Archive through May 24, 2010

[jmacdonald]

Well I contacted the seller and it's the entire tractor he is selling. So that illiminates the starter/generater bracket issue. He said the engine runs, doesn't smoke, but starts hard. Otherwise pretty rusty for what I could get out of the conversation. Going down to look Friday afternoon with my trailer.
He wasn't sure of the model other than is was a 10x something.

 

[wmiller]

Andrew, If the hydro control lever moves by itself there is a friction adjustment on the lower end. The manual gives the procedure to adjust it and the specified amount of resistance. Things sometimes get pretty crusty down in there from the battery acid over the years,so don't be surprised if you have to remove the shaft assembly to free up the adjusting nut. If you haven't already,it probably needs the oil and filter changed. Moisture build up(condensation) in the hydro oil is a common occurance. The differential and hydro share the same oil,so you change the hydro oil by changing the oil in the differential. Remove the rear diff cover to change the oil (will need a new gasket).

 

[jmolaski]

Battery - No Charge - Latest Findings

Well - with the key off and the positive battery cable removed, there is a reading of 1 volt between the cable and the battery post. As I sit here and look at the wiring schematic, I was baffled by how the charge is making it to the gauge, but not to the battery. Now, I'm not sure the gauge is even working - but with the engine running, I have 14 volts at the gauge and I have 14 volts at the positive battery post.

I guess I will run it for awhile and see what happens! Here's a quick question, though: according to the schematic - the starter is wired to one post on the "magnetic switch" while the positive battery cable and wire from the charging indicator go to another post. Do these two posts matter as to which way current flows? Another words - will having those two posts wired backwards prevent the battery from getting a charge?

 

[mgonitzke]

James-

If you are getting 14V across the battery with the engine running, then the battery is charging. The fact that you're getting voltage between the positive battery cable is why the battery is not staying charged -- something is draining it while the tractor is off. You should have 0V there. Pull the connector off the ignition switch, and then see if you still have voltage between the positive cable and positive terminal on the battery with everything off. If that doesn't do it, I'm suspicious of the solenoid. I'm gonna go play with a new one I have and see if I can come up with a way for you to test yours. Normally I'd say replace it with a known good one, but I realize not everyone has a box of solenoids to pick from. Back in a bit...

 

[mgonitzke]

James-

Here's how you can test your solenoid: Remove it from the tractor, and then do the following series of resistance tests on it.

1) Between the metal part of the case (ground) and the "S" terminal (small terminal): 3-5 Ohms

2) Between the case and either of the large terminals: Infinity

3) Between both large terminals: Infinity

4) Between either large terminal and the "S" terminal: Infinity

If it fails any of these, replace the solenoid. The solenoid from an early 90's Ford Explorer (IIRC) will bolt in place of the original one, and will work just fine. It has an extra terminal that isn't used. The last one I bought was about $6.

 

[cledford]

Evapo-Rust: rust remover - anyone use it?

I found this stuff at tractor supply yesterday - anyone use it? It seems almost too good to be true - but I bought some and dumped a bunch into a plastic container last night and darned if every bit of rust on everything I put into it was gone this AM. There was no stink, no heat, no bubbling or frothing - just rust gone after about 8 hours. The stuff is expensive! About $20 per 3/4 gallon - but it seems very gentle, effective and doesn't leave any sort of residue I could tell.

I guess besides the expense, the only other drawback is that part needs to be fully submerged. So it seems best for smaller items. I’m not sure how reusable it is either. I tried using white vinegar to de-rust some cast iron one time and it stank, bubbled up and the vinegar was nasty after just 24 hours. (It did work however…) This stuff seems to look the same as it did when it can out of the jug. I’m thinking I can reuse it (will store in a 2nd container, not put back into the ½ used container)

Thanks for any input.

-Calvin

 

[vthomley]

My new-to-me #30 Kohler carb did not have a spring inside the bowl, is it supposed to? Please let me know, thanks.

 

[ljones]

I gues I will have to get a new head gasskett and put it on the right way. On my head the spark plug hole is offset the one charlie has at ccs is centered whats up with that?

 

[rnajecki]

JAMES - When I replaced my solenoid on my 782 I got it at Advance Auto. It was a GP Sorensen SS94Z for $9.44

 

[dross]

Calvin I've used that, works good. I get some stuff at Orilies that will coat the inside, can't remember it's name, comes out like honey drys and becomes like rubber. It's red, coated the gas tank in my 72 2 or 3 years ago. no problems yet.

 

[fcurrier]

Vincent:

Unless you mean the sneaky little "spring" on the inlet needle valve, and I think they're more common to the Walbro carb.

 

[rnajecki]

I'm clearing my mower deck to apply Slip Plate. There are bits of dried grass in the pitted nooks and crannies, like an English muffin. The wire brush on my electric drill doesn't seem to get at it. Any tips on what works to soften/dissolve this grass so I can flush it away? I thought of paint remover, but someone might have a better idea.

CALVIN - good info on the Evapo-Rust. I'll give it a try on this project after the bits of grass are gone.

 

[aforbell]

Thanks to all who have responded so far! I came to the right place! Time to get the hands dirty and dig into the hydro friction adj. and change fluid I'll post some "before" pics soon and down the road hopefully some after pics but for now 127 is a working work in progress! I'm sure I'll be back with more questions Thanks again Andy

 

[scole]

In the Mower Deck leveling FAQ it refers to point "C" Could someone tell me where point "C" is. I don't have mower deck manual for my 102 and 38in deck cast iron ends.

 

[kweaver]

Front Hangers

 

[scole]

Thanks Ken

 

[kweaver]

That's a link incase you didn't click it ...

 

[kweaver]

<font size="+2">FRANK C.</font>

 

[scole]

Ken - Yes I did click it. Thank you very much. Actually the front hangers for my deck are points "D" I have a 38in pin on deck. Somehow I got to get the front to come up. The eye bolts are adjusted as short as they can go and the front still hangs lower than the rear. I do have some wear on the fork I could fix but I'm not sure that would make that big of difference.

 

[mgonitzke]

Calvin-

I've used it and it works good, but it looses its strength after awhile. It's also far too expensive to use for much. I used it for awhile on the 100 I restored last summer, but decided it'd be easier to set up a couple of electrolysis tanks instead, and that's how I wound up cleaning most of the parts.

Roy-

You might be able to burn the grass out with a small propane torch. If you're putting slip plate on it, you need a base of some other paint. Since you won't get rid of all the rust without sandblasting, I'd recommend this paint that Rustoleum makes that you can apply over rusty metal. I've used it on a couple of decks and some other stuff and it works great. Then you can just put your slip plate over that.