Archive through May 14, 2011

[dplogman]

122 Cub- On left side steering spindle where the "cap" attaches to the axel (there is a roll pin in there) Parts are old and there is play in the roll pin connection. Does anyone have any tricks for tightening up the top cap connection? she in a worker, not real worried about originality and I dont have any $ to spend. Seems like the connection should originally have been splined to avoid slipping. You know what I'm talking about? suggestions? Dave

 

[kmcconaughey]

David, you could drill the holes out to the next larger size of Spirol pin. Some people drill it out to the next size larger and use a bolt but the bolt will wallow out the hole faster than a Spirol pin will. One other suggestion is to cut a slot in the top cap perpendicular to the Spirol pin hole and use a bolt to pull the cap tight on the top of the spindle. Here's a LINK with some info.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE P. - Todd Markle, who writes for Red Power Mag. did a write-up about using TAPERED PINS to secure that steering arm on the left splindle. You have to buy a special tapered reamer to match the size of pin, but the pins are actually pretty cheap. LOT cheaper than a new spindle & steering arm. Tapered pins are pretty common on older machine tools.

On my #72 I've drilled the hole out twice and replaced with a larger bolt. Next time it gets WELDED! Part of the "Super Steer Modification" includes a newer MTD designed axle with bigger spindles, turns sharper, AND the left spindle IS splined! Think that mod is in the FAQ's. I helped Wyatt install his axle in my shop. Really quick & easy to do and made a WORLD of difference.

 

[aschumacher]

A while back Don Tanner did something using a tapered broach and a big tapered pin or special tapered bolt cant remember which to align the arm and shaft. With luck he can explain later.

 

[rklein]

Pretty much all the info you need to convert over to tapered pins is located here.

http://www.stanlok.com/taper_pins.html

Once you've installed tapered pins properly you should NEVER have problems again (short of shearing them off of course!).

 

[aaytay]

David-
I've done this method described by Kraig below:

"One other suggestion is to cut a slot in the top cap perpendicular to the Spirol pin hole and use a bolt to pull the cap tight on the top of the spindle."

I did this on a "worker" model 100, and it's been fine like that for a couple of years now. Not a factory fix, but it works great.

Let me know if you need any pics.

Speaking of pics...

Chris-
Give me a couple days and I'll try to look for some pics for you. (Or Kraig could post any HE has!) (Hint, hint.)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Chris, here's a detail photo of the exhaust and carb on Art's Plow Special.

 

[bmwitmer]

i am planning on restoring the cub cadet 86 i recently purchased. I bought it with it being repainted over by brush and it looks terrible. I would like to know how to get off all of the paint down to the bare metal, so i can primer and paint it once again.

 

[jbevans]

Thanks Brian-

Can you e-mail me when you find that number please. Thanks!

Jeremiah- I will post pics when I get a chance.

JB

 

[tdelikowski]

Thanks Dennis and David for info on 982 stopping problem. When I get the time to look into this and have result I will post here on how it turned out.

 

[tarthurs]

i have a problem and i hope you guys can help. im in the process of putting my 122 together after restoration and fired the engine for the first time today. the engine is completely rebuilt but theres compression in the crank case for some reason. any suggestion? thanks

 

[dross]

Tim, how much compressio are we talking about here?

 

[tarthurs]

not alot, but its enough to blow a little oil out if the dipsticks out.

 

[dross]

Hows it run? If the engine set a while between being rebuilt and getting started, a little oil set in the cylinder for a day might help. Keep an eye on it but probly no harm done. By the way that engine should hold about a quart of oil. Make sure you ain't checking the oil with the dipstick that says do not check here.

 

[tarthurs]

the engine runs great and yes it set for about a year. according to the info plate on the motor it should hold 1 1/2 qts of oil. i will give your suggestion a try tomarrow.

 

[lbuttke]

Brandon.

Best way to remove the old paint is to dis assemble the tractor and have the parts sand blasted.

 

[digger]

Lonny B.
I have to disagree with you!

The BEST way to remove paint is to have SOMEONE ELSE do it for ya!

 

[dfrisk]

TIM A. - A little blow-by, air coming out the dipstick tube on a running engine that was just rebuilt in not uncommon. Takes a while for the new piston rings to seat properly and seal the combustion chamber.

I'd put it to work mowing or whatever and change the oil after about five hours of running and then again after about 10-15 hours and you should be fine.

In the Kohler service manual for the K-series there's instructions on making a "U-tube manometer" from a scrap of board, some clear i/4" OD vinyl tubing 3-4 feet long and a rubber stopper with a hole thru it that seals the dipstick tube. Fill the tubing with water so the "U" is half full and mark the board in inches above and below the level of the water in the tube. Start the engine and warm it up and insert the stopper in the dipstick tube and you should show a VACUMN in the crankcase. Remember the piston going up & down several times a second is changing the volume of the crankcase and will blow air out the tube because it's the path of least resistance compared to the crankcase breather right under the carb.

Don't forget to re-torque the head bolts/studs.

 

[tarthurs]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm glad I don't have to tear it apart cuz my grass is getting kinda high.( good thing I have the creeper) I will post up some pics in a few days when its all done.

 

[jbaker]

hmmm

everyone must be