Archive through May 12, 2010

[thenrie]

Wayne: Thanks for the How-To on the steering column. I had already read up on the topic and I've done steering boxes on other vehicles as well, but the problem I had was that the bearing cup I received in my order doesn't look like what the parts diagram shows and doesn't seat well in the plug, so I wasn't sure. I did what you said and pulled the old plug out of the trash and found it is the same as the new one, so thanks for that, but the old bearing cup is completely gone, so I had nothing for reference. I got the top bearing cup out last night and it doesn't look anything like the new cup I got (part number is correct).

So thanks to all who responded. You answered my question about running the ball bearings on the aluminum plug. Apparently the newer bearing cups are different than the OEM ones and don't seat as well as I would have expected. The new one doesn't look much like the old one that came out of the top bearing seat.

 

[dtanner]

Tony Henrie
could you post a picture of the bearing cups? I want to see what you mean(they are not the same)Thanks Don T

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE S. - saw your comment on the last page. I'm not a real big fan of breaking that gear to remove. I almost think just letting it "hang" in the crankcase would be a better solution since it wouldn't turn without the first gear in place.... If I remember their locations correctly.

RYAN has a good idea of attaching a small magnet to your oil pan or drain plug. A small speaker magnet anywhere on the bottom of the pan would work great if you have a cast iron pan. With the alum. pan it would have to be on the drain plug.

I don't think I'd stay awake at night worrying about a crack in that side of the block. Your correct, JB Weld or similar is the proper tool for tha repair. I'd run the engine as is, if there's a crack it will be a small one and might not even leak, that area is splashed with oil, not immersed. Might want to check with a dye penetrant like Dye-Check or ?? if there's any oil weeping.

My HELM factory FMC pickup service manuals actually show WHERE on all different engines you can repair pourous or cracked block castings. Cracks are not good, but not always cause for scrapping parts.

Also, the small washers DON T. mentioned are shim washers, to tighten the gears/bearings on the stub shafts so they don't hammer the retaining ring off. Save them since they also are camshaft shimming washers.

MATT G. - GREAT write-up. Needs to be in the FAQ's. Ranks right up there with Steve B, Richard C. & Dave K's.

 

[jott]

The 124 was my 2nd tractor and I think its my favorite Geardrive...

I have 23x10.50-12s ags on these same rear rims and 16x6.50-8 ags on the front. Its a beast with my 42" snowblower

 

[wshytle]

Ryan-

I used a flashlight, lots of compressed air, and a magnet to make sure I got everything out. I found it a good idea to put the broken gear together again on the bench to double check that all is there. I plan to filter the oil that came out (it was new oil) then use it for a few minutes then drain and go back with fresh.

Dennis-

I'm not sure I totally understand what you were saying about leaving the gear just hanging. It had to come out because it was wiggling on the stud. The gears are turned separately by the gear on the crank so it would continue turning and eventually fail I'm sure. The balance would probably be effected as well. If you look at the picture I posted yesterday you can see where the spacers were (on each stud) vs the gear bearings and see that the bearings had "roughed up" the stud. As I mentioned, both gears had a few needle bearings missing.

 

[mgonitzke]

Wayne-

I'd put a magnet on the drain plug...when I removed the balance gears from a 1650, I put a really strong magnet on the plug. I think I changed the oil twice in the first two hours of run time. There was a lot of crap on the magnet the first time, and not very much the second time.

 

[kide]

Matt:
Great writeup on carburetor rebuild, I hope it gets turned into a FAQ!!!

 

[kweaver]

Donald - You dug a hole for that yet ?

Magnets - Not the right size but if anybody ever has a shot hard drive , bust it open and get the magnets out. Super strong for their size.

 

[proessler]

Matt: Great pictorial! Any PD down your way this year? Larin try <font color="ff6000">Ariens.com</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Matt, I agree with the others great write up!

KENtucky, a .30-06 doesn't do much to a hard drive, only puts a little hole through them. A .45LC revolver cartride shot from a rifle does a lot more damage. A .450 Marlin does a nice job on them as well.

Any one need a magnet.

Well they might be a bit fragmented.

 

[rwilke]

If you've got a magnet that is too big - and you don't want to toss ammunition at it - then just hit it with a hammer and make many smaller magnets!

If you're magnet is on the weak side & you're concerned about it being brushed off, you can always JB Weld it to the bottom of the oil plug;
Just make sure you can still get a wrench on the plug so you can install/remove it for future oil changes....
Ryan Wilke

 

[dtanner]

Ken lol

Donald - You dug a hole for that yet ?

It did take me a minute to what you meant lol.

I`am having a hard few days here with pain, No seat time for me at all. I went for a little drive and had to turn back.I hope this don`t last long this time.have a great day .. Don T

 

[dtanner]

Just a thought ! I used to make my screw drivers into magnets to hold the screw fast. so a drain plug should work . Just coil some bare wire around the plug and connect to a battery and that will I think.My .02

 

[dfrisk]

WAYNE - Keep in mind it's been something like 7 yrs since I saw balance gears assembled in my K321 when I tore it apart. I thought the crankshaft drove the first gear and the first gear drove the second. Since they both drive off the crankshaft they would both have to be removed. I have a K241 in pieces in the shop now but it doesn't have balance gears.

KRAIG - How big a hole would a MAGNUM 500 make in a hard drive? They're a 50 cal. 5-shooter. Not enough room in the cylinder for six shells!

 

[dtanner]

I could get into trouble for this but don`t know where to ask this question. What Cub Cadet tractors have power steering? I have a plan for my 129 loader. Thanks Don T

 

[wshytle]

Well, I got her back together and all is fine EXCEPT it does have a knock. It sounds like a rod knock. It lessens when I give her throttle but it's there. I think the ole nephew is going to have a knocking tractor, at least for a while. It still doesn't smoke so the top of the engine should be fine. Now I wonder if that washer that was MIA had something to do with the knock.

My 149 has been put on the back burner for long enough now. I also need a break from QLs.

I could use some opinions here. I don't know how often Kohlers throw rods but has anyone had that experience? It's set so WOT is about 3000 rpm.

 

[cledford]

1450: Removing electric PTO to replace crank seal…

OK, went to pull the PTO off the engine from my 1450 as I received my gasket kit (including crank shaft seals) from Cub Cadet Classics. (Also, I should mention OUTSTANDING service – ordered parts Monday, got them today…) So, I removed the 4 bolts holding the PTO shroud on. Then tried to take the center bolt out and the crank turns. How does one go about getting the center bolt loose and out? I DID refer to my handy-dandy manual – but there is no mention of anything I can see – it just states “remove bolt.” I did notice that the picture then shows a puller being used to remove the PTO – but I’d gotten the impression from previous posts that it should pull off by hand?

Thanks in advance for any input.

-Calvin

 

[dtanner]

Wayne Shytle
I have to ask what torque you used on the rod when you put the engine back together. Or did you not have the rod cap off.I always use a little more that the factory setting when I take them apart ,because the bolts getting stretched some when torqued. Don T

 

[digger]

Don T.
Looks to me like you got more than enough answers when you asked the same question yesterday on the registry about adding power steering!
In the custom section and not on the main page I might add.

 

[dross]

Don't, I don't think I'd go to far over stock for torque on a rod. Steel threads in an alluminum rod "will" pull the threads right out of the rod. Don't ask how I know that.