• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through May 28, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
KEN - My truck has 85W-140 synthetic in the rear axle, WAY too good for the little Kohler. Everything else except the frt diff is syn. ATF even in the manual trans. Not sure what's in the frt diff. The Factory put that in.

That old pre-emmissions 250 Chevy six would have RUN on 90W. They were a pretty durable old engine. Not a big power house but reliable. Mom had a '65 Impala with the 250 & "Power-Glide" A/T. Terminal velocity was about 75 mph, 80 with a tail wind downhill.

I do have a gallon or two of 85W-140 dino oil. It won't even pour out of the jugs around 20-30 deg. F.
 
Thanks for the, well sort of welcome Decker!

Anyone have a K161 apart? I have what I beleive is the original engine but the new piston rod does not fit.
WELL, I just went out to take some pictures for your viewing pleasure and when I set the rod/piston on the crank I decided to measure the stroke. Turns out my K161 (by the fan shroud) has a 2.75 inch stroke. The stroke of a K161 is 2.50 inches so I beleive I have a K181 block with a K161 fan shroud. Does this make sense? Will the shroud fit on either engine? Is it possible to have a 181 crank and piston in a 161 block?
Why can't people be honest? I could have this thing puttin around the yard instead of looking at it on my work bench.
191354.jpg
The day I brought my 71 home.

Bob
 
Thought I would send pictures of my other tractor!

191357.jpg


Went to buy the 71 and somehow ended up with both. This is a 125 with a working Haban sickle bar. Anyone impressed? Anyone?
I thought I got a great deal until I started buying genuine kohler parts for the 71 rebuild. WOW! $$$$$$$$$$$

Bob
 
Picked up another cub just to get a temporary engine for my out of service mod 70, 7hp. Owner wasn't sure what model he had. It has seen quite some abuse in that a lot of holes have been drilled, homemade brackets added, and the wiring from the regulator was just hanging in a clump. Surpringly the engine started and ran quite nice no noise or smoke so I bought it. Turns out it was a mod 100. It didn't have the pto clutch or basket or bearing, but judging from the parts lookup I should be able to swap those parts from my of service mod 70 to the 100 engine while doing the engine transplant. I'm no mechanic so I think I'll start by washing both machines to get the oil and greese of the 100 especially. Don't know what I would do without this forum! Thanks.
 
Bob,

The 181 is a correct replacement for a 161. A PO may have short blocked the tractor with a 181. The dealer may have had a 181 on the shelf when an engine was needed. This is not unusual. You are just suffering through a little learning curve. I would sit down and measure your parts and compare to the Kohler manual and then get the correct parts you need.
 
I think I'm closing in on why my 108's PTO to mower deck belt keeps popping off. I'd like to get it figured out before ruining my third belt. It seems the forked/slotted part of the deck subframe that slides over/around and pivots on the cross member keeps slipping off. Not sure why yet, but that part of the subframe was welded in the past and the very tips of the fork may have worn down or broken off so it drops. I've always had trouble getting that fork into position. It always seems like its too long to get on that cross support, and yet too short to stay on there under strain.

Could this cause the belt to pop off?

Does anyone have a picture of how this forked/slotted part should look, or have measurements of how deep the fork/slot should be?

My grass is almost 10" in the back yard...
 
Here's a pic of whats left of mine...
191360.jpg



The upper tine is fully intact and not worn or broken, but the very tip (not shown) of the lower tine shows shiny wear from rubbing on the support/pivot bar.
 
Wayyne if your talking about the part that slides over the rockshaft all mine look like this

191364.jpg

191365.jpg
 
Jeff B: They all don't look like yours.... some look like his but not worn.

Wayne S: Have a welder reinforce the slot arms and you will be good for another 30 years or so...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
 
Well the grease and dirt are coming off. Found an old faded sticker on the gas tank of 7hp, but on the engine spec plate it was a K181. Spec 30564. The chassis serial number 98894 is in the range of the 70/100 series so now I am guessing I have a mod 70 with a 8hp engine from a model 86. Still think they will swap (fingers crossed).
 
Justin H.,and Bob P.,
BTDT and got a t shirt. Parts are very expensive, but worth it. I spent almost 10 times what I gave for my 128 in order to get it to look like it does now. That's not counting over 400 hours of labor either!
Bob, I'm impressed, and want that sickle bar!
drool.gif

By the way, Justin, here's what my 128 looks like.

191369.jpg
 
Yup that looks like it Myron. Am I right that both tines on yours are the same length? Yours also seem straight whereas my lower tine has a definite upward slope, even on the original portion of the subframe. Not sure if that makes a difference or not but it would be nice to know for sure when I take it to the welder.
 
Marty - I wish my 129 looked like that ... Except HYDRO 'cause everybody knows that HYDROS are better
biggrin.gif


Gary - I meant the way your luck is going I wouldn't bet money on it. Hang in there though, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> Cub Cadets are worth it !

I've reloaded MOZILLA 3 times and still don't see Wayne's pic ... must be invisible
dunno.gif


Justin - I'm glad to see someone else has 4 acres of "stuff" in a 1 acre garage !

Workin' on my 1882 shift parts today. Not to spec and likely not going to be ... Had almost lost reverse.
 
Wayne - Now I got your pic. My 127 subframe fork is about like yours too so mine wouldn't help ya.
As for it causing your belt to come off , I don't think so because my fork was riding up on top of the rockshaft for a long time and it never threw the belt mowing. I missed the rockshaft with it once when I hooked it up and it stayed that way for a couple of years until I took the deck off.
 
Myron I didnt meen they where all like that, I have seen one like waynes but thought it was a odd. Do you know when and why the switch in "fork" was made?
 
Thanks Ken. I guess my only consolation is that mine is falling below the rockshaft not sliding above, and so maybe it is contributing to the belt problem because I can see upward slant on the belt at the deck pulley. I hope so, because I've exhausted my brain looking for other causes....
 
Wayne - There will be upward slant of the belt because the deck pulley lowers lower than level with the mule drive sheaves. Have you got the correct belt ? IF my forgetter isn't working again it's 3/8"x81 ... might ought to check the FAQ ...

EDIT: 1/2"x81" just looked at mine. Can't say about the angle though 'cause I have 2 flat front tires ... cheap CHINA! tubeless tires !!!

<font color="0000ff">EDIT EDIT:</font> I have 2 Donald front tires !
clappy.gif
 

Latest posts

Back
Top