-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through May 27, 2019
- Thread starter jharder
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2004
- Messages
- 81
- displayname
- Paul Van Benschoten
Marty, The starter I am using now was from a 147. I rebuilt that one 5 years ago but haven't finished putting the 147 back together yet.
I will rebuild the weak starter and maybe even finish the 147.
I had also upgraded the pos. and neg. battery cables because I thought they may have been the reason it wasn't starting easily.
I will rebuild the weak starter and maybe even finish the 147.
I had also upgraded the pos. and neg. battery cables because I thought they may have been the reason it wasn't starting easily.
mgwin
Well-known member
George,
If the spring you posted a pic of is about 5/8", it probably came out of the input shaft seal. (hope I named it correctly) Here is a pic of the seal.
Here is a closer pic. Notice the shiny spring around the center hole.
As for the pin punches, I use "roll pin" punches. They work great.
The end of the punch has a rounded tit that keeps them centered on the pin. This helps especially when removing coiled roll pins.
Charlie has the fancy Starret punches. I couldn't afford those, and had to settle for the economy set.
Notice the tit on the ends of the punches.
If the spring you posted a pic of is about 5/8", it probably came out of the input shaft seal. (hope I named it correctly) Here is a pic of the seal.
Here is a closer pic. Notice the shiny spring around the center hole.
As for the pin punches, I use "roll pin" punches. They work great.
The end of the punch has a rounded tit that keeps them centered on the pin. This helps especially when removing coiled roll pins.
Charlie has the fancy Starret punches. I couldn't afford those, and had to settle for the economy set.
Notice the tit on the ends of the punches.
Hey everyone I went out to mow with my 582 Cub Cadet and when I turn on the PTO or the lights it goes over to discharge. I checked the voltage with no load and it is 14 volts I tried another PTO and voltage regulator and same thing. Would it be the stator that would be all that's left with the charging system. Thanks, Joey.
Marty G.
I got mine off greedbay for $24.00 delivered.
I got mine off greedbay for $24.00 delivered.
mfrade
Well-known member
Joe B D., 13.8 to 14.2 is a fully charged battery and sounds like the charging system is keeping the battery full. The meters are not always "completely accurate". They certainly aren't laboratory grade. LOL
Run the rig around working it and maybe after 15 to 20 minutes, recheck the battery voltage. If it's still 14 volts, you're good to go.
Run the rig around working it and maybe after 15 to 20 minutes, recheck the battery voltage. If it's still 14 volts, you're good to go.
Wow!
Catching up here from last Friday. Hope everyone had a good weekend.
Charlie-
That's crazy about the Cub roll over. I'm glad the guy is all right. With my Cub I used to have rear ags with fluid in them and then I got new rims and just added wheel weights. That's when it started to feel top heavy for some reason. So I put the duels on so I wouldn't roll it. I will be sure to be careful.
On topic pic.
Catching up here from last Friday. Hope everyone had a good weekend.
Charlie-
That's crazy about the Cub roll over. I'm glad the guy is all right. With my Cub I used to have rear ags with fluid in them and then I got new rims and just added wheel weights. That's when it started to feel top heavy for some reason. So I put the duels on so I wouldn't roll it. I will be sure to be careful.
On topic pic.
lkortkamp
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2009
- Messages
- 280
- displayname
- Larry
Well, to finish up my "rattl'n hood" issue....I had some 1/2" thick foam seal tape from a project on my Mack. A couple short pieces stuck to the grille support(under the hood lip) and WOW...quiet!! Real quiet. Now I can hear the birds chirping while I mow.
Though the hinge pin is now trying to sneak out the left side again(no tension on it). Still need to upgrade that hinge.
Though the hinge pin is now trying to sneak out the left side again(no tension on it). Still need to upgrade that hinge.
mgwin
Well-known member
Real nice pic Shultzie!
Makes me wanna hurry up and finish my 100. It's gonna happen soon, hopefully.
Makes me wanna hurry up and finish my 100. It's gonna happen soon, hopefully.
How necessary is it to check the high rpm before using my rebuilt K-301 engine in my 129?
Ready to start using it but the mechanic who put together the engine for me indicated that the high speed limit (3600) really should be checked before using the tractor. He said he'd come out to my place and help with this, but he's also dealer and so sort of hate to bother him during the busy mowing season. I don't have a tachometer, but read about these non-contact laser tachometers that utilize reflective tape, so could easily pick up one of those. I didn't change any governor settings when reinstalling all the other components, nor have the carb settings been changed at all.
I appreciate thoughts on this and any other 'should do' items since I don't want to ruin several months of work - it's been a rather long process beginning with the original engine snapping the rod last summer. I really need to get this thing going again asap. Thanks for any advice.
Ready to start using it but the mechanic who put together the engine for me indicated that the high speed limit (3600) really should be checked before using the tractor. He said he'd come out to my place and help with this, but he's also dealer and so sort of hate to bother him during the busy mowing season. I don't have a tachometer, but read about these non-contact laser tachometers that utilize reflective tape, so could easily pick up one of those. I didn't change any governor settings when reinstalling all the other components, nor have the carb settings been changed at all.
I appreciate thoughts on this and any other 'should do' items since I don't want to ruin several months of work - it's been a rather long process beginning with the original engine snapping the rod last summer. I really need to get this thing going again asap. Thanks for any advice.
Keith, CCW = Counter Clock Wise. I believe you will still need the tachometer, David was giving instruction on how to adjust it. I have used one of those tachometers with the reflective tape to set the governor/RPMs on one of my Cubs and it worked great.
Feel like an idiot....after posting (but then had to leave the house for awhile) it dawned on me that ccw=counter clockwise. Senior moment I guess.
I have the manual and read about adjusting the governor. I ordered one of those laser tachs and so should be able to take care of this myself. If the tachometer shows @3600 rpm at full throttle, then I assume no further adjustment is needed (?) Is it ok to even run this at full throttle right away?
Anything else I should know with regards to running this rebuilt for the first few times? The dealer said about putting some oil in the cylinder before installing the spark plug.
I have the manual and read about adjusting the governor. I ordered one of those laser tachs and so should be able to take care of this myself. If the tachometer shows @3600 rpm at full throttle, then I assume no further adjustment is needed (?) Is it ok to even run this at full throttle right away?
Anything else I should know with regards to running this rebuilt for the first few times? The dealer said about putting some oil in the cylinder before installing the spark plug.
Thanks all for the creeper advice. Marty, thats the part I need to replace. I could have used Charlie’s last advice a week earlier...so I’ll plan to buy extra o-rings just in case. I need to check on the oil, but I’ll search the forums rather then start that topic again!
Still trying to wrap my head around how this governor mechanism works. When the throttle control is pushed, the governor spring stretches and the speed control bracket moves towards the right (while this happens the governor arm is being pulled to the left). Once the governor arm can no longer move farther, the speed control bracket continues to move towards the right. What I've always wondered, though, is how does this continued movement increase the rpm? The spring is being stretched more but I don't see where this would have any effect on other components. Is there something behind the control bracket that continues to affect engine speed even though the governor arm is no longer moving any farther? Guess I'm having trouble with how to set it since apparently I don't fully understand the mechanism and how it functions. Thanks for any clarification.
