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Archive through May 18, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Darryl S
It's not known at this time which one was the first proto or concept Cub Cadet, although a picture in the IH Retiree News Letter I spoke of said this was the first "Cub Cadet". Here is another picture of it
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The Farm Equipment Division, Tractor Committee Report NO.49 says there were 3 Experimental models built at Engineering Center (Hinsdale,IL) for engineering test, and S/N 411 which belonged to Harold Schramm, is believed to be one of these 3. It is older than S/N 409. 411 and maybe the other 2 looked basically like the production Originals, as did the 10 Louisville proto's, which is the group 409 is from. Where this "concept" tractor and two similar ones fit in I'm not sure. They may have been mockups only, or they may have run, although I have asked three of the enginers that were involved in the design of the Cub Cadet about them (Harold Schramn, Allen Wolka, and William (Bill) Teaford) and they do not remember them as being running tractors. Mr. Teaford said he remembered that the powers to be did not like the rounded hood/grill and wanted it done again with a cast grill and cast front axle. The concept tractors with the Cub hood and or grill were probably built in Louisville, and the 3 engineering models built at Hinsdale were probably all similar to the production tractor because another tractor committee report (# 37 dated June 2, 1960) tells of the number of hours of testing done on the 3 experimental models. The 10 Louisville prototypes (409) were built Oct 5-14, 1960.
This is another version of the Cubette with a Cub grill
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and this is a version with a cast grill
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This is a recreation of the Cubette above that was built by Tim Delooza built from the bicture above. It should be at RPRU.
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Thanks for the welcome and the information, gentlemen. The 127 that I am considering resurrecting is my parts tractor. I could rebuild the engine, but I did that to my old faithful 127 a few years ago, and up here in Canada, that cost me more than the price of some of the tractors I see on Craigslist. I may hold out for a 147 if a reasonable engine donor doesn't present itself. That extra 2 hp would be nice with the snowthrower.
 
Allan, did you ever contact Don Tanner (Nova Scotia) or Frank Currier (No. Maine) about whether they could help you locate a 14X ??
 
Good afternoon all. Been a while since I posted - hope everyone is having a good spring full of lots of projects. My neighbor and I took a tree down on our property line yesterday and it got me thinking...did anyone ever design or manufacture a stump grinder for a cub cadet? I'm thinking something that would mount on the front of the tractor driven off the front PTO and raised/lowered with the implement lever. Anyone ever heard of anything like this?
 
Brent:
Stump grinders are a pretty heavy duty piece of equipment. Imagine dropping a crazed rototiller running 3600 RPM onto an oak stump. Cubs are tough, but honestly, it'd be pretty rough on one..
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well im excited, i found a 109 on craigs list, went to check it out, and left with more then i thought, the lady's father died and had all kinds of car stuff, he had just re-painted most of the tractor, the mower deck looks brand new, and down over the hill i spoted a snowthrower for a narrow frame, little rusty but free! $100 for the tractor, $50 for a nice set of torches, $100 for a 100 ton press(looks brand new) im going to pick it all up tomarrow and ill get pics then, the 109 is missing a few pieces but i should be able to get it all together.
 
Kendalls' right, I've gotten to use one of those a time or two.....ok, more like 20 times. There hard on the body too.
 
Yeah, my thought is that it'd be pretty rough on the cub too, but I think it could be done. After all, the vibration would be the worst part I would think. I imagine that if you went light passes with it that it could be done. Much like you wouldn't use a dremel tool cutting wheel to do the work of a chop saw. Both can cut through pipe but you can't just rip through with the dremel. But I digress...

I was just curious if anyone had ever heard of such a thing. I checked the archives and found nothing but I can't imagine that somebody somewhere hasn't tried it?
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...but yesterday I saw how well Slip Plate (or its equivilent) works. In 2006 I sold a 129 to a friend in town and he's mowed 3 summers with it. Yesterday we had to take the PTO clutch off and re-adjust it, so we pulled the deck to sharpen the blades, too. After 3 summers of mowing with no maintenance I was very impressed with how clean the underside of the deck is.
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BTW, we had a hard frost last night. Might as well live in Minnesota!
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Morning Frank. package arrived today from CCS. it usually takes 12 to 14 days
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and this time customs got a hold of it and added another $20.00 to the price
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.some times you just can`t win.lol later Don T
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Kraig,

I know what you mean about hydro speed control & implement lift. Had a big issue using the front blade on my 1250 compared to the 125. When I put the ported hydro & hydraulic lift on it,I fabricated a new lift handle on the left side instead of the right-
so much easier.
 
Kevin Hill (Kphill)
AWESOME!!!! I only had to let it run for about 5 minutes, and it is now working FINE!!!!
After 8 years of sitting outside, half assembled, no hope, IT IS RUNNING AND MOVING UNDER IT'S OWN POWER!!!!!!
I even drove it around the back yard!
Then, I drove it back in the shed and put the Heat Shield/Exhaust brace back on, and tightened those 2 head bolts back down (oops!)....
One thing, I noticed that with the Deestone ags on the back and old, almost smooth (wide 16x6.5 - 8) tires on the front, it tends to not want to steer. Is this normal?
I know I need some Tri-ribs on the front, but would it help to put the narrow tires on the front?

Thanks again for all the help!!!
 
BRENT - I made an "attachment" to grind stumps about 20 yrs ago for the front of My 72. Angle iron frame that attached to a frt mounted bracket that held a jackshaft mounted on two self-aligning bearings that ran off the frt PTO, and two pillow block bearings holding another shaft with a taper-loc hub with four 10" tablesaw blades bolted to it spaced about 1/4" apart, used the driveshaft from my QA-36 snow blower to connect the two shafts, lift link like a snowblade uses to lift/lower the attachment. I used it to grind off a couple small stumps and broken off fence posts around the farm yard of the house I was living at.

It worked, but was fairly slow compared to commercial machines because the old saw blades were already dull and none of them had carbide tips on the teeth. The commercial machines use large carbide bolt-on teeth that really take a chunk out of the stump and the old saw blades just couldn't get a bite. At the time I had a K241 (10 hp) engine in the 72, I didn't run the engine over half throttle because the QA-36 driveshaft's u-joints aren't rated for that much speed & HP.

After grinding off a couple of the worst stumps & posts I took the thing apart and saved the shafts, bearings, & steel. The bracket that attached the thing to the 72 I actually made to be the frt weight bracket for the tractor, and now is the sprayer pump mounting bracket for My new yard sprayer Kraig post pic's of a couple weeks ago.

The whole idea was sound, mounting the grinder to a 700# Cub Cadet sure takes all the work & vibration out of running the thing, but if You put anything much bigger than tablesaw blades on the thing with good sharp carbide teeth I think You'll run out of HP pretty quick unless You really slow the blades down by putting a fairly large pulley on the driven shaft, something 8-10" in dia.

I can't for the Life of Me remember the name of the company in Pella, IA that makes most of the big commercial stump machines, they make big round hay balers too. Oh well, It'll come to Me about three seconds AFTER I hit enter to post!
 
Dennis, you are thinking of Vermeer. Husquvarna makes a walk behind stump grinder that does work decent but I have heard it is a lot of work to use. It has a 10" main plate that is at least 1/2" thick that the carbide teeth mount to. It turns at engine speed. The frame is very heavily built.
 
WES - That's it! My Cousin has one of their big commercial machines.
I've seen the smaller walk-behind machines at rental places. I keep thinking something in between size-wise would be handly, but expensive I'm sure. Maybe something PTO powered off a farm tractor.
 
A few weeks ago I discovered that my rear end on the 106 has a broken tooth in 2nd gear. I was able to score a set of first, second and third pulling gears for 34 dollars shipped. Are pulling gears the same as regular gears?
 
Kraig, i`am looking for info on my sleeve hitch to use my B plow to turn some sod, but i can`t seem to find much info anywhere. I have a 40x50 garden to plow in the am and want to get it set up today.Thanks Don T
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