W-40 motorcycle oil have a VI in the
same territory as synthetics. THe Sauer manual says pump works with no damage at 30 degrees F
above the pour point . . . so assuming you've got new Hytran, the hydro should't be started cold
at -4 or less, but with the type F, you get a few more degrees, and with the motorcycle oil you'll
get down to -34. So far my verdict is that if you store your Cub at outdoor ambient temps in the
winter, you might be well-served to use an API-CD type engine oil versus HyTran. The Type-F looks
like it's good for year-round use with a more stable viscosity at higher temps.

 

[jshafer]

Whoa Digger. I don't know if this is in response to my question about having troubles getting my hydro to go in low temps, but it seems your sayin' to use type "F" oil in the hydrostatic transmission when I change the fluid and filter? This will allow me to get better viscocity in colder temps? I am no where near the experts you all are at this hydro stuff - so this piques my interest.
PS - Thanks Kraig for digging those pics up.

(Message edited by jshafer on November 04, 2004)

 

[digger]

John S.
I dint do nothin but copy and paste what I was sent, if the guy that dug up that info wants to fess up, he will, but I ain't tellin! I KNOW NOTHINGGGGGG!!

 

[jshafer]

Thanks Schultz! :-}

 

[digger]

John S,
I personally will never use anything but Hytran in my Cubs.
If your having problems in cold weather, Heat that sucker up with a magnetic block heater, I bought two years ago but have no need for them since I now keep my workin Cubs in a heated garage, they fire right up. ;-p

 

[wheinsohn]

Digger & Kraig,
If I am reading the chart right, it shows the pour point in Centigrade degrees which makes the pour point around -67 degrees Fahrenheit. So with that, Hytran would be good to about -35 to meet Sauer's recommendations. But I could be reading it wrong.

 

[wheinsohn]

Oops, time to fire the calculater. -40C is -40F. So Hytran would meet Sauer's recommendations down to -10F. Personally, if it gets that cold, I always let things warm up after starting before using them any how.

 

[jshafer]

Thanks Digger. A friend told me about that the other day. I was planning on trying that but was curious about cold weather usage. Last year I had to use the Cub to get us out of 2' of snow. That much snow is a good excuse to stay inside, but also a good excuse to stay outside too!! :-0

 

[digger]

John S.
If yoou don't/can't heat it up any other way, Do like I used to do with my backhoes in the winter, jack that sucker up, fire it up and push that hydro lever forward and let those tires spin for about 30 minutes, the hytran will heat up!!!
BUT, just make sure it's stable and level so it won't go flyin through the wall, LOL