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Archive through May 17, 2012
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Well, here are some numbers from my conpression check
Cold: pumps up to no more that 15 PSI
Hot: pumps up to 85 PSI and jumps to 90 PSI when cranking stoped and stays there for a while.
What do Ya' think, Dave K??
Dave S
Cold: pumps up to no more that 15 PSI
Hot: pumps up to 85 PSI and jumps to 90 PSI when cranking stoped and stays there for a while.
What do Ya' think, Dave K??
Dave S
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Wayne/Harry/Patrick-
Wayne is correct, the spacer is in the right place relative to the throwout bearing. I think I got confused due to how 'up-close' the pictures were at first. Looking at the pictures again I can't actually tell if you have the spacer and teaser spring in there correctly. At any rate, Wayne has provided the correct orientation. Patrick, the picture you posted is incorrect. The 86/108/128 have the same throwout lever as the QL gear drives do, which is different from either the NF or 82 series throwout lever. The wear on your lever is not excessive and won't make a difference here. Verify the correct orientation of the spacer and spring. Then adjust the clutch as per the manual. It looks like the throwout arm angled with the bottom part forward too much if it was in the engaged position in your pictures. The arm should be nearly straight up and down, I think. Adjust the clutch such that there is a very slight gap between the lever and the bearing with the clutch engaged. Do this by adjusting it until the bearing touches the lever (you can tell by rotating the bearing by hand) and then back off the adjustment slightly until you can no longer feel the bearing dragging on the throwout arm.
Dan H.-
No changes are necessary.
Wayne is correct, the spacer is in the right place relative to the throwout bearing. I think I got confused due to how 'up-close' the pictures were at first. Looking at the pictures again I can't actually tell if you have the spacer and teaser spring in there correctly. At any rate, Wayne has provided the correct orientation. Patrick, the picture you posted is incorrect. The 86/108/128 have the same throwout lever as the QL gear drives do, which is different from either the NF or 82 series throwout lever. The wear on your lever is not excessive and won't make a difference here. Verify the correct orientation of the spacer and spring. Then adjust the clutch as per the manual. It looks like the throwout arm angled with the bottom part forward too much if it was in the engaged position in your pictures. The arm should be nearly straight up and down, I think. Adjust the clutch such that there is a very slight gap between the lever and the bearing with the clutch engaged. Do this by adjusting it until the bearing touches the lever (you can tell by rotating the bearing by hand) and then back off the adjustment slightly until you can no longer feel the bearing dragging on the throwout arm.
Dan H.-
No changes are necessary.
pfitzwater
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
- Messages
- 74
- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
you Guys are right, I have the teaser with the cup faceing the throw out bearing. What Matt explained about adjusting the lever, is that what the manual is talking about, 9/32 clearence or something? becuase what Matt said made sence, and I was confused with the manual. hope this solves my current problem, thanks guys I know my wife will be happy the yard is mowed and I am not "fiddleing" with the tractor
- Joined
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- 2,912
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- Allen Schumacher
mgwin
Well-known member
Patrick F.,
Maybe this will help some.
Maybe this will help some.
pfitzwater
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
- Messages
- 74
- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
thanks Marty. That's the diagram I had been going off of. to me it looked like the cup of the spacer was facing the clutch plates. and every one said that was backwards. so I made it "more backwards"
I wasn't able to work on the tractor tonight. Hopefully I will before the weekend.
I wasn't able to work on the tractor tonight. Hopefully I will before the weekend.
hay guys whats the length of the spacer for the cluch i see it in Patrick James Fitzwater (Pfitzwater pis of his cluch i had replaced the spring (4) in digram 3 times now and i was thinking about puting the spacer in i just didnt know how long it needed to be
Chris,
This link is just a tad long but maybe it's what your looking for. http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ARIPartFinderView?storeId=10051&catalogId=14101&langId=-1#/Cub_Parts/288_Hydraulic_Angling%2c_190-288-100/Hydraulic_Angling/04004530-A/040045300001
This link is just a tad long but maybe it's what your looking for. http://www.cubcadet.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ARIPartFinderView?storeId=10051&catalogId=14101&langId=-1#/Cub_Parts/288_Hydraulic_Angling%2c_190-288-100/Hydraulic_Angling/04004530-A/040045300001
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
A new, high back seat and a new Cub Cadet 50th Anniversary cap. I'm stylin'! Gives a new meaning to "Life's short, drive a Cub Cadet naked!" Thanks, Charlie!
Also, Congrats to Charles on Graduation. Best of luck to you in the future!!
Thanks to Kraig for the link, too. I haven't quite got it to work for me, yet.
Also, Congrats to Charles on Graduation. Best of luck to you in the future!!
Thanks to Kraig for the link, too. I haven't quite got it to work for me, yet.
Frank, when you have an image open in VuePrint that you wish to resize, click on File, then select "Resize..." from the drop down menu. A resize window will open in the middle of the screen, select the size in pixels that you want the image to be resized to, note that you should have "Preserve aspect ratio" checked. Once the image is resized, click on File and select "File save as..." from the drop down menu then give the file a new name (note the file name menu in the lower left) so that you do not overwrite the original file. I give the generic camera file name a descriptive name such as "CC125_01.jpg" then if it's not in the folder that you want it to be saved in, browse to the folder you want and click save at the lower left corner. Hope this makes sense.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
I took some pictures of a Crab apple tree here and was unable to get them down lower that 100 . so I gave up lol. Frank, I know it is a pain when these confusers won`t do what we want them to do.
I took some pictures of a Crab apple tree here and was unable to get them down lower that 100 . so I gave up lol. Frank, I know it is a pain when these confusers won`t do what we want them to do.
Don, Frank, one other tip. Once you have them resized and saved with VuePrint, open them with MS Paint then do a "save as" and save it with the same name to overwrite the file and the file size should be smaller in size. Just do NOT do this with the original file, you don't want to overwrite that...
Dan I understand the kt-17 series 2 is the same as the series 1 aside from more oil journals to lube the rods and higher oil pressure.it should plug right in. Mine did.The magnum 20 is also the same basic engine as the series 2 with electronic ignition and maybe an oil filter.
I was looking for Information to determine the wear limits on the mower deck spindles on a 44c deck. I didn't find anything. with the blade mounted in the spindle I can get about 1/8" of movement up and down at the tip of the blade and the bearings are quiet.
I want to keep the the thing in perfect shape but I suppose when the spindle is bad, you replace the worn parts, so I wondered when is it time $$?
John
I was looking for Information to determine the wear limits on the mower deck spindles on a 44c deck. I didn't find anything. with the blade mounted in the spindle I can get about 1/8" of movement up and down at the tip of the blade and the bearings are quiet.
I want to keep the the thing in perfect shape but I suppose when the spindle is bad, you replace the worn parts, so I wondered when is it time $$?
John
Quick engine question...
I have oil leaking from the crankcase breather. I opened it up and removed everything to check the drain hole back behind the tappets. I stuck a dental probe in the hole and it bottomed out. I continued to "feel" with the probe and felt no edge/ledge as I went in slowly pressing against the side of the hole. Bottom line, it felt like a bolt hole that's never been tapped. Doesn't this hole just open up to the inside of the crankcase? (Yes, that's my question) I realize I may be showing a little ignorance here but I finally have a good engine in the 129 with a good basket pulley and all. It only smokes on start up and seems strong. I was pulling tin off to get ready for the second head bolt torque when I noticed a drip which led me to the breather plate. All gaskets are new plus the wad of fiber (filter?) and the rubber spacer.
Dennis? David K.? Any engine guys will be appreciated.
I have oil leaking from the crankcase breather. I opened it up and removed everything to check the drain hole back behind the tappets. I stuck a dental probe in the hole and it bottomed out. I continued to "feel" with the probe and felt no edge/ledge as I went in slowly pressing against the side of the hole. Bottom line, it felt like a bolt hole that's never been tapped. Doesn't this hole just open up to the inside of the crankcase? (Yes, that's my question) I realize I may be showing a little ignorance here but I finally have a good engine in the 129 with a good basket pulley and all. It only smokes on start up and seems strong. I was pulling tin off to get ready for the second head bolt torque when I noticed a drip which led me to the breather plate. All gaskets are new plus the wad of fiber (filter?) and the rubber spacer.
Dennis? David K.? Any engine guys will be appreciated.
