Archive through May 17, 2007

[dtanner]

I`ll look in here in the morning to see if someone can help me with the best place to run my loader pump. Thanks for aney help

 

[digger]

Terry B.
Great idea, let us know how it works out under load and usage.

Glen,
There's been a few guys make up Cat0's for WF's like Richard C., but nothing was ever a production item.

James M,
There's only 2 deck options for your deck ID number according to the Parts Lookup, so it's gotta be one of those, I THINK! LOL

Donald T.
Most all pumps I've seen run off the front PTO except for the one that Kraig posted pics of the other day.

 

[hcole]

Lonny,did you try giving the points a little less,or a little more? I know this is a dumb question but why did you change the carb. out? Was it hard to start before? Did you try putting the old carb back on?

 

[lbuttke]

Henri,
The reason for changing the carb is simple, the throttle shaft & shaft hole where worn out.
Being that I had no spare good carbs laying around I went ahead and ordered a new carb. Spendy little thing.
Yes it was hard to start befor with the old carb, but there was no way to keep a even speed with is sucking so much air.
I will try adjusting the points a little more.

Oh, when I turn the motor over by hand to the point there the point plunger is at its fullest traver the timing mark on the flywheel is now wheres close to being in the center of the site window, it is almost completely to the top of the site window.
I set the points to the .20 gap with the plunger at fullest travel.
Is this the correct way, or should I set them at .20 when the timing mark is centered.

But would that not open the points even more as the plunger is not at full travel, or dont that make a difference?

 

[dplogman]

Myron- This is David P with the no start 122. I'm writing back with some test results. You gave me some coil / points testing things to check. Meter on points side-nothing. meter on switch side-nothing. Hmmm. You mentioned likely the ignition switch. I would have never even considered the ignition switch cause it turns over fine. Is the switch really a possibility? Thanks for taking the time to help me out- we're all in this together.

Many of these shiny, beautiful machines I see posted really put my old work horse to shame. Some day I'll put her right. Dave

 

[bbrigham]

Charlie, I had a thought today how to drive the haban flail I'm setting up for my 102. Would be easy for me to drive it from a hyd. motor. Do you you know what RPM the output side of the right angle gear drives are supposed to be turning? Thats the only part I don't have figured out yet, alot of choices in motors.

Thanks
Bren

 

[cbusch]

Terry, those hangers look pretty clever. In the down position it would look like they still float like they are suppose to.

 

[jschahl]

I swear somewhere in here I've seen instructions for rebuilding a s/g, can someone please point me in the right direction?

All I can find in the FAQ pages are how to test. I need to know how to dis- and re-assemble. One of the posts on mine is bent over at 90 degrees and I can't get a nut on it to hook it up.
Jason S.

 

[dcurrin]

Lonny,
Is it possible that the flywheel is not installed properly? IE flywheel not in the correct relationship to the crankshaft. Therefore your "timing" may never be correct even though everthing looks ok. I am not sure how you would check this without removing the engine. Busted key or maybe not even a key there???
Somebody correct me if I am not thinking correctly here.
But new carb, new points, reasonable timing, was running previously.

I do not recall if you stated whether valve clearances were checked or adjusted???

Both of mine start great one 122 with 5 yr old factory new, the other a 129 who only knows, it keeps running, I have done nothing to it. Both start with full choke half throttle 1st turn then no choke half throttle on second turn and off we go. I do not stop in between just after they belch the first turn shove the choke in and off we go.
Cheers Dudley

 

[mbounds]

David P: Yes indeed an ignition switch can energize the starter while not allowing voltage to the run curcuit. Different internal circuits. For run, the switch only provides continuity to the coil (+) input. In start, the switch provides continuity to both the run wire to the coil <u>and</u> the start circuit wire to the solenoid. Corrosion can cause either or both to fail.

I think you found your culprit. If you weren't getting voltage to the switch itself, then obviiously, the start circuit wouldn't work either. If it was mine, I'd replace the switch.

You can make a quick check by putting a jumper wire from the battery (+) terminal to the (+) side of the coil. That will energize the run ignition circuitry. Turn the switch to start and crank the engine. It should start & run. To kill it, just remove the jumper from the battery (+)terminal.

Myron B