Archive through May 21, 2010

[dtanner]

Wayne Steffens
I guess your talking about the mule drive belt tenisoner? I would buy a carrage bolt and bend it in a vice and two nuts and that should do it.
I know Kentuck has great ideas and might have something to say lol.

 

[snicklas]

Randy,

I have a 1450 and I have noticed to acheive the mowing height that I prefer (I tend to mow in the 3-4" range) that I have the cam adjusted to where the lift hits it at the end of the adjustment right before it really dips back in toward the bolt.... and that is at the "lowest setting" (meaning the greatest distance between the bolt and the outside of the curve) so I believe what you are seeing is normal. I have found that I have the rear gauge wheels set that when they are about a half an inch off the paved drive or street is just about right.....

 

[fsnerd]

all i am trying to do is trouble shoot this in a way that eliminates possibilities.
but every time i try, someone says to check something else first.

so, eventually ,i will eliminate possibilities.

the rust in the gas tank has been eliminated.
the leak in the exhaust has been eliminated.
if moving the governor spring does not work, i will put it back and try spraying carb cleaner instead of gas into the carb when it starts to stall.
i assume , if it does not stall, it is a gas starvation issue.
at that point, i can try carb settings.

everything was causing stalling when i got it. overheating due to a mouse nest in the fan shroud, exhaust leak.
many parts had to be replaced, because they were shot, and they might have added to the stalling problem.
coil, carb,points, condenser,coil wire,spark plug,wiring harness,etc.
head had more carbon on it then metal.

i am slowly getting there, but when it only stalls on full throttle when a load is applied, i am not certain if i should try adjusting governor spring or carb settings.

which is why i post here.

 

[snicklas]

I am having a problem with the PTO on my 1450......

After the tractor is up to normal operating temperature I have been having trouble getting the PTO to engage. When I first start working it is fine, but after it is warmed up, it does not always engage when I turn on the switch. I am fairly sure it is not an electrical issue, as I have the battery charged, and when I flip the switch I see the ammeter move slightly toward D as it should. I have found that I can "trick" it into engaging by ideling down, flip the switch, and throttle back up. As soon as the RPM's increase, it will catch and work until I shut it back off.

I have taken an air gun and blown all the dust off and out of the engine, and have blown off the clutch area. (Has a crapsman that would need blown out occaionally). This has not helped. Is there any adjustments or anything else that I need to do to it? This has just started this season, and has worked fine the last 2 seasons. This tractor has a replacement block, from the PO and the PTO has not been off the engine since I have owned it. This is one of the "black" PTO's not a silver one.

 

[jbaker]

Matt or someone that knows: I am trying your static timing on my 1200 that wont start it did have a few hard backfires before the starting problem.

When trying to time I have continutiy at the points no matter if they are open or closed, although when I disconnect the wire from the coil at the points I do get a break in continuty when the points begin to break open.

I hope your going to say I have a short in the wiring and not a internal engine problem.. please help I need to use this tractor

 

[wsteffens]

They call it the main belt (for the mower deck) in the manual, but it sounds like thats what you're talking about. The stock part is over $50.....no thank you.
It sounds like its a bolt, nut and washer on one end (the hangar-adjustment end) and a flat plate welded to the other end that ( I presume) bolts to the pulley arm.

 

[rnajecki]

Scott,

Regarding the 1450 PTO problem - have you checked the air gap measurement?

 

[rwilke]

Don T.,
So what was the outcome of your repaired tire leaking again?
Was the stem of the new tube junk?
Did they replace it for free?
Did they leak check the second one this time?

Just curious.......
Ryan Wilke

 

[mgonitzke]

Scott N.-

Sounds like the air gap is off. The service manual tells you how to adjust it. <font size="-2">Maybe I need to do another how-to...</font>

Jeff-

If the points are visibly open and you have continuity, it's not internal. Do you have the test leads on the ohmmeter connected to the right places? (One grounded, one on the terminal on the points that the coil wire connects to) You might have a short in the wire than runs from the coil to the points. Disconnect the wire at the points to eliminate it. Also, make sure you have the coil itself disconnected from the points, or it may do what you're describing.

 

[kide]

KentucK:
Editing pics right now...
Jeff:
Never mind - Matt said it... (some VOMs have a low resistance scale that can see the difference between points closed and open with the coil connected..)

 

[rnajecki]

Scott,
Here are photos of the PTO on an 82 series which shows the air gap dead center of the first photo, between the bluish metal at left and the grayish material at right. On the second photo I'm measuring the air gap. Tighten/loosen the three hex nuts to adjust the air gap.

Matt, I emailed you a 'how-to'.

 

[jbaker]

Matt I connected 1 lead to screw that holds the wire to the point the other lead to the notch in the point frame at the top, with this set up I have total continuity with points open or closed. when I disconnect the wire at the points (I already have it disconnected at the coil) and the points open I do lose continuity,,,,so, if I understand you that means a bad wire from the points to the coil and not an internal problem

 

[dtanner]

Ryan D Wilke
Well the young wipper snipper,told me there is nothing wrong with the tire or rim to make the tubes split. So this time I bought an ATV tube 23x10.5x12 for 33.65 and.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff-

Yep, that sounds like a shorted wire.

Roy-

Thanks! That slipped my mind. I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to put other people's how-to's on my website as well as my own. I've had a couple of people send me stuff.

 

[wsteffens]

Looks like the carriage bolt idea is going to work perfect and save me $50. Thanks for the brilliant idea Don

 

[dfrisk]

FRANK S. - Followed your stalling issue since the first post. I think your issues are plugged passages in the main fuel needle of your carb. You can screw it out from the top of the carb body with the carb installed on the engine.

On the initial carb setting listed in the Kohler manuals they are ONLY reference settings, adjustment WILL be needed. I remember seeing a chart here with settings for idle & main fuel by Kohler engine model. Those settings were better but "TUNING" is still needed. If someone has that chart maybe a repost now would help.

If the governor is hunting & surging the first thing I'd check for is a LEAN fuel condition. Don't even need a screwdriver, just crank the top mixture screw a half a turn, 180 degrees and see if it settles down. If not then something internal in the carb body is plugged. Like Ken, Gerry, Paul, and many others here know, running lean is really hard on things.

 

[dtanner]

Dennis F
I have that chart here on my wall K301 low idle 2 1/2 turns High idle 2 turns to start with.

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - Since you asked soooo nicely

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - The hunting and surging could be throttle shaft bushing wear too.

 

[gsmyth]

Is it possible to post an exploded drawing of a IH ST745 Spindle? Also which decks/models that they were on other than a 44A. I am breaking down one of the side spindles to find a looseness problem. I cannot get the 1 1/4" nut removed as the spindle/pulley turns with the nut. Putting a blade back on and blocking the blade with a wood 4 x 4 has not resolved the problem. Any other tricks to remove this nut?