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Archive through May 21, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Tom Flynn: Anti Rattle Springs
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This pic used to be in the FAQs, but I couldn't find it there. SEARCH function helps!
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Back on May 16th I posted that I'm having problems with my PTO belt on my 982. Well you guys requested pics so here they are.
The first one shows the PTO. Is the big washer a counter balance?
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Next is all pictures after a loosened the belt slightly to try to keep it from slightly rubbing. I think it should be fine. Your thoughts please? I've had other mowers that rubbed worse than this and the belts seem to last a long long time.
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SHULTZIE - Hot sure what that big washer is, my 982 is the samwe way.

Everything looks routed correctly, if you still have problems throwing the belt off one thing some have mentioned here is to "Turn the belt around", by turning it inside-out and reinstalling it. The idea is once a belt gets used to running a certain way it doesn't like running in reverse.

I'd adjust everything on the belt & deck so the mule drive belt doesn;t run anywhere and has some clearance. The new mule drive belts for a 982/50C deck are over $50 now. I'm still nursing along the one that was on my tractor when I got it 12 yrs ago.
 
BILL J. - re your K341 & new K321 engines. Easiest way to tell the two apart is the K341, 16 HP is the Only Kohler to have TEN head bolts. The K321, 301 & 241 all have only nine. Once you get inside the engine there's many oher differences but thats the easy way to tell without tearing the engine apart.
 
Shultzie, in your 3rd photo down, it looks like the belt is angling up from the mower deck pulley. Is it, or is that an optical illusion? Check the deck and sub-frame mounting points for wear it could be causing a nose down condition. My 42" deck on my 125 was worn at all the mounting points causing it to nose dive and it started to throw the belt. I had to have it welded up. Thanks to Art Aytay's welding skills it's like new!
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Dennis - I bought an oil pan for another Kohler K series for use in another color tractor of mine and I noticed when I asked the guy I was buying from (he had several Kohlers setting around) what hp, he started counting head bolts. Good advice.

I've got a lot to learn regarding these IH Cub Cadets. It's kind of like starting over at 1st grade again trying to know the ins and outs of these machines after stuffing my brain with other color tractor info.

It's funny (or maybe not), I have read a pile of info on these tractors and most of it is focused on pulling moldboard plows, towing an overloaded cart, pushing or blowing snow, etc. What I don't see is a lot of posts around that highlight the quality of cut for these Cubs. Everyone talks about how great the Simplicity cut is - and there are pics/posts of that stuff everywhere (and I've got a Sovereign type tractor too), but for whatever reason, the biggest suprise to me on the IHC side of tractors is (my limited observation) how little is said/posted/pic'd of these premium tractor's mowing abilities. I know they will give a great cut - I just enjoy reading this kind of stuff.

I may try to get the cradle mod done this long weekend and the engine back in the 1650. I'm not to concerned I'm putting back a 14 hp engine. I'd like to see how this tractor runs/feels and gradually wade into a full-up restore with the K341 I've got on the shelf now.
 
BILL J - A lot of things determine how well a CC deck mows. Sharp blades & dry grass are a MUST. The baffle around the blades really helps get the clippings out of the deck & distributed evenly too, no windrowing. The other thing is how tall the grass is and how high or low you mow. I typically mow either 3 or 3-1/2 inches tall and try to get the lawn mowed when it's 4-1/2 to 5 inches tall. The decks are supposed to be set lower in front than at the rear by about 1/8th inch (measured on the blade, not the housing) so only the front arc of the blade mows, reduces the load of the deck on the tractor and really improves the look of the finished lawn. If you lower the front of the deck too much the outside blades end up mowing higher than the center blade, makes for a poor looking result IMO. The deck has to be level side-to-side also, and gauge wheels at all four corners helps with that a lot. Tight spindle bearings support the blades so they mow parallel to the ground, or at least the deck housing and keep the decks from streaking the lawn.

I've spent a lot of time, and some money over the years getting & keeping my decks in shape, borrowed a few ideas from other makes of decks and I think both decks, a 50C & later 38" 3-blade deck, I mow with do a real nice job. I put a roller behind the center blade under the deck housing on the 50C a couple years ago and it actually stripes the lawn like a Simplicity deck now. Of any deck I've had that 50C takes more work to get set properly and mow consistently. The fact it has the same mounting brackets as a 38 or 44 inch deck but mows 50 inches wide makes adjustments that much more critical.

The other factor that effects how well CC's mow is how fast you travel when mowing. I find any speed greater than about 3 MPH really has a detrimental effect on mow quality. It's easy to adjust speed on my 982/50C but I get my choice of either 1st gear in the 72, 2.3 MPH, or 2nd gear, 3.9 MPH, so I end up crawling along mowing with it but the lawn looks great when I'm done. The old #70 was going to be my dedicated mowing tractor since it has the slow 2nd, 3.2 MPH, but it sounds like SON has dibs on it, at least I'll get my 982 back!

And yes, these old Cubbies do a great job pulling a plow too, the all gear drive powertrain just takes that kind of use all in stride.
 
Shultzie

Not to get off topic (if there is one I guess) but I spied a pedal tractor in the background of one of your pics and I'm curious as to what it is.

Thanks
 

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