Eric, as I mentioned the later series do not use a fan shroud of any sort so you should be OK without it. As long as you have the fan you should be OK.
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Archive through May 17, 2010
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
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Eric - Mines got one according to the screws. I knew I had one on one of the IH Cubs. I looked at all the parts I took off the 129 and there's not one in the parts pile and I know the 122 didn't have one.
But you own it so it's yours to do what you want ...
Hey guys I've got a thought !
We have beat cub cadets to death over the years trying to fix this and fix that ... Helping others diagnose problems via print ... kinda like beating a dead horse .... SO .....
Let's all go out and buy a JD and start over
I mean no more repeats of the same debates and same questions ... well at least for the first couple years !
<sub>Crawling away in shame ....</sub>
But you own it so it's yours to do what you want ...
Hey guys I've got a thought !
We have beat cub cadets to death over the years trying to fix this and fix that ... Helping others diagnose problems via print ... kinda like beating a dead horse .... SO .....
Let's all go out and buy a JD and start over
I mean no more repeats of the same debates and same questions ... well at least for the first couple years !
<sub>Crawling away in shame ....</sub>
well, this cant be helping.
I drained the gas tank into my car, all but the last cup or so. when transferring gas, i never transfer all of it, in case there is water or crap in the bottom. the last cup gets discarded.
so, i pour the last cup into a plastic garbage bag and look what i found,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dCpnRDtnoM
this was after the tank had been cleaned a while ago. tank must be rusting.
so, before i go any further, i think i need a new tank.
and, would you guys recommend removing carb and cleaning,as well?
also, this rust would cause a stall when hot or cold, correct? so while this might be part of the problem, it cant be the only problem, can it?
I drained the gas tank into my car, all but the last cup or so. when transferring gas, i never transfer all of it, in case there is water or crap in the bottom. the last cup gets discarded.
so, i pour the last cup into a plastic garbage bag and look what i found,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dCpnRDtnoM
this was after the tank had been cleaned a while ago. tank must be rusting.
so, before i go any further, i think i need a new tank.
and, would you guys recommend removing carb and cleaning,as well?
also, this rust would cause a stall when hot or cold, correct? so while this might be part of the problem, it cant be the only problem, can it?
KENtucky, I'll cut you some slack, you had been away from the forum for quite some time. Must have spent too much time fishing or some other waste of time.
KENtuckyKEN,
LOL!
Well, one thing would be certain, we'd stay busy........
Like I tell my 'friend' who owns a <font color="119911">JD</font>,
"Well, as long as you one at least one JD, you'll never have to worry about your tools getting <font color="ff6000">rusty</font>!"
Ryan Wilke
LOL!
Well, one thing would be certain, we'd stay busy........
Like I tell my 'friend' who owns a <font color="119911">JD</font>,
"Well, as long as you one at least one JD, you'll never have to worry about your tools getting <font color="ff6000">rusty</font>!"
Ryan Wilke
Frank - Before I look at the vid I just want to remind you that some time ago I mentioned ALL the problems I had with my 1882. It was so bad I had to replace the 2 petcocks / line / filters and I went as far as to buy a spankin new tank even though the tanks are plastic.
But someone said they had good gas and new line ...
or am I confusing you with someone else as everybody's problem kinda runs together after a while ...................
But someone said they had good gas and new line ...
or am I confusing you with someone else as everybody's problem kinda runs together after a while ...................
i did say i had good gas and a new gas line, and i do. the gas was only a week old, the gas lines were replaced when i bought the tractor, as they needed to be replaced.
the gas tank was drained, rust flakes removed, when i bought the tractor.
the gas tank was drained, rust flakes removed, when i bought the tractor.
Frank, check out the link to the FAQ that I posted below. I've done the procedure, outlined at that link, to a tank that I have and it worked quite well to remove the rust.
elamott
Well-known member
I am getting my tiller ready to go and I wanted to check on the lube that goes into the right angle gear box in he back. Does this take a 80/90 gear lube? The manual does not say but I think that is what is in there. Also is the one in the front (for the snow blower) the same?
Thanks for any help
Earl
Thanks for any help
Earl
FRANK - I know We've discussed this before but the eight quart tank on a 12 HP CC is three sections soldered together and you can not clean the one section very well if at all unless you use liquid chemicals and rinse & neutralize the chemical. Try to reclean the tank as best you can, B-B's would work the best IMHO, rinse, and drain the carb & clean all the passages & especially the long needle and main jet running thru the center of the carb. (See Matt's write-up)
I put a new plastic 8 qt tank on my 72 when I put the K321 in. The little 5 qt tank left over from the 7 HP K161/181 would not have fed that beast very long! When I inspected the three sections of the 8 qt metal tank which was cracked already, it would have leaked soon from pinhole rust leaks any way.
I put a new plastic 8 qt tank on my 72 when I put the K321 in. The little 5 qt tank left over from the 7 HP K161/181 would not have fed that beast very long! When I inspected the three sections of the 8 qt metal tank which was cracked already, it would have leaked soon from pinhole rust leaks any way.
Ryan, my tools shure arnt getting rusty with my cadets I think my o is knoking and my 122 throtel cabel broke but it is well worth it.
Frank-
You obviously need the muriatic acid treatment. It does a good job of getting rid of MOST of the rust. Follow the instructions well because this is one of those cases where more IS NOT better. The acid can do damage if left too long in the tank. The rust will turn a shade of black and when finished you might want to do the BB trick or sheet metal screws to loosen even more crap. A good time to do this is when rinsing. You can't rinse it too much; just be sure and rinse it well enough though. I bet the little screen on top of your shut-off valve is missing too. This is the only gas filtration offered unless you go with an inline filter (which I don't recomend). You'll need to pull the carb and clean it like never before too. Just be careful and you should be able to use everything that comes out when cleaning, including gaskets.
Aren't you going to want to kick yourself if this solves your problem?
Good luck.....Wayne
You obviously need the muriatic acid treatment. It does a good job of getting rid of MOST of the rust. Follow the instructions well because this is one of those cases where more IS NOT better. The acid can do damage if left too long in the tank. The rust will turn a shade of black and when finished you might want to do the BB trick or sheet metal screws to loosen even more crap. A good time to do this is when rinsing. You can't rinse it too much; just be sure and rinse it well enough though. I bet the little screen on top of your shut-off valve is missing too. This is the only gas filtration offered unless you go with an inline filter (which I don't recomend). You'll need to pull the carb and clean it like never before too. Just be careful and you should be able to use everything that comes out when cleaning, including gaskets.
Aren't you going to want to kick yourself if this solves your problem?
Good luck.....Wayne
thanks for all the tank cleaning tips, but i think i will just replace the tank.
if i can get that engine off ebay for a decent price, i will just buy that. it might sell for less then a new tank.
then i will have lots of spare parts.
i saw used tanks for 100.00.
yes, it would be great if this was the only problem, but i doubt that rust would only cause problems when hot.
if i can get that engine off ebay for a decent price, i will just buy that. it might sell for less then a new tank.
then i will have lots of spare parts.
i saw used tanks for 100.00.
yes, it would be great if this was the only problem, but i doubt that rust would only cause problems when hot.
Frank, the video of the contents of the gas tank has confirmed most of the posts that said you problem is fuel related. New tank,,,,,,,,, rebuild the carb with
lots of carb cleaner in the "tubes" and I'll bet you are good to go. My two cents
lots of carb cleaner in the "tubes" and I'll bet you are good to go. My two cents
Frank - I bet it dies when it gets hot because that's about the length of time it takes to suck the drugs into the fuel passage.
My 1882 would run for maybe 5 minutes then quit. It'd start back up within a minute or so (enough time for more gas to seep into line) then die again and repeat.
The petcocks (2 on tank) were totally rusted up and looked like they only had about a 1/16" passage through them. I had cleaned the carb probably 5 times and each time I had fine coffee grounds looking stuff just like you had when you dumped yours out.
Now it runs like a Kohler Twin ought to. Smokes on start up but it wasn't rebuilt completely right.
Kid<sub>e</sub> - Where's da pics man ????
<sub>Crap another thunderstorm !! Time to pull the plug and get out from under this BIG oak tree.</sub>
My 1882 would run for maybe 5 minutes then quit. It'd start back up within a minute or so (enough time for more gas to seep into line) then die again and repeat.
The petcocks (2 on tank) were totally rusted up and looked like they only had about a 1/16" passage through them. I had cleaned the carb probably 5 times and each time I had fine coffee grounds looking stuff just like you had when you dumped yours out.
Now it runs like a Kohler Twin ought to. Smokes on start up but it wasn't rebuilt completely right.
Kid<sub>e</sub> - Where's da pics man ????
<sub>Crap another thunderstorm !! Time to pull the plug and get out from under this BIG oak tree.</sub>
Eric - He probably had to replace the coupler pin on the shaft... oh you said it had homemade shaft ...
Well yes and no since they are spot welded on. Can be done if you drilled out the spot welds and done the same to a donor.
Well yes and no since they are spot welded on. Can be done if you drilled out the spot welds and done the same to a donor.
