Archive through May 21, 2007

[dfrisk]

CHRIS - I'd double-check that the PTO clutch, transmission clutch, etc. are not making the knocking sound. At low RPM there shouldn't be enough cylinder pressure & heat to cause spark knock. If the engine was running O-K and pulling the load well before the tune-up there shouldn't be enough carbon in the combustion chamber for the piston to hit the underside of the head.
My old K-241 knocked for the last 10-15 yrs...it's the PTO clutch...engage the clutch with no belt on the pulley and the pulley wiggles back & forth. My new K-321 will knock also....same PTO clutch going on it.
May also be something simple as a leaky muffler...If Your close inspection doesn't point to anything simple pulling the head & wire brushing carbon build-up would be next. Soft copper wire brush for a drill, torque wrench, feeler gauges are required. Compressed air helps to remove the carbon once loosened. Might be best to have an automotive machine shop HOT TANK the head for You to remove carbon & dirt/oil accumulation on the outside of the head. Plus check it for flatness on a surface plate.

 

[jmeacham]

Chris: Did you check the timing with a timing light? A little to far advanced will cause a knock.

 

[mschairer]

Hi:

1st cut of the season for CCO S/N 4740 (My son has been layed up, and I use CCO S/N 12199) Blades bogged down, didn't cut. I tried tightening the lever adjustment to tighten the belt (3 turns), no improvement. I know it's time to drop this deck and sharpen the blades anyway, but long muel drive belt looks warn as well. Could this be bogging the blades? The Grass was heavy, but 12199 handled it with clumping, but cut. Oh yes, 4740 cut fine last fall.

Any help out there???

Mark

 

[tgallagher]

A buddy of mine has a 128 that he needs the belt length for.

It's the PTO to mower deck belt, non cast ends.

 

[kide]

Tim:
You need a little more information - once you figure out which width the deck is, go Here and check under question 4.

 

[kide]

I've got a theory on Chris's "rattle": If the timing was late before he re-timed it, the combustion "bang" would have been softer. With proper timing, the power stroke is more violent (flat trackers will recognize this as "bigger bang") which could make the clutch pack (or other loose items) rattle louder.....

 

[dclinansmith]

David E, Alan T. Just before that procedure to repair the relief valve was posted I did the same repair on my 682 without cutting the valve on the lathe or welding it back together.I did use my lathe but only as a 3 jaw vise to pull it apart.It was crimped together at the factory and to be honest it never occured to me to weld it. Welding is out of the question for me anyway,I have a pacemaker and have to steer clear of welding. I thought the procedure in the FAQ was great,I just wasn't aware of it when I did mine, it still hasn't leaked.

 

[tdrudis]

I picked up my roto tiller today and felt the need to share. Man what a drive clocked over 200 mi today. Anyway after figuring out I needed to remove the trailer hitch I got it put in place. Just had enough time to snap this photo before running out of light. And yes my other cub got jealous and had to be in the photo.

 

[dsauve]

Did the culitivators for the cubs come in black as well as white, got an opertunity to pick one up?

 

[tgallagher]

thanks for the chart kendell. he has a 42" so it looks like a 1/2" x 80".

 

[mtoney]

Mark, I would change out both the main mule drive belt and the smaller belt from the center pulley to the left pulley. While your at it, make sure the deck bearings feel good, sharpen the blades and check the cogged belt. Let us know what you find out.

 

[tdrudis]

Dean
since nobody smarter than me has answered yet I would say no. Cubs/IH items are usually white, yellow or red. Although I don't know what it looks like and it could have been painted at one point in it's life.

 

[digger]

Dean S.
Older Brinly stuff was white. The newer stuff is black.

 

[cscannon]

JAMES - I did use a timing light

DENNIS - I will check the PTO next. I do have it engaged with no belt on it. However I have been running like that for over 3 months without any noise.
I will pull the head and clean it anyhow. I've been planning on doing it for a while.

Thanks for the tips.

Chris C.

 

[dsauve]

Thanks Charlie, the guy I got my snowblower from has one sitting in the weeds. I may trade him work for the culitvator. The frankenstein bolt on the one side came out and needs to be replaced, small priceto pay for a cheap culivator.

 

[dsauve]

I don't want to start the price argument but, I am looking for a website or to that can give me a value on the equipment I have. I am setting up all my bussiness insurance and need a price. I appreciate the cooperation. I spent an hour and can't find anything to help.

 

[rchristensen]

David C.
Did you consider what would happen if the end of the relief valve comes off.....All those little peices are going straight down into the hydro and if they do it will cost a lot more than a $100.00 for a relief valve.

 

[digger]

Dean S.
Your looking at a replacement cost for a 1250 and a 95 electric?
Pics would be nice and also the condition of both as well.

 

[kweaver]

Tim - I don't know about your other cub getting jealous but I know that I am ... that you had enough money to buy a tiller AND pay for 200 miles of gas !

I work all day/night then come in here and I'm all alone except for this stupid echo I keep hearing ...

 

[mwaltz]

I have a question for any/all QuietLine historians regarding the 1000. It's well known that the 800 was eliminated from the line during 1975 after about a year of production but was the 1000 similiarly eliminated from the line before 1979 and the final year of yellow and white production? I noticed while looking through my 1979 or "H" documentations that the specifications brochure only listed two gear drives, the 1100 rubber band drive and the 1200 garden tractor models. I researched another website which registers IH CC's and the newest 1000 listed is from 1978. Just curious.....