Archive through May 16, 2008

[tkohlman]

not great news Charlie! Carter & Gruenewald where I bought my used 1250 back in 1982, (now really a 1650 with a motor change about 17 years ago) says $139 for the assembly! But Google says C&G also sells the spindle itself for $69

Better reason yet to try to insert new zerts (or is it zerks?)

Thanks again

 

[aschumacher]

Brad, go to www.kohlerengines.com and pull down a manual of it. May have bolt size info there.

 

[ccote]

Todd Markle -

That FAQ entry only gives about 50% of the info you need to do the super steer conversion. I'm working on the same thing right now. I'll post pics if/when I figure the other 50% out.

 

[bchalk]

doesn't look like a k161 is in their database. PO has put washers and lock washers on this head.

 

[wcompton]

Todd M-
The hubs are retained on the spindle similarly to how the OEM wheels and bearings are retained;
I installed a stud in place of the OEM bolt and preloaded the tapered roller bearings with a hardened washer and nylon insert lock nut.

By all means, if the FAQ doesn't answer your questions feel free to keep asking.

 

[rrschmitt]

B Clary,

What Mike T. said, plus check your electric clutch adjustment to make sure you have proper gap set on it. Your operators manual should have a section adjusting it with a feeler gage and a wrench.

 

[rrschmitt]

Mike H,

An 1100 has a Peerless transmission which is completely different than a regular IH gear drive transmission. I believe there is a horizontal shaft running from the engine to a 90-degree gear box that runs continuously and a belt between the gear box and transmission engages it with a tensioner pulley. If you want to go to a direct shaft drive like a 1000 or 1200, you will need a complete transmission plus a clutch set up which mounts up by the engine. That would be quite a bit of work to accomplish and could get expensive. I would just look for a 1000 or 1200 to use.

 

[tmarkle]

Wyatt,
That helps a lot. I was thinking about making a small stub threaded on the outside. It would be counterbored on the inside and held on by a socket heat cap screw. The screw would have to be recessed enough to allow for a cotter pin hole. Your way sounds like it would be easier, although I would probably still use a castle nut and cotter pin with it. I would probably put high strength thread locker on the stud too (or a jam nut if there is room).

My first step will be to slide the hub on the spindle and see how much I can remove from the hubs.

 

[ccote]

Wyatt,

Thanks for the additional info. As I said, I'm working on the same (well, maybe just similar) conversion. I've got a newer MTD axle that isn't exactly the Super Steer axle, but it fits and is a whole lot beefier than the original axle on a 149. Anyway, the FAQ talks about a 3/4" bolt, jam nut and washers. What is the deal there? I've got the axle bolt that held the axle on it the tractor it came with, but it will not fit without hitting either the oil pan or the mower mule drive. It looks like the axle pin from the 149 will hold everything in place, but I like the idea of a bolt to keep the frame from spreading (again). What do I need to do to make that work?

BTW, the Super Steer axle FAQ talks about the SS axle only being used on some S/N ranges. The axle that I have is the one from the other S/N ranges on those tractors. The casting is different, but what else?

Also BTW, the FAQ says an 1862 is a good donor, along with any other Cyclops tractors w/o power steering. According to the Cub parts lookup, the 1862 has power steering, but was available with either THE Super Steer axle, or the one that I've got.

Thanks!

 

[wcompton]

Christopher-
The bolt I used was just a standard 3/4" bolt. I'd have to dig out my pictures to remember what I did for sure, but I seem to think that I drilled the jam nut for a set screw so that it didn't come loose.

As far as S/N's and models, I'm not 100% sure, if you've found that the power steering equipped units work as well, that's good information to document.

When you get finished, I'd be interested in seeing some pictures.

 

[ccote]

Wyatt,

I haven't gotten it all together yet. I have spent quite a bit of time looking up MTD cub models and trying to figure out what tractor has what axle. It looks like the majority of them used one of two axles. One is the Super Steer axle, the other is the one that I have. They use different spindles, and the castings look different, but what the practical difference is, I don't know.

I have found that I can't use the axle bolt that came with the axle. If I have the head facing the oil pan, it just clears the pan, but I'd like a little more clearance for comfort. In that configuration, the castle nut on the other end hits the mower mule drive. If I flip it around, the bolt head just clears the mule drive, but the castle nut hits the oil pan. I guess I need a bolt with a thin head, and a thin jam nut, and to cut the bolt just long enough for the nut. There is no room for washers.

 

[tsmoker]

bchalk

go here http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/classic_engine.jsp?clseng=145160&clsfam=K-Series

 

[sblunier]

Christopher,

You have to reduce the bolt head thickness and either use a reduced thickness castle nut, weld a thinn castle nut to the frame, or us a thin nylock nut (like I think Wyatt did).

I've done it to 3 tractors, it can be done...carefully....

 

[mjrobilotta]

having problems with my 100. too busy to take a look at it myself so maybe someone has a good idea wut it is already. went to mow engaged the pto and while the blades did start spinning but they were going really slow and couldnt cut. nothing is caught.

 

[lbaker]

Anyone have an exploaded view of the area on a 149 in replacing gasket between tranny and rear end? (or where on here to locate?)

 

[kide]

Michael:
I'll betcha it's one of them thingys that help move them things under the mower deck, but I'm too busy to think, so I'll have to let you do it.....

 

[thoffman]

Mike "J", Did you check the belts?

 

[fcurrier]

Lyle: From the CC Parts Lookup button above go for 149 and Hydro Trans and related parts. The gasket is #23. This thing isn't letting me picture the parts today.

 

[rgjohnson]

Having trouble with the tiller on my 149, keeps throwing the belt. Anyone ever have trouble with this? Any remedy, or is it the way they are made?

 

[fcurrier]

Son of a Gun!