Archive through May 22, 2009

[dross]

Mike, I just helped a guy rebuild a K301, had to undersize the rod journal. Machinist bored out the bad rod to use a bearing insert from a continental engine. We'll see how long it lasts but I've talked to pullers that swear by it.

 

[rneubauer]

A few pics of my 12 year old son (Ryan) running the new to me 1650 with dual hydraulics. Don't let him mow yet, but he enjoys driving it around.

I have decided to name the UGLY red 1650 Gill, for obvious reasons

Sure does cut nice though (let him ride after I finished cutting)

 

[ewank]

Any stock kohler we work on we bore the rod and put a bearing insert in it.

 

[sstanton]

I checked out my NF hydraulic lift for leaks and it is leaking out of the pulley shaft. Is there a seal in that? Or is it a sealed bearing set up? Also I guess I'm going to need parts for it seeing that almost everything is NLA. Would anyone know if parts from something else will work? Any kind of help would be appreciated.

 

[kide]

Evan:
Do you reuse the old rod or use a new one? I've read lots of opinions on aluminum rods that essentially say that due to their ductile properties, they have a definite lifespan and should be replaced due to fatigue failures.. I was just rereading David Kirk's thread on building the Killer Kohler and see he used the K361 forged AL rod.......

 

[dplogman]

Hey all- 122 cub with non original seat- if I wanted to remove the ripped up cover from my seat and put a new cover on where could I buy a cover? It's got a metal pan under the cushion part. Thanks! Dave

 

[sstanton]

David, I would check a local upholstery shop to see if they could do it. Or check our sponsers above.

 

[ewank]

Done mostly new rods. Offset bore them sometimes also. Alcoa rods are stronger but not nearly as strong as an aftermarket.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David P., if you have the fiberglass pan AND the blue edging, what ever you do save that blue edging as it is NLA! Sounds like you have a replacement seat as you mentioned a metal pan... The 122 should have the white vinyl with white fiberglass pan with blue edging. I had one reupholstered a few years back, it's not 100% correct, (note the seam), but that's OK it sure looks nice. I have not yet put it on a tractor it's tucked away in a safe spot waiting for me to get one of my 125s refurbished to put it on. On my #2 125, which is my main work tractor, I installed a black vinyl seat cover from Fleet Farm on it many years ago and it works great, looks OK IMO. I have the blue edging for it in a safe spot in the shed.

 

[mmorrison]

Dave I never thought of stuffing a baring in there. there is always next time. I am looking for a 122 I thing it would make a good puller. But there are not many cubs in the ruff left were I am. at lest not that I have found yet.

 

[dcharette]

Hey guys,Mike M. beat me to the CCO so the search continues here in SW Ontario.I'm going to look at a 1250 tomorrow.Is there anything that i should look at or check out on it?
thanks
Dave

Mike M. how's the "O" workin?

 

[cgraninger]

Hi all,
Looking for some wisdom. I have a 128 gear drive I just got done fixing the gears.
It wouldn't shift because of internal issues.
They have been resolved but now I think there is a problem with the shifter itself.
I basically have to hold the shifter with two hands to make sure it is leaning to the first/reverse or the second/third side.
It moves the shifting forks up and down fine.
I don't have to do that with my 126's shifter.
Also the shifter will spin in circles if i want it to...but I can't tell from the parts exploded view what is actually wrong.

any and all wisdom is appreciated
Charles

 

[pfunk]

Scott Stanton, someone posted the following some time ago concerning that seal in the hydraulic pump:

You should also replace the shaft seal(IH-347478-R91). You can buy this seal at a parts store(part #CR4911). The original seal in the pump was wider then the CR4911 seal and if it gets pushed to the bottom there is an oil passage that can leak around the seal. I recommend to use 2 seals to be sure it doesn't leak and tat will put the seal at a different place on the shaft.

I don't recall who posted this, but that's what I did with mine. Hope this helps.

 

[dross]

Charles, Kraigs prolly busy or he'd be on this. The the shifter shaft has broke loose from the "cup" inside the cover. I fixed a 1200 I bought 5 or 6 years ago. That tractors not here or I'd go look but I think a pin holds the assembly together take the cover off, drive that pin out, The handle slides through the cover, with the assembly on the bench the broke weld is obvious. weld it back together from inside the cup, make sure the outside of that cup stays smooth, it really is an easy fix, good luck.

 

[digger]

Dave C.
If it runs good and the engine ISO/Rubber mounts are good and you like it, buy that sucker!
The only down side is, it most likely will have manual lift, but if by chance it's got hydraulic lift, all the better.

 

[jteasdale]

Good morning everyone. I broke the cast bottom part of the steering column of my 100. I was mowing a steep hillside and hit a fencepost. The front wheel got hung up on the post and I cranked the wheel a little to hard and split the steeing box in two. I have another column that I am pretty sure is out of a narrow frame. Are the columns all the same length for the narrow frames, or are they different? Is it possible to separate the tube from the cast housing and just replace the broken part, or should I just swap the whole thing out. Is the tube pressed into place? Thanks.

 

[mstetar]

there is a few screws on the top of the cast part holding the tube into place, it slides right off, you may want to compare steering arms tho, i believe some of those were different, i know the original one was

 

[dfrisk]

JEREMY - Had to chuckle at Your misfortune, I split the steering gearbox in Our old CC 70 in about 1970, got the frt tire "wedged" under a 1000 gal. LP tank! Not sure how much the replacement gearbox cost but I know it had to be less than I paid for one for My 72 about 6-8 yrs ago.

The steering tube is just pressed into the casting, only difference between gearboxes is the length of the tube and the steering shaft inside. You'll have to swap both the tube and the shaft, probably easiest to just swap the whole gearbox. There's an "FAQ" that explains all the details of disassembly/reassembly.

I "Modified" the gearboxes on My 72 & 129 years ago because they were totally worn out enough the tubes were coming loose from the castings and the top thrust bearings were pushed up too far and not supported by anything. I cleaned everything up, dropped a spacer that was 1-1/2" outside dia with 3/4" dia hole down the tube, drilled & tapped machine screw threads into the spacer through the casting & steel tube into the spacer. The spacer supported the thrust bearing really well, three or four #10-24 mach. screws is enough, use #12-24's if You can find them.

 

[sstanton]

Paul, thanks a bunch for the info!

 

[bbowman]

Charles G.;

The easiest fix is to come and get this spare 128 transmission out of my backyard! LOL!