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Archive through May 17, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kentucky Ken: it was so sad it was all most funny! "Honey we have 3 and I just bought another but I traded one off so we are back to three." Did you ever count how many dust bunnies are under a bed it is scary!

Oh next week I'll be posting all about and how good a 7000 series tractor is. Matter fact driving to South of Louisville to pick up my new 7264 next Tues. or Wed. but I promised Digger I would post it in the right place. So watch for that.
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Pops
 
Can anybody help? On my deck 48" model 482U111 the center blade was slipping. I could not get the nut loose to remove the blade so I decided to remove the splindle. After freeing up the nut with liquid wrench and some elbow grease I "tried" (key word here)to reinstall the assembly. I tapped the shaft slowly into the housing and out popped the bearing, seal, a split ring about a 1/4" in thickness and a solid ring about 1/2". I cleaned all the parts of, but as I didn't see them fall off I am not sure of the reassembly. I did see a couple of photos in the archives, but none with the detail that would help. Does anybody have a blow up and is there a good way to remove the other two blades? I can figure how to keep the pully from spinning with a wrench on the nut.
Thanks for any help.
jimmac
 
James,
I can't help much on your spindle assembly, but I always remove my blades with an impact wrench. I clean up the threads real good before I put them back on and I make a habit of removing them three times a season to sharpen the blades. That way they don't get so rusted in place that I can't remove them quickly. If they are extra hard to remove an air impact wrench will remove them a lot easier than an electric one, just be sure to clean up the exposed threads real good first and soak with some PB Blaster first.
 
James Mac,
Not knowing which 48" deck you have, my sugegstion would be to click the Parts Lookup button above. Enter in your tractor model number, then click on attchments for that tractor and take a peek at the options for decks it gives you.
That will show you parts blowups.
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Fellas,

Regarding the problem that James MacD had in getting his blades off got me to wondering - Is that what the purpose of the "friction disc" (#959-3486 or IH-473860-R1) that goes between the blade and the spindle,,,to keep them from rusting together?

Ryan W
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Ryan W.-

They're supposed to prevent the problem he's having, if the deck doesn't have those, the blades can turn on the spindle even if the nut is tight, making them very difficult to remove.
 
Still no luck getting my 100 to start any better.
I changed the coil as suggested, recleaned and reset the point gap to .20, still have to spin the motor over 10 or more times at full choke to get it to fire up.
This motor has a new (not rebuilt) carb purchased from cub dealer on it, all jets set to manual's suggested settings and tweaking them does not seem to make any difference.
I guess the next step is to go out and purchase a timeing light and try setting the points that way.
 
KRAIG - But I get a DISCOUNT...... Guess Who's 982 that is? I sent pic's to Jonathan L years ago......I think You got copies too.
 
I just got Kraig's CD's today from Plow Day.
Thanks Kraig, they are great!
On the other hand, some people have no shame!
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Help,if i use the shaft going throught my hydro behind the unit itself, it turns the same as the
drive shaft. It`s about 1.5 in long. If I use a lovejoy coupling on that shaft would it run the pump for my laoder.If the pump is conected to the front pto because of the 2 pullies are much bigger will i need to run the engine at lower rpm`s to run the loader.My problem is i don`t know what would be the best to do.
on a 129 cub
 
Shane thanks for the info on cleaning the threads before reinstalling.

Charlie thanks for the heads up for the parts look up. I took a look at the mower decks for my 125 and was sure I found my deck, however the section showing the spindle doesn't seem to agree with what parts I have (48" Blade- Part 2 (1968-1971.)To my non mechanical brain in the diagram I see only one bearing and there should be two if that represents 2 bearings one of seems out of place. I wonder if ordering a mower manual might help me or would I get the same diagram?

P.S. I did find the friction dics. So I think it was just a matter of rust on the treads.
 
hello again will the hydro pump conected to the drive shaft hinder the cub from starting because of the load of the pump?
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Charlie the only information I see is a metal tag rivited to the top of the deck. It stamped with an "Ident number" Is that what you are asking? If so the ident number is 482U1113.
 
James,
Although you posted 2 different ID numbers, and if this is the deck you have,
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I'm bettin that this is the parts blowup your looking for. If it isn't, someone smarter than I will chime in and help us both out, LOL
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I posted a while back that the, 44a deck, hump back hanger hangs too low. With the deck all of the way up its still too low to even mow. This is what the hanger looks like with the stock linkage.
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I scratched my head on this for a while. This is what I came up with. The new hangers are horizontal instead of vertical. They are held on with 1/2" bolts. Now the deck raises way up into the air. It is a bit more challenging to install the hanger but the trade off is worth it.
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How exactly did the CAT 0 three point hitch fit the wideframes, and how does it work?
 
Charlie the ID is 482U1113 I had left off the 3 on my original post as it was stamped a little differently (no paint)and when I looked at it with a flash light I noticed the shiny 3 on the end. Your photo looks like my deck, but my spindal is constructed differently. I wonder if a previous owner was able to install different spindals? Don't know if that's possible.
Thanks very much for really trying Charlie. I am toying with the idea of taking apart (very carefully)one of the 2 remaining spindals to see if they are the same and if so copy that assembly. I just hope I don't end up with 2 messed up spindals. LOL.
 

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