• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through May 18, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tstewart

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2008
Messages
243
displayname
Tristan Stewart
Tiller question... was hoping to get the new to me #2 tiller going soon since its getting past due for putting the garden in. Anyhow, I remember reading here about having to switch out the tensioner on the mule drive (I have WF) to a bolt. Well I was reading through the manual and was suprised that there were alot of pics of the tiller installed with the tensioner still in and was thinking well maybe I wont have to mess with it. Then I get to the one part that says to replace it (pg13) with:

Solid steel idler pulley
Idler adjusting bracket
Spacer
Plain washer 11/32 x 1 - 1/2 x .119 inch
Plain washer 11/32 x 11/16 x .056 inch
Nylon insert nut

I have to replace the pulley? And we're not talking about just a bolt I can get at the hardware store right... the picture shows the bolt is a part of the idler adjusting bracket - so this is something I am going to have to order?
 
I just had to clean my britches. I was driving the 109 to the mail box riding along and on the way back I learned I forgot to tighten the spark plug. She was running like a sewing machine when it popped out, killed the engine (of course), and I just knew the tractor I was so happy with just blew the hell up. I looked underneath for fluids and found none so when I raised the hood there it was just laying (lying? Ken?) there. I didn't even have a rag and yall know how hot it was. I inspected the threads and found nothing so I shirt tailed it back in to finger tight and off to the barn I went to tighten that sucker. We had a big rain yesterday so the garden is going to get some badly needed harrowing in a couple of days. I had just put a pair of wheel weights on her and was just thinking about how nice it's going to be getting her in the garden. She wouldn't be my first choice for the garden but she's new to me and set up, ready to harrow, and running like that sewing machine again.

Finally, a story with a happy ending.
 
Gary S:
If you've got a constant drip from the bottom of the Hydro unit, you've probably, as was just mentioned, got a bad cork gasket between the hydrostatic pump/motor unit and the transaxle. I have just completed R&Ring this gasket on my 129, taking about 100 pics in the process. In the next couple of days, I'll be posting pics and comments on this..

Mark Washington:
What you see is what you get.. The main forum is dedicated to IHC Cub Cadet garden tractors, you just check in every once in a while to keep up. The other topics are broken down pretty well...Other than that, learn to use the Search function..
 
Let's see if I can do this:
By Mark Washington (Mwashington) on Tuesday, May 18, 2010 - 06:56 pm:

First hello, I've been a past member of this site but just found some new interest for my Cub 125. Is there someway to view this forum by the posts subject? All I can view is just a page of all the current posts with no subject lines. I can't follow the discussions very well. What am I missing?
Thanks,
Mark
Mark: You can't just post and leave. You have to stick around, pay a bit of attention, don't be super-thin-skinned, and remember that when the cockroaches are eating dandolions, this might be the last forum left standing. I might get computer smarter because of this forum - I just copy/pasted.
Bring that 125 in here! Check this out if you don't think it's welcome:
Slant%20Tongue.gif
 
Hi everyone I am new to the site and according to the email from digger I am #5000

I have a 1650 that I just got from a friend of mine. I previously had a walkbehind mower and wanted a rider, looked at the cub dealer and got stickershock for what they wanted for a lawn tractor, if you can call them a tractor lol....glad he had the 1650 he wanted to sell, it is a way better made tractor than the new stuff.
 
Tristan: I have ran with spring and fixed position mule drives on my tiller. The fixed position seems to work best.
All I did was drill a hole in the spring loaded arm and put a bolt thru it and now its a fixed position, remove the bolt now your back to spring load.
 
Well, Doug, (#5,000) let me be the second one to say:
groupwave.gif
 
Doug Welcome.. so tell us more about the 1650 and post some pics of it. read the all the FAQs at the top also use the search bar and learn alot you have a big garden tractor not a lawn mower.
 
Jeff... I think I recall seeing a pic before of your mule drive with a bolt in the tensioner. Thinking about it... the thing I'd worry is getting it right since I have no experience with setting up the tiller I'd be afraid to start drilling holes in it. How bout vice grip tensioner?
whistling.gif

Or is that going to get me in trouble
uhoh.gif
 
Regarding the hydrostatic pump/transaxle gasket, I presume the OEM gasket is cork. Over the years I've read postings suggesting using neoprene gaskets. Is there an aftermarket neoprene gasket for the pump/transaxle? Any preference cork vs. neoprene?
 
Roy:
The replacement gasket from MTD is a 3M composite with an adhesive on one side (peel off cover) while the old one was a plain cork. I miked the new gasket at .070, the old one was .030. I put a little anerobic gasket sealer on the uncoated side while assembling and feel it'll last longer than the 30 or so years of the first one... I wouldn't go to the bother of trying to find other satisfactory replacement material and then cut as gasket..
 
Gerry,
Thanks for the info. Someday I'll get around to fixing the hydro creep and I know I'll need to uncouple the hydro, and thus need a new gasket. So far I've put it off 10 years.
 
Tristan-

It's easy enough to get a 5/16" eye bolt and a locknut, so why not just do it right?
 
Went out after dark last night to put four tractors away and the wife ask me if I sprayed water by the 129 loader. When and looked and saw a flat left rear with fluid everywhere. so I will have to find the leak this am
bash.gif
.I don`t know what would cause the tire to go flat ,because there are no nails around here in the driveway
1a_scratchhead.gif
Later Don T
coffee.gif
 
Mark, WELCOME BACK!
wave.gif
groupwave.gif
wave.gif


Here's how I feel about the Cub Cadet model 125.
proud.gif


190633.jpg


Doug, WELCOME!
wave.gif
groupwave.gif
wave.gif
 
Don T.,
Did you have just water in your tires...or did you have windshield washer fluid or a mix of RV anti-freeze mix?
The reason I ask is if it was only water, then maybe it rusted the rim enough to cause it to seep/leak out?

Were/are your rims in good shape or iffy shape, rust-wise?
Ryan Wilke
coffee.gif
 
Ryan D Wilke

Rims were in great shape when I painted them.They were loaded with chloride in the tubes. I will take the tire up and have it repaired and reloaded today. Can`t have the loader not running. I just hate to have to handle the wheel weights. A 75 lbs plastic covered and a IH 25 lbs. I find the weights are a pain to move around have a least one set for each tractor. later Don T
 
Okay Kraig, I'll bite. Why do you think the 125 is Perfection? I only have wide frames (149, 682, 782)so I'm not familiar with the model 125 state of bliss.
yummy.gif
 
Roy, Obviously Kraig is a highly inteligent individual
 

Latest posts

Back
Top