Archive through November 03, 2013

[rrschmitt]

Tony H,

If your dipstick is venting crankcase blow by pressure, I would be checking the crankcase breather as it may be getting plugged up and in need of cleaning and a new mesh element. The breather is on the top-right side of the engine (as setting on the seat) and is vented to the air filter intake on the carb via a hose under the air filter base on KT-17 models. Either that or you dipstick seal cap may be broken as the dipstick should be snug on the tube and provide adequate sealing to prevent movement and blow by air from escaping.

 

[bjamison]

Quick question - torque vs HP.

I'm tooling along with the 126, enjoying some badly needed seat time/therapy while mowing grass and I roll into at tall patch of grass. From 3600 RPMs, the engine falls to 3200 RPMs, the engine grunts and bull dozes through, obliterating the tall grass and then back to a smooth 3600 RPMs.

What saved the day, torque or HP?

 

[sshaff]

Bill J -- I'd say both. Here's a link that explains the relationship between torque and horsepower in a way that is understandable and technically correct:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_0401_torque_horsepower_guide/equations_relationships.html

 

[tkhoffman]

Thanks Jim and Ron.
I will see if the dipstick has lost it's gasket 'O' ring. Although the hollow tube handle part comes before the small hooded area that would get the 'O' ring

With the air cleaner Off I do get a mist coming up through the Vent hose as well.
Oil level is right where it should be. So it's not an Overfull problem.
That breather hose goes down to the Little valve cover.. I haven't had that off yet. Is that what belongs there, a little Mesh. Like Scotchbright?
I saw something listed in CUB CADET LOOKUP (a sponsor) just wasn't sure what they were showing.

 

[nbextermueller]

Torque. HP is a pretend number entirely dependent on TQ.

The formula is: HP=(rpm*TQ)/5252.
I also remember, TQ is how much work can be done, HP is how fast it gets done.

This is the reason ALL of our engines are rated "@ 3600rpm".

Same reason you could have walked in there with a weedeater with 2hp @ 10,000 rpm and done damage. It takes that much rpm to produce enough power to tear the big weeds.

Vice versa, it's why a 982D could have walked an even bigger deck in there at 1800 rpm barely losing 100rpm.

My 8hp puller with read 16hp at 7200rpm. (Even though in reality I've made 37hp at the wheels on alcohol and nitro @6000 rpm!!) LOL just not for very long...

 

[cellis]

I finally got time to post a followup on my little 782 repair project. Been swamped getting ready for winter and all that.

OK...a few months ago, my 782's starter...never a robust item...gave out entirely. I looked in the archive and got the rebuild instructions, gave those to my able 15 year-old son, who did the job. Put it back in...still no joy. Took it out and decided to pull it apart again after discovering no current passing through it. Discovered the little bakelite parts that position the brushes were in MANY pieces. Asked my son how that happened and he said "when I took it apart to clean it, they all just fell out...so I stuffed them back in there and put the cap on".

No mystery why the starter did not work, eh? So, bought a new one AND, in the process decided, what the heck, I'll splurge and buy new battery cables.

I've got to report this to you: The new cables transformed how that 782 runs. For the first time in years, it starts instantly, idles beautifully, and spools out making all the power it's got without a miss or hickup. NEW BATTERY CABLES are every bit the cure that others have reported they are. I am amazed...and very pleased. The Cub is still a better tractor than I can buy new and I'm delighted with it.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and help.

TTFN

 

[nbextermueller]

Tony,

Under that "valve cover" is also a plate with a check valve, either old EOM rubber or the required metal replacement. If your getting tons of blow by into the carb, you valve is like not working. The new part is $15. Not saying you need it, just FYI.

Can you post a picture of your dipstick in question? I've looked at both my KT17's, my Mag18 and Mag20 and I'm still confused.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Craig E., thanks for the update. Good to hear you have your 782 running well.

 

[cellis]

On torque and HP...torque is the amount of rotational power (work) that can be applied and horsepower measures how FAST the work will occur. Torque times RPMs divided by 5,252 gives HP. Conversely, HP times 5252 divided by RPM gives HP. So, torque is rotational power (whether or not movement actually occurs) and RPMs is, basically, the speed of that movement.

If you look up the definition of HP, it gives you a formula about how much weight can be lifted a specific distance in a given amount of time. Therefore, HP is a TIME calculation above all whereas torque is a power calculation.

A beam indicator torque wrench is a perfect way to visualize this - the harder you pull, the more torque even though the fastener might not move. HP, is just a measure of how fast the torque is applied.

The old hotrodders saying is "you drive torque and race horsepower".

 

[cellis]

Thanks, Kraig!

It's funny how people (I'm speaking about ME, here) tend to read "advice" on this forum and then go ahead and do what they want anyway. Well, this time, I actually spent ten bucks on battery cables and, man-o-man, was I surprised.

Never again will I wing it on my own. Those cables even made my Walmart battery seemed like a good deal.

Anyway...back to work. Putting in a water line out to the horse barn. In the mud. In the rain. In November. Shows you how smart I am, eh?