no, i don't have a dial bore indicator but i did check the cylender using new rings and a feeler gauge and found it to be true and with in spec's. i keep thinking that if the rod was wrong or the piston and rings are wrong, should'nt i have found some signs of damage or wear? i don't have a way to run the engine out of frame but after this deal when i get some free time i will cut up an old frame i have and build a engine testing stand. it looks like we are building a check list. did you do this ? check, ok how about this ? check. lol but i think the list is about to end soon. thanks again for the help and ideas.
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Archive through May 27, 2011
- Thread starter jchamberlin
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- Allen Schumacher
James, as a starting point go up to the top of this page and click on 'FAQs', then on item 10. May give you some info.
Being a holiday weekend answers maybe delayed.
Being a holiday weekend answers maybe delayed.
I have a knocking engine question.
If one is trying to adjust a valve to lessen a knock would you increase the gap or decrease. My guess would be to go down or decrease. I just checked the exhaust clearance and it was right on .019 which is towards the upper end. The engine has been rebuilt or at least has a .010 over piston and seems tight with no smoke. I also removed the grenade gears. I had that deal with the ACR sticking so I was hoping I could take some of this noise out thinking the ACR might be contributing. It's just a guess on my part. I'm not that much of an engine mechanic but I'm pretty familiar with some aspects. Like Jesse was saying about his, this engine runs great...just noisy.
If one is trying to adjust a valve to lessen a knock would you increase the gap or decrease. My guess would be to go down or decrease. I just checked the exhaust clearance and it was right on .019 which is towards the upper end. The engine has been rebuilt or at least has a .010 over piston and seems tight with no smoke. I also removed the grenade gears. I had that deal with the ACR sticking so I was hoping I could take some of this noise out thinking the ACR might be contributing. It's just a guess on my part. I'm not that much of an engine mechanic but I'm pretty familiar with some aspects. Like Jesse was saying about his, this engine runs great...just noisy.
Personally i will work on valves untill i have them on the low end of the spec. i hate the tapping sound of tappets hitting the valve stem and besides that if the gap gets large then the valves won't open as far as they could and engine performance will suffer. i wish the cast iron b&s engines had adjustable lifters. i've never heard a cast iron b&s that did'nt have that annoying valve tapping sound. i wish my problem was only valves lol.
Wayne,
Reducing the valve clearance to the low end of the factory specs should quiet valve noise a bit. There are two other major sources of knocking noises on Kohler engines. The first is pretty benign, the mechanical PTO clutch disk tends to bump against the basket, particularly when it is disengaged. If most of the noise goes away when the PTO is engaged and under load, then the PTO is the culprit. Those clutches came with anti-rattle springs that fit between the dogs of the clutch disk and the basket, but more often than not they get dislodged and fly off into never never land.
The more serious issue is if there is excess clearance between the rod bearing and the crankshaft journal. The crankshaft rod journal should measure 1.5000 +0 -.0005. If it is much less than 1.4990, consider having the crank reground to a .010 undersize, and install a new connecting rod to match. A crankshaft/rod assembly with a serious wear problem is a thrown rod waiting to happen. A crank that is worn more than .005 out of round, particularly with taper or undersize wear is probably best put in the scrap pile. A serious wear problem can be detected by seeing if you can detect play between the rod and the crankshaft. If you already have the engine out of the tractor and the pan off, you might as well unbolt the rod cap and assess the condition of the rod bearing, and mike out the crank if you have it that far torn down.
Reducing the valve clearance to the low end of the factory specs should quiet valve noise a bit. There are two other major sources of knocking noises on Kohler engines. The first is pretty benign, the mechanical PTO clutch disk tends to bump against the basket, particularly when it is disengaged. If most of the noise goes away when the PTO is engaged and under load, then the PTO is the culprit. Those clutches came with anti-rattle springs that fit between the dogs of the clutch disk and the basket, but more often than not they get dislodged and fly off into never never land.
The more serious issue is if there is excess clearance between the rod bearing and the crankshaft journal. The crankshaft rod journal should measure 1.5000 +0 -.0005. If it is much less than 1.4990, consider having the crank reground to a .010 undersize, and install a new connecting rod to match. A crankshaft/rod assembly with a serious wear problem is a thrown rod waiting to happen. A crank that is worn more than .005 out of round, particularly with taper or undersize wear is probably best put in the scrap pile. A serious wear problem can be detected by seeing if you can detect play between the rod and the crankshaft. If you already have the engine out of the tractor and the pan off, you might as well unbolt the rod cap and assess the condition of the rod bearing, and mike out the crank if you have it that far torn down.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Kohler Knock:
Another source of minor, but annoying, engine knock in the Kohler's is the cam clearance. There are shims to set the end play on the cam. If these are set loose the cam is free to slap the block (end to end) as the helical drive gear loads and unloads due to valve train loading and resistance. I had a 16hp that would tick/tap like no tomorrow until I shimmed the cam to the tight end of the spec, then all was well.
Another source of minor, but annoying, engine knock in the Kohler's is the cam clearance. There are shims to set the end play on the cam. If these are set loose the cam is free to slap the block (end to end) as the helical drive gear loads and unloads due to valve train loading and resistance. I had a 16hp that would tick/tap like no tomorrow until I shimmed the cam to the tight end of the spec, then all was well.
Thanks for the fast help guys. I thought everyone would be outside enjoying the long weekend.
Btw...this engine is a K301 from a 129.
I have adjusted the exhaust back to .017 to see if that will help. I do not want to go into this engine again. I can only hope this will quiet the knocking to an acceptable level. That's all I want at this point.
Btw...this engine is a K301 from a 129.
I have adjusted the exhaust back to .017 to see if that will help. I do not want to go into this engine again. I can only hope this will quiet the knocking to an acceptable level. That's all I want at this point.
jfrederick
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- Justin Frederick
Cub 149 Driveshaft problems....I hope I can post this here??
Well I am a newbie here, been reading on the site for a while and wanted to ask a tech question...
I have a 149 Cub and I have been snapping the driveshaft pins like crazy, the hardened steel pins at the front of the driveshaft/rear of engine. So I put on a new driveshaft, rag joint at the hydro, new coupler on the engine...etc. Pin still snapped after mowing twice with it...
Engine mounts are perfect on this thing, everything is aligned properly. So now I run a double roll pin (not a coiled spring pin) and a hose clamp around the coupler to keep the pin from slipping out.
I am curious to know if there is any way I could modify this driveshaft, or put on a newer drive shaft to eliminate the pin? I mow all season with this tractor, I plow snow with it, I pull about a 1500lb packing wheel with it...I use this ole' Cub all the time. The engine is fresh and this Cub is all original...fun tractor, but not fun when you are stuck in the yard because of a cheap pin...any driveshaft suggestions?
Thanks everyone!
Well I am a newbie here, been reading on the site for a while and wanted to ask a tech question...
I have a 149 Cub and I have been snapping the driveshaft pins like crazy, the hardened steel pins at the front of the driveshaft/rear of engine. So I put on a new driveshaft, rag joint at the hydro, new coupler on the engine...etc. Pin still snapped after mowing twice with it...
Engine mounts are perfect on this thing, everything is aligned properly. So now I run a double roll pin (not a coiled spring pin) and a hose clamp around the coupler to keep the pin from slipping out.
I am curious to know if there is any way I could modify this driveshaft, or put on a newer drive shaft to eliminate the pin? I mow all season with this tractor, I plow snow with it, I pull about a 1500lb packing wheel with it...I use this ole' Cub all the time. The engine is fresh and this Cub is all original...fun tractor, but not fun when you are stuck in the yard because of a cheap pin...any driveshaft suggestions?
Thanks everyone!
