Archive through May 23, 2014

[dschwandt]

Harry, That's how I did it with the "S" mark, meter and points at .020" following Matt G's procedure as outlined in the article on his web site. I have to admit just how surprised I was at how quickly and easily it started the 1st time.

I will give the timing light a try some time this weekend as soon as I get a head lined up.

I did another 321 the same way in 2012 and it has been my main snow thrower and plow rig since w/no problems at all.

Thanks Guys for the support.

 

[kide]

David: if everything was flat last time ( I use valve grinding compound on plate glass and machinist bluing to check for flatness), I suspect your head bolts are bottoming out before clamping the head.. You may want to run a bottoming tap down all the bolt holes and then run the bolts in without the head on and check the distance between the block deck and the underside of the bolt heads.. Obviously it should be less than the thickness of the head...

 

[danderson]

With a 301AQS having a ring gear on the flywheel are the timing marks still there? I have the timing hole on the shroud but I also have a hole in the bearing plate on the starter side. Wondering which hole I need to look in for the timing marks.

 

[hydroharry]

Gerry - you might be onto something. Never thought of that.

David S - if you used Matt's procedure with the meter then the timing should be correct but I'd also use the timing light. I think Gerry's comments about the bolts bottoming out, at least in some of the holes, might just be the problem.

Doug - yes the timing marks should still be on the flywheel and you should see them thru the site hole in the shroud.

 

[hcooper]

Doug with the 301AQS:

I'm not 100% sure, but the timing marks on other iron Kohlers are behind the fan shroud. Why not pop out the shroud plug, pop out the spark plug, and then rotate the engine until you have compression, then a bit more to approximate top dead center (unless you can test for this with a small screwdriver), then look at the fan casting and see if there are marks someplace near the center of the hole. I know they get hard to see with rust and suxh on that casting. If you do see the mark, dab it with some white or yellow paint. I recall it should show a stamping of "SP" or "S" with a horizontal line.

In reality, if the ignition point gap is supposed to be .020" (I don't have my book here at work), and if you set them to that gap, then your timing should be fine.

Regards

 

[jgoodine]

Just want to say tks to Aaron at Xtreme, recently made an order,Service and Product was great, tks Aaron,

 

[danderson]

Looking into the hole on the shroud I see the ring gear to the right. Would the marks be behind that? I'm trying to figure out where to clean the rust off.

 

[hydroharry]

Doug - the timing marks should be directly across from the site hole (as you rotate them into view). You shouldn't have to look at an angle to see them.

 

[bwittman]

Doug A. et el:

I have wondered the very same thing. I have never found the timing marks on my K-301AQS.

 

[jmacdonald]

I've got a mod 70 with a cast iron deck. Tip to tip on the blades is ~42" so it must be the 42" model. I'm doing maintenance work on it. My deck has the idler pulley #7 simply bolted into the slot on the deck skin. Parts look up shows a tensioner with parts #29, #30, and #31. I eyeballed my deck and can't see where the tensioner would bolt to the skin other than in the mounting hole for part #9, and that doesn't seem right. I think I am looking at my deck as the IH numbers for #2, #9, and 21 agree. Didn't find a number for the skin. In the operator's manual there is no mention of a tensioner. I have searched the forum, before asking, and also tried to find a service manual for this deck without success. Up to now I've adjusted belt tension by moving loosening the bolt and sliding the pulley in the slot, but I am wondering if the original owner changed something or the picture is not my deck or not correct?

 

[kostendorf]

I would bet the belt tensioner its self bolts in the slot with the pulley on it instead of the pulley by its self bolted to the slot. Did I just make any sense???

 

[hydroharry]

Keith O - I think I understood what you said but not sure I know what you mean (does that make sense)?

James Mac - I've seen a few of the 48" decks that have that same long slot to mount the Idler Pulley. Never had a Cast End deck myself. Maybe if Charlie sees your post he'll comment or come up with a Service Bulletin tucked away in electronic version that didn't get burnt up. I'll bet there is a Bulletin that discusses updating the deck and where/how to drill the holes for the tensioner arm bolt and spring mount, etc.
In my view, if your deck has been working well by just just bolting the Idler Pulley in the slot then I would continue to use it that way. I did wonder if your Deck Operator Manual discusses how much tension to place on the belt.

Doug and Brian - I've had a few of the K301AQS engines and don't recall them being any different than the K321AQS that I used all the time. The site hole for the K321AQS was for certain on the left side not far from the air cleaner. I don't recall for certain on the K301AQS. I recall some of the K301 (not AQS) having a site hole on the right side around the area of the S/G mount and some having that hole in the bearing plate, but my memory is not clear on where the Timing marks were on that version. I can only suggest that you look thru the hole in the bearing plate and go thru the complete crank rotating watching for the Timing marks. If you don't see them then they just have to be on the side of the flywheel that you see looking thru the hole in the shroud. Sometimes it is a real bear to find the marks - they get all rusted over and just don't show up. You may have to go thru putting the piston at TDC and looking for the marks, and you might have to do it twice if you happen to be on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke.
Keep us informed on what you find.

 

[dtanner]

Harry

My 125 the timing mark hole is on the opposite side from the points in the shroud half way down where the flywheel would be under the shroud .

 

[sshaff]

James M -- I refurbished five of those cast-end mower decks of this type several years ago. The tensioner on each was the bolt-on type. The later stamped decks used the spring loaded tensioner. At the time I concluded that same tensioner could also be installed on the earlier decks (thus the reference in the parts lookup). If I remember correctly, though, it would have been necessary to drill an extra hole to accomplish this.

 

[jmacdonald]

Steve that solves the mystery for me. My deck is all cast iron. I finally located a picture of a similar deck all cast iron deck (in much better condition). There is no sign of the spring loaded tensioner.
I'll take Harry's advice, and leave well enough alone. Thank you both!

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - yup, all those IHCC units that were shipped to the wrong side of the border had things on the opposite side. Do your cars and truck have the steering on the right? (hehehe - just had to thro in a jab here).

Actually Don - that's what I recall about the non-AQS or older S/G version 12hp engines (K301A or K301AS). The timing site hole was on the right but still in the flywheel shroud. Some I had still had the little plug in the hole. BUT, the S or SP marks were still seen directly thru the site hole (no bending your head side to side to see them). Sometimes you do have to look up or down in the hole if the timing is not dead on - but that of course means the timing is off. The timing marks have to be seen "dead-nuts" horizontal to the hole.

James Mac - my advice ain't the Holy Grail (but pret'ner). I don't believe your deck is quite "all" cast iron. I believe you still have a steel section where the 3 cast pieces are mounted (even tho I never had one). I'm thinking your Idler Pulley will actually mount to the steel section. If I'm wrong please let me know (won't be the first or last time). One thing further I would recommend, is to install a washer on each side of your mounting bolt. I believe you need to spread out that pressure of the pulley so it doesn't crack the deck area around the mounting hole.

 

[jsosbe]

Hello. I recently bought a '62 Original on a spurr of the moment deal. I had hopes of finding a tiller attachment but I'm having issues finding information on what model tillers would be compatible...or even if it is possible to put a tiller on these years. I have lots of questions but for now this is what I'm after. Thank you for any input!

 

[digger]

Jason S.
A tiller is a tiller!
Buy one made for old Cubs and put it on!

There's an advantage to old Cubs, they make it so we don't have to over think the options!

 

[jsosbe]

Thanks Charlie..ok so next question..creeper gear. Can I use one for a narrow frame or does it have to be specifically for the original?

 

[mmasheris]

Jason you need a Danco UD6 creeper made only for the Original Cub Cadet.They are pricey but around,probably find one on Evil Bay