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Archive through May 17, 2010

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kmcconaughey

Keeper of the Photos
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Kraig McConaughey
Paul O., it sounds like you may have a sheared Spirol pin in the drive shaft to Hydro pump connection. This would be in the area under the tunnel so it's kind of hard to work on. You may have to split the tractor. The Spirol pin will most likely appear to be OK as in the two visible ends will look OK. It would be friction of the cast coupler and broken ends of the Spirol pin on the hydro input shaft that is causing it to work with a light load.

190470.jpg


190471.jpg


190472.jpg


Look in this area for the Spirol pin.

190473.jpg
 
Thought I would wash some of the dust off the 129 loader.I like a loader around lol.I hope be able to do some Cub work soon.
190476.jpg


Might even get replumed this summer ,I hope
Gerry this is all your fault.
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Thanks

Kraig, I now have to figure out what the driveshaft is supposed to look like for the 127, because the one on it looks to be Homemade. And it doesn't look quite the same as some of the others I have seen.
 
Paul O - Low fluid , filter needs changed , drive shaft pin sheared , trunnion needs repaired ... take your pick and check ALL.

Check the FAQ above for some directions on some repairs and be sure to check the second FAQ page from the first.


Eric - I was thinking that the 127 might not have the shroud but I wasn't sure if I remembered right. I wasn't going to jack mine up and look ... besides you asked if one should be used ;)
 
Hey Ken,

It's okay, I asked and you answered honestly. Right now I am waiting on a fan and pto lever the one in front of engine and also a mule drive and this one is ready to work, til i get the 128 fixed.
 
KENtuckyKEN,
Are you referring to the "white sludge crap" found behind the rear cover of the hydro?
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If so, then yep.
I think that is mostly due to water intrusion, isn't it?
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...such as water coming in thru the breather while power-washing is being performed?
Ryan Wilke
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Eric, I believe it should look just like the one on a 125.

190478.jpg


Here's what a 125 drive shaft looks like, see above.

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The engine should have a coupler like this bolted to it and a solid dowel pin would be inserted into hole in the drive shaft to mate to the coupler.
 
Ryan - Condensation mostly over years of not being maintained.

Eric - Your cost is adding up. You'd better get something working soon.
 
Wayne, hmmm, then I'll modify my stance to say that I believe the fan shroud was dropped sometime during the 1x7 series production run. I believe that the hydro skid plate was also dropped during the 1x7 series run. Just curious does the S/N of your 147 put it early or late in the production run? Though according to this the 147 was late in the 1x7 series production.
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190481.jpg


In any case I believe the fan shroud is not needed or else it would have been used in some form on the 1x9, QL and 82 series.
 
Ken,
I was actually able to make a few dollars off of the donor 147 that the PO had litteraly cut into pieces with a torch, I was able to make a few dollars back ny selling a few pieces that could actually be salvaged from it, the rest unfortunately was sold for scrap.
 
Kraig - My 127 has the shroud screws on the topside but I don't remember if it's actually got one. I tried to hold the camera up under it but all I got was a real nice pic of the filter !
 
I didn't read that ... not one freakin word of it ... I didn't see anything about a torch
 
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
my 147 2050041u350894 has both fan shroud and hydro skid plate
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I know ken it was hard for me too, but the guy chopped it up to make a custom made tractor, he was going to do the 127 the same way if I had not have bought it.
 
KENtucky, if the screws are there the fan shroud is most likely there as well.

Perhaps the fan shroud and skid plate were dropped after the 1x7 series run...
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Neither were used on the 1x9, QL series or 82 series.
 
Jeff and Matt thanks for the info.

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) on Sunday, May 16, 2010 - 09:26 pm:
Good luck finding something that doesn't need any work. I've had over 40 of these things, and not a single one, including the ones that were "running and mowing" could be put to work without some new parts. Count on having to rebuild the carb since it's been sitting, and since it's a QL, it's going to need engine mounts.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

<font size="-1">Well I didnt say I was expecting to find a perfect tractor, both of mine have taken a few parts here and there. I will be quite happy with "running an mowing". Just dont have money or time to have to rebuild an engine, etc. The more I think about it the more I think I'm going to have to pass this one up, but I suppose its worth checking out atleast. I admit I was getting a little excited when I read the ad but 'havent run in 4 years' was kinda left out of the posting(as well as any pictures)...</font>
 
will any k301 fit my 128?
guy on ebay has a K301AS from a 123.
mine is a K301A.
looks the same except the gas tank appears to be attached to the engine.
 
Ok so I am unsure if the shroud was ever on this one, if it was it was removed and never put back on, so would it be safe to say that I could use it without the shroud?

So far it has been debated as to if they actually hed them or not, so I am assuming that it wouldn't hurt to use the 127 with out the shroud, and the drive shaft is homemade, I will post pictures soon to show you what they did to the drive shaft.
 
FRANK - An engine in a stock installation in a 123 should fit into your 128. And a 123 should have a K301A, special oil pan only, no special sound proofing, or bendix style starter.

You will need to swap your chutch drive plate with the three pins in place of the drive hub the hydro 123 uses like Kraig posted for Erick. The PTO clutch may or may not be similar depending on age of your 128 and if it has the brake. S/G should bolt right up. throttle & choke same thing.

Gas tank bracket should be easily removed from the new engine, and keep your steering pedistal mounted tank. Unless you do some additional repair the swap should take an hour, less with power tools!

Do we DARE bring up removing balance gears again?
 

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