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Archive through May 16, 2009
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
installing new clutch on a 128.
the continuing saga of my 128.
i am stuck, once again.
removed engine and entire clutch. engine needed work, clutch had to be replaced.
putting it back togther went fine untill i put the clutch back in, then the engine, then tried to push the engine forward onto the clutch shaft. engine stops about 1" short. i have wiggled it every which way, made sure the clutch plate on the engine is not catching on the clutch plate on the shaft.
the shaft goes into the engine, but not far enough.
the service manual does not require moving the engine to replace the clutch.
should i disconnect the clutch shaft at the trans coupling, push clutch forward into engine, then push engine into place, which would also line the clutch shaft back up with the trans., then reconnect coupling, or, am i missing something else?
when you remove just the engine, not the clutch, do you need to uncouple the clutch when you reinstall the engine?
the continuing saga of my 128.
i am stuck, once again.
removed engine and entire clutch. engine needed work, clutch had to be replaced.
putting it back togther went fine untill i put the clutch back in, then the engine, then tried to push the engine forward onto the clutch shaft. engine stops about 1" short. i have wiggled it every which way, made sure the clutch plate on the engine is not catching on the clutch plate on the shaft.
the shaft goes into the engine, but not far enough.
the service manual does not require moving the engine to replace the clutch.
should i disconnect the clutch shaft at the trans coupling, push clutch forward into engine, then push engine into place, which would also line the clutch shaft back up with the trans., then reconnect coupling, or, am i missing something else?
when you remove just the engine, not the clutch, do you need to uncouple the clutch when you reinstall the engine?
To RPALMER,
I am a conveyor mechanic and we use a lot of those cam lock bearings. Th most common reason I see for them failing is that the person putting one on really beats the punch to get it good and tight. This can cause the inner bearing race to crack and fail. A few sharp taps is all it really takes to lock down those bearings, the shaft rotation and setscrew keep it locked after installation.
I am a conveyor mechanic and we use a lot of those cam lock bearings. Th most common reason I see for them failing is that the person putting one on really beats the punch to get it good and tight. This can cause the inner bearing race to crack and fail. A few sharp taps is all it really takes to lock down those bearings, the shaft rotation and setscrew keep it locked after installation.
Andrew P Johnson,
The picture doesn't show it but there is also a spot on the locking collar that looks like it had a chisel put to it. So I'm sure this was the case.
I went to cut my grass with this.... When the PTO engaged and disengaged I was a happy pup(I had been missing a mule drive spring). So I cut a couple paths to see what it looked like. Not bad. So on I went. Somewhere along the way I lost the button for the pto and the pto also would not disengage. I looked it over, cussing under my breath and could have sworn I saw everything from the basket forward move. But I could not move it by hand. Well today I found out why. Even the freaking basket was lose! The bearing its self is way tight and whatever locking grove that should be there isn't and after looking at the locking collar again I'm not too sure about that.
But it's off and I'm keeping it to compare with new someday. Thanks for the prudent advise. I'll remember your words often, I'm sure.
Have a great one.
The picture doesn't show it but there is also a spot on the locking collar that looks like it had a chisel put to it. So I'm sure this was the case.
I went to cut my grass with this.... When the PTO engaged and disengaged I was a happy pup(I had been missing a mule drive spring). So I cut a couple paths to see what it looked like. Not bad. So on I went. Somewhere along the way I lost the button for the pto and the pto also would not disengage. I looked it over, cussing under my breath and could have sworn I saw everything from the basket forward move. But I could not move it by hand. Well today I found out why. Even the freaking basket was lose! The bearing its self is way tight and whatever locking grove that should be there isn't and after looking at the locking collar again I'm not too sure about that.
But it's off and I'm keeping it to compare with new someday. Thanks for the prudent advise. I'll remember your words often, I'm sure.
Have a great one.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Matt S.
A company named Pennington, or Bennington, did make a front mount deck very simmilar to that one (See page 63 of Updikes 1st book for a nice photo), and I have seen front mount decks listed in Allied Equipment options IIRC, so while that set up could be a modification, it could also be factory Allied Equipment.
A company named Pennington, or Bennington, did make a front mount deck very simmilar to that one (See page 63 of Updikes 1st book for a nice photo), and I have seen front mount decks listed in Allied Equipment options IIRC, so while that set up could be a modification, it could also be factory Allied Equipment.
Could anyone look at this pic and tell me what this is off of. This is another one of those "look what followed me home things"...to bad I bought them off of ebay. Ended up can't use anything off of either one. The first one I think is off of a 100 to 12? series. The last one used to be for an original but who knows what the PO had it on. I bought the O deck for the spindles and pulleys, but so much for that.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Nick H.-
First one is from a 70/100 or 1x2/3, and the second one is an original deck with part of a 2000 series deck cobbled on.
First one is from a 70/100 or 1x2/3, and the second one is an original deck with part of a 2000 series deck cobbled on.
This is what you can do: As your Koler idles with the PTO linkage out of the way , take a
bearing scraper and carefully re shape the thrust button. As if it were a metal lathe. Without getting your fingers hurt or hurting the through out arms . The point was worn off of the button and I was able to re shape and smooth it to like new. Has any one else did this??
bearing scraper and carefully re shape the thrust button. As if it were a metal lathe. Without getting your fingers hurt or hurting the through out arms . The point was worn off of the button and I was able to re shape and smooth it to like new. Has any one else did this??
