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Archive through May 27, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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jchamberlin

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 19, 2010
Messages
1,842
Location
Farmville, North Carolina
displayname
Jeremiah Chamberlin
If anyone's interested, I've given all my terminals the dielectric grease treatment. Anything to stop the corrosion! The only downside I'm seeing is that the grease seems to attract dirt.

The reason for the grease:

225649.jpg


The greased terminal:

225650.jpg


The back of the greased Terminal, Twenty hours in:

225651.jpg


You can also see the grease attracting dirt on the previous photo showing the bare, greased, terminal.
 
Bob H - you found that 1650 over in IDho. Dang, which side of the rock? This side or that side?

Yes, I'm over in the Puget-tropolis area, but there are a few CCs around. I usually head down to OR once a year to the Great Steam Up. Have to check into dates for this year.

Now - just what are you doing using a BFH on that 50A. It won't hold up to that treatment to many times. Don't be going and putting any cracks in her! I mentioned using a 3'pipe for leverage. That's about the biggest and nicest tool she should encounter. I may have noticed a slight ding in the front just left of the center roller. If she is giving you one of those smart faces, well then you might have to just go and straighten her out using a BFH. You might want to put a block of wood in front of her so the hammer marks aren't permanent.

If you haven't figured it out yet you can click on my blue name and see my profile. I see your e-mail sounds like "Real Short Stumpy" - where the heck did you come up with that? Sounds like one of those GKnats out East.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (even with Bob H around)
 
JC - thanks for posting those pics. If you're having fewer issues then it sounds like the dielectric is helping. I hadn't heard of anyone using it before but makes sense. Don't think that dirt will make much difference if everything is well covered in the grease.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (especially when they're covered in grease)
 
Need help, I need to know where the safety switch is located on a 123. I have the manual but cant fine the location. Tractor just died while running and wont start. Power to solenoid and key switch and coil but not starter?generator or regulator. what could the problem be. I'm thinking neutral safety switch. I n eed help with this.
 
Brad: I'm not sure about the narrow frames, but on all the Cub's I've worked on, the shaft connected to the brake pedal has a spring-steel actuator that depresses the neutral start / safety switch / brake switch that is mounted on tab connected to the chassis. The whole setup is very near the steering column.

I would try to get the tractor situated so you can move the brake pedal and watch the action of the shaft. There is a very good possibility that the actuator broke off at the brake shaft and there is nothing left to actuate the switch.

Even so, it doesn't explain why the tractor stopped, it only helps explain why it won't start. I'm re-posting a picture of the brake actuator over the switch. The picture depicts a a 1250, and so it may not apply directly to your model. I can only say that the 1x9 and 83 series have an identical or very similar setup.

225660.jpg


Edit: Hold the phone! After re-reading your post I realize that the brake switch isn't the problem if you're getting juice at the solenoid, that is, if the solenoid clicks when you turn the key with the brake switch depressed, and doesn't click when you take your foot off the brake, then the brake switch is doing its job. The problem must be elsewhere, like in a connection or the starter itself. If you jump battery power directly to the starter terminal of the solenoid (bypassing the solenoid), and the starter turns over, then the solenoid has a problem, if the starter doesn't turn, then you have to dig further.
 
Jesse, I have a 125 that had a bad knock when it ran.You could hear a klunk every two revolutions.We took it apart and found the camshaft had broke in two. When the motor blew the first time the connecting rod came and hit the camshaft. You could see the marks on it. Dave Ross, put a new coil and condensor on and it fired right up and ran for 2 minutes. It died and no spark at points again. Grrrr
 
A little help please. On a 44A deck. What are the dimensions for the bolts for the gauge (outrigger) wheels? The original bolt (is the terminology axle bolt or stepped bolt?) portion I have appears to have a diameter of 9/16", but the dealer tells me that the spec sheet reads 1/2". A manual sheet identifies the bolt as number 7, but I do not have the key page to identify that number. The 7" wheel has a plastic core and the hole is worn to every bit of 5/8" Also, are the guage wheels offset hub or not?
 
Melody, If you verify 12 volts at the + side of the coil when you lose spark at the points then its dirty points, bad points, a bad wire between the coil and points, bad condenser or a bad coil. Everything can be diagnosed with a multimeter.
If you lose 12 volts at the + side of the coil its easier. The switch is fed from the battery side of the seleniod and a wire from the I (ignition) to the coil. Make sure the grounds are clean and tight. An intermitant problem is the worst kind so check your wires for frayed ends, look for corosion and clean it up. Sometimes theres no big answer but by fixing all the little things big problems go away.
 
Gary: The common term for the bolt you're talking about is a "Shoulder Bolt." I'm not an expert on Cub Cadet decks, but if I were you, I would call one of the sponsors listed on the page, or shoot them an e-mail if you're overseas, they are far more knowledgeable than the dealers and can hook you right up. Also, check out the manuals section, the decks are described in the own manuals and are also found appended to many of the owner's manuals. You should be able to find your missing page.

Good luck, you've found a great resource here, the forum knows about all there is to know about Cub Cadets, but it sometimes takes persistance and patience on the part of the seeker. (A thick skin helps too, at times.)
 
Thanks for your comment Melody. my engine noise was'nt constan't. sounded like a loose eninge bolt to me but from what i've learnd here i'm pretty shure it was to much camshaft endplay. I'm going to put the engine back together today and hopefully drive that bad boy out the door if i don't run into anymore problems. (knock on wood) i love this 71 but wow it has done nuthing but kick me in the cubes since i dragged it into the shop back in january. Ya never know where that broken rod is going to go when it cuts loose. i've seen alot punch threw the block and break the delco remy bracket in 2. I've seen one rod destroy it's self and most of the engine because it had a casting defect. and that was a brand new kohler rod. i worry about that everytime i rebuild one now. thanks again to everyone for helping and being nice to this newbie.
jesse
 
Rod S.
Your fibbin to us again, LOL
Here's what you did,
225668.jpg

Here's what it should have looked like IF you had hit the enter key after each pic.
biggrin.gif

225669.jpg
 
Sooooo, The wife says there's a garage sale down the road today!
We drive by this as it wasn't in the sale,
225671.jpg

We buy nothing at the sale, but I had to ask if the ole Cub was for sale.
The old guy say why sure, but it needs a new battery and some tires.
So we go look at it a little closer,
225672.jpg

I ask how much, after he tells me, and I pick my jaw up off the ground and ripped my pocket off digging for money before he could change his mind!
225673.jpg
 
Nice find Charlie. How many CC does a person need? Trying to talk myself out of another one. Nice all original 107.
 
Thanks for the responce Dave. I'll keep tinkering with it evenually I figure it out.
 

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