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Archive through May 13, 2012
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jbaker
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2008
- Messages
- 4,144
- displayname
- jeff l baker
Sorry Don,,I do remember you mentioning that the same time as Dan did. But he did a nice job of describing it and thats why I gave him the credit he deseverd.
Anthony there was no transition from belt drive because there was no belt drive untill some time in the 80's. Now if you meen by starting I believe it was only the Originals that had a pull start.
Anthony there was no transition from belt drive because there was no belt drive untill some time in the 80's. Now if you meen by starting I believe it was only the Originals that had a pull start.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Jeff, didn't the O's have a belt from the engine to the drive shaft, soon after to be direct drive ??
Anthony S,
The Original Cub Cadet was the only model to have a belt drive between the engine and clutch. When IH introduced the next series of Cubbies (70/100) models, the drive shaft was direct drive between the engine, clutch and transmission. I believe the Pull Start engine option was only available on the Original, 70, 71 and 72 models.
The Original Cub Cadet was the only model to have a belt drive between the engine and clutch. When IH introduced the next series of Cubbies (70/100) models, the drive shaft was direct drive between the engine, clutch and transmission. I believe the Pull Start engine option was only available on the Original, 70, 71 and 72 models.
WAYNE S. - re Your cylinder head... That almost looks like a weld repair that didn't get good penetration where your seeing the crack. I assume it's on the exh valve side. I'd run it, and keep an eye open in the classifieds here for another head.
Well, I "BALED" today. Grass got a little long on me by the time I mowed earlier this week. Hooked the home-made lawn vac up to the 72, checked the oil, gas tank was dry so I added a couple quarts, the engine is the K181 that was in my 72 when I bought it, hooked the ignition wire up to the battery on the 72, wound the pull rope onto the pulley, one BIG yank and the thing started and ran all day, except when it ran out of gas after the first load.
Got ten loads of "HAY", Wish I had a scale I could actually weigh a load of clippings or leaves on. These dry grass clippings settle & pack O-K, but leaves are heavier I think. A load is 32 inchs wide X 42 inchs long and about 36 inchs tall. I'd guess-timate the loads of dry clippings today weighed between 500 & 600 pounds.
Reminds for ALL the World of chopping haylage for the neighbor, mostly because of the dust.
Wish I could find something to do with a couple tons or so of grass clippings.
Well, I "BALED" today. Grass got a little long on me by the time I mowed earlier this week. Hooked the home-made lawn vac up to the 72, checked the oil, gas tank was dry so I added a couple quarts, the engine is the K181 that was in my 72 when I bought it, hooked the ignition wire up to the battery on the 72, wound the pull rope onto the pulley, one BIG yank and the thing started and ran all day, except when it ran out of gas after the first load.
Got ten loads of "HAY", Wish I had a scale I could actually weigh a load of clippings or leaves on. These dry grass clippings settle & pack O-K, but leaves are heavier I think. A load is 32 inchs wide X 42 inchs long and about 36 inchs tall. I'd guess-timate the loads of dry clippings today weighed between 500 & 600 pounds.
Reminds for ALL the World of chopping haylage for the neighbor, mostly because of the dust.
Wish I could find something to do with a couple tons or so of grass clippings.
pfitzwater
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
- Messages
- 74
- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
thanks guys for the punch tip. I was able to find a set at Sears and that worked so much better. Is there any pictures of the clutch disk "clips" for lack of a better word. How they clip on? I am guessing I have them on backwards and upside down
cmwkrill
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
- Messages
- 213
- displayname
- Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
O.K., guys.. my only question for the day- Is it really possible to change the automatic compression release spring in my K241 (out of the 109) without removing the crank and cam? The manual says it's possible, but doesn't elaborate, so, any and all advice would help.
Charles Matthew Wayne Krill
It easy if you remove the base pan,turn the cam so you can do one spring at a time. you might try using a magnet to hold the parts in place so you can use needle nose pliers to get the spring in place. sound like a small job after the engine is out.
It easy if you remove the base pan,turn the cam so you can do one spring at a time. you might try using a magnet to hold the parts in place so you can use needle nose pliers to get the spring in place. sound like a small job after the engine is out.
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
I also have a tractor here that does not move backwards very fast. I have adjust it that I get no strain on the hydro pump when the break is applied . I have new hydro valves installed and have switched them around and that made no difference in the reverse speed. What am I missing here to get more reverse speed ? I have given some thought to tap up on the plate and adjust neutral with the plate higher up . would that give me more reverse speed and a better balance of movement from forward and reverse.I read some instructions on this somewhere on here but now can`t seem to find the info again. Thanks Don T
I also have a tractor here that does not move backwards very fast. I have adjust it that I get no strain on the hydro pump when the break is applied . I have new hydro valves installed and have switched them around and that made no difference in the reverse speed. What am I missing here to get more reverse speed ? I have given some thought to tap up on the plate and adjust neutral with the plate higher up . would that give me more reverse speed and a better balance of movement from forward and reverse.I read some instructions on this somewhere on here but now can`t seem to find the info again. Thanks Don T
On my 1250. When I got the tractor it did not have full speed, but I did not know, as it was my first IH Cub Cadet. I adjusted the hydro bracket to find neutral. Afterwards, I had just enough forward speed to use the tractor to mow and push snow and very slow reverse.
I found that the rod that pulls the hydro into neutral was too short to reach into the ends of the Y slot. This bound up the linkages and did not allow the full motion of the swash plate. I adjusted this rod, and now the tractor is able to travel very fast in forward and reverse.
I found that the rod that pulls the hydro into neutral was too short to reach into the ends of the Y slot. This bound up the linkages and did not allow the full motion of the swash plate. I adjusted this rod, and now the tractor is able to travel very fast in forward and reverse.
Just got a call and it looks like I traded my 62 original for a 125 with head lights, mower deck and 1a tiller . I will be giving him a mower deck for the O and that`s it. crazy guy has to drive 6.5 hrs one way to do the trade. That don`t come close to me on a 125 I got from Washington (12 minutes away from the White house lol) Yellow fever , he got lol.
Ken Freeman
I guess I have to get at the adjustments again and find the sweet spot for more reverse speed.I think the way to do this is to get neutral with out the brake rod attached and adjust the hydro control first and Then adjust the brake rod. Is that how you got yours set up?? later Don T
Ken Freeman
I guess I have to get at the adjustments again and find the sweet spot for more reverse speed.I think the way to do this is to get neutral with out the brake rod attached and adjust the hydro control first and Then adjust the brake rod. Is that how you got yours set up?? later Don T
Donald,
Everything, including brake rod, was hooked up when I adjusted to find neutral. I seems like I had to move the bracket up as high as it would go before the tractor would go into neutral from both directions when the brake is applied.
A year or two later, I dug back into it and found the brake rod was too short.
Everything, including brake rod, was hooked up when I adjusted to find neutral. I seems like I had to move the bracket up as high as it would go before the tractor would go into neutral from both directions when the brake is applied.
A year or two later, I dug back into it and found the brake rod was too short.
Rob,
There may not be a FAQ for the 82 series. There is less information on this site concerning the 82's than there is for the earlier tractors.
There are Manuals. An Operator's Manual, Chassis Manual, and a CCC Service Manual in the "Manuals" pages of this site. There is probably some help there. Good Luck!
Under Edit: But then, you probably already knew that. You have been on this site for 10 years!
There may not be a FAQ for the 82 series. There is less information on this site concerning the 82's than there is for the earlier tractors.
There are Manuals. An Operator's Manual, Chassis Manual, and a CCC Service Manual in the "Manuals" pages of this site. There is probably some help there. Good Luck!
Under Edit: But then, you probably already knew that. You have been on this site for 10 years!
