And depending on the serial number break, the 782 and QL's are pretty much exactly the same in the brake department.
The Parts Look up shows that.
The Parts Look up shows that.
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Archive through May 13, 2012
- Thread starter dtanner
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- Binder 1650
Engine rebuild question - I've got a spare K341 that appears to have come out of a Cub Cadet, likely a 1650 as no one would part out a 169...
So my question is - since this engine is a spare and I can't wreck what little progress I've made on my 1650, how difficult is it to do a rebuild on one of these K series single cylinder engines?
I'm a hack back yard mechanic. I can do a lot of things with these garden tractors, but haven't tried a rebuild yet.
What should I tackle myself and what should I farm out? Is it always necessary to rebore and grind the crank? When in the engine, do I tear out the governor while in there?
Just looking for a few starting points on what i'd be getting myself into.
So my question is - since this engine is a spare and I can't wreck what little progress I've made on my 1650, how difficult is it to do a rebuild on one of these K series single cylinder engines?
I'm a hack back yard mechanic. I can do a lot of things with these garden tractors, but haven't tried a rebuild yet.
What should I tackle myself and what should I farm out? Is it always necessary to rebore and grind the crank? When in the engine, do I tear out the governor while in there?
Just looking for a few starting points on what i'd be getting myself into.
BILL - If you've got a decent selection of hand tools, a K-series Kohler is easy to rebuild. The K-series engine manual & IH service manual are helpful, to the point of being required. You'll need an accurate inch-pound torque wrench, set of feeler gauges, a valve spring compressor and a piston ring compressor are handy to have too. And a harmonic balancer puller works good to pull the flywheel. You can buy or rent one from an auto parts store.
Most people rebore the cylinder and install an over-size piston, but sometimes you can get by with just a light honing and installing piston rings. There's instructions in the Kohler manual about how to measure the rod journal to see if it's out-of-round or tapered. The tolerance is pretty tight so most times the crank has to be reground. You'll need a micrometer to accuratedly measure the journal, something with resolution down to .0005 inches or finer. Most engine machine shops will measure this for you along with the cylinder bore. If your engine hasn't been rebuilt before the crank may not need to be ground, but I'd replace the conn rod anyhow.
Last engine parts I bought was about 6-7 yrs ago, things have gone up in price a lot since then, but if you use all OEM Kohler parts they should cost about $350-$400, piston comes with rings & wrist pin/keepers. New gasket & seal kit, new conn rod, new exh valve.
I've never replaced the governor gear in any Kohler, and only once had to replace the governor shaft because the machine shop broke the lever off of it.
Machine work, boring/honing the cylinder, grinding the valve seats, possibly grinding the rod throw, and planing the head for flatness should cost about $150 to $200. I'm allowing a little extra, things cost more out east.
With the rebuild, most people rebuild the carburator, install new spark plug, points & condenser, and points push rod. You should also read Dave Kirk's "KILLER KOHLER" write-up's, think they're still on the Puller & Hot-Rod forum home page.
It's pretty neat to fire up the engine the first time that only hours before was in pieces on your work bench.
Most people rebore the cylinder and install an over-size piston, but sometimes you can get by with just a light honing and installing piston rings. There's instructions in the Kohler manual about how to measure the rod journal to see if it's out-of-round or tapered. The tolerance is pretty tight so most times the crank has to be reground. You'll need a micrometer to accuratedly measure the journal, something with resolution down to .0005 inches or finer. Most engine machine shops will measure this for you along with the cylinder bore. If your engine hasn't been rebuilt before the crank may not need to be ground, but I'd replace the conn rod anyhow.
Last engine parts I bought was about 6-7 yrs ago, things have gone up in price a lot since then, but if you use all OEM Kohler parts they should cost about $350-$400, piston comes with rings & wrist pin/keepers. New gasket & seal kit, new conn rod, new exh valve.
I've never replaced the governor gear in any Kohler, and only once had to replace the governor shaft because the machine shop broke the lever off of it.
Machine work, boring/honing the cylinder, grinding the valve seats, possibly grinding the rod throw, and planing the head for flatness should cost about $150 to $200. I'm allowing a little extra, things cost more out east.
With the rebuild, most people rebuild the carburator, install new spark plug, points & condenser, and points push rod. You should also read Dave Kirk's "KILLER KOHLER" write-up's, think they're still on the Puller & Hot-Rod forum home page.
It's pretty neat to fire up the engine the first time that only hours before was in pieces on your work bench.
Bill J, your k-341 would have lots of power if you followed Dave Kirks articels. When I rebuild the engine in my 122 it will get a "killer" kohler.
hydroharry
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Bill J - as long as it's a "spare" engine why don't you just jump into it. But before you do that post some pics so we can see what you have. We can probably tell from pics if it's for a Quiet Line (it would have an integrated starter and front electric PTO). If it's for a 169 it will have a smaller flywheel shroud.
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jchamberlin
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James P. --The last time that question was asked the consensus was to throw the latch away, it seems that the wind can catch an open hood and really mess it up when the latch is used. I'm like you, I had the part, but couldn't figure out where to hook the spring, didn't know if I had the right spring, the latch seemed bent, but I didn't know what "straight" looked like, and I just couldn't seem to get it to work. So when the experts all said to remove it, I was happy to follow their advice.
James P.
Are you talking about this do-hickie?
Are you talking about this do-hickie?
Dennis F.
I would love to know where you are geting your work done.
"Machine work, boring/honing the cylinder, grinding the valve seats, possibly grinding the rod throw, and planing the head for flatness should cost about $150 to $200."
Local shops up here in north central Wi. want anywhere from $700 to $1200 for just boring/honing the cylinder.
Last motor I had redone I sent to school with young man going to C.V.T.C. for small engine mechanics, cost me $300 and a semester of time to get work done.
I would love to know where you are geting your work done.
"Machine work, boring/honing the cylinder, grinding the valve seats, possibly grinding the rod throw, and planing the head for flatness should cost about $150 to $200."
Local shops up here in north central Wi. want anywhere from $700 to $1200 for just boring/honing the cylinder.
Last motor I had redone I sent to school with young man going to C.V.T.C. for small engine mechanics, cost me $300 and a semester of time to get work done.
mfrade
Well-known member
Jeremiah C., which spring are you referring to?
He asked about the quick attach mechanism, Charlie answered.
But I'm curious which spring you were thinking of.
He asked about the quick attach mechanism, Charlie answered.
But I'm curious which spring you were thinking of.
Steve
no big deal...
does anyone know the length of the brake rod on a 782 I"m thinking mine may be a little short { that may be why the brake pedal seems normal till about 1/2 way down then gets real stiff...way more than normal...
no big deal...
does anyone know the length of the brake rod on a 782 I"m thinking mine may be a little short { that may be why the brake pedal seems normal till about 1/2 way down then gets real stiff...way more than normal...
cmwkrill
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- Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
AAAAAUUUGGHH!!!
Well... The current plan is to get the 109 running and painted.. Then all cub projects are goin' on hold.. stupid economy.. my boss told me today that he can't afford to keep me on after the end of this week.. I could tell he legitimately didn't want to let me go, and that he wasn't lying and trying to make me feel better.. he gave me the 109 as a graduation/going away gift.. He said, "You hauled it outta here with the intent to pay it back over time, you did all the manual labor after work to get it out, and you've been one hell of an employee. Keep it. If it comes back at all, I want it to be so we can see what you did to it. I DO NOT want to see it back out in the trade in lot." SOOOOO.... Back to square 1.5
Rob, The service manual for the 5,6,7,and 982 details adjusting the brake to work at the last 1" or so of pedal travel. the first part of the pedal travel moves the speed control handle to neutral.make sure everything is well lubed and freed up before adjusting. then I think you are good to set neutral by tapping the cam plate up or down. I can scan some pages later if the manual is not on here already.John
jchamberlin
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Mike F. --Lonny is correct, I was referring to the Hood Latch Spring. My glasses must have been dirty, all I read was "Latch" and "Spring" and my mind jumped to the issues I had with the Hood Latch Spring.
I didn't mean to confuse the issue (although this isn't the first time I've managed to do so).
Edit: Charles --Sorry to hear about your job loss. Keep on pluggin' away. You have a great attitude, enthusiasm, and talent for things mechanical. Plus, you're not afraid to ask questions. I'm sure there will be other opportunities for you. As they say, "One door closes, another opens."
I didn't mean to confuse the issue (although this isn't the first time I've managed to do so).
Edit: Charles --Sorry to hear about your job loss. Keep on pluggin' away. You have a great attitude, enthusiasm, and talent for things mechanical. Plus, you're not afraid to ask questions. I'm sure there will be other opportunities for you. As they say, "One door closes, another opens."
mfrade
Well-known member
Lonny, thanks for the clarification...
Jeremiah C., no worries, I had forgotten all about the hood latch! Hence the question.
Charles, sorry to hear this news. We're all pulling for you here and hopin' you find something quick.
Jeremiah C., no worries, I had forgotten all about the hood latch! Hence the question.
Charles, sorry to hear this news. We're all pulling for you here and hopin' you find something quick.
Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
To bad , If you lived closer I would give you a few weeks of work helping me get some cub work done.
I sent some pictures off to the guy that wants to trade his 125 for my Original (62) and well he thinks my tractor is rough. I wonder
just how many 1962 Originals he has seen that still run nice and everything works like it should. Paint is minor in my book when it comes to something this old I think.
What do you all think ??? I think if this was painted that would make all the difference. I don`t think (looks a little rough) best describes this tractor. I think this is like Charlies signature line.When people tell me there tractor looks a little rough I think IT has issues with parts missing and does not run and work like it should
To bad , If you lived closer I would give you a few weeks of work helping me get some cub work done.
I sent some pictures off to the guy that wants to trade his 125 for my Original (62) and well he thinks my tractor is rough. I wonder
What do you all think ??? I think if this was painted that would make all the difference. I don`t think (looks a little rough) best describes this tractor. I think this is like Charlies signature line.When people tell me there tractor looks a little rough I think IT has issues with parts missing and does not run and work like it should
