Archive through May 11, 2014

[jmlloar]

having trouble with belt jumping. new belt still jumping. seems like deck pulley is leaning lower in the front than rear. front clevises on deck all the way up. worked great, then jumped once and since then lasts about 20 feet before jumping again.

 

[dschwandt]

John, Are you sure you have the correct belt for your application? Like are you running a belt for a 5" pulley on a deck with a 4.5" pulley or something which would be too long?

 

[rmcshane]

John, just an idea for you...did you check to see if your center bearing has side to side play? This may also cause belt jumping.

 

[nbextermueller]

John. We need pictures. Post up some pictures of your setup.

 

[jmlloar]

Belt fits fine. Just started doing this suddenly. I replaced belt because old one was getting worn. But it still acts the same. It worked great up until first time it jumped and from then on it wont stay on more than 20 feet. There is very little play in the center deck pulley. It just "looks" to me like the front of the deck tilts down to much. I would figure with all the extra linkage these use it would lift up and down level. It seems to be jumping from deck pulley first

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - Is your new belt a CC belt? I've tried other brand belts (Gates) and I couldn't even get the mower deck up to mowing speed before the belt would jump off. The off-brand belt was too stiff to make all the bends and twists the mule drive belt has to make.

I don't like spending $30 for a belt when the off-brand cost me $3 and change (I got a DEEP discount at Motion Industries back then) but the belt has to work.

 

[jbennett]

I was wondering if someone could talk me through how to adjust the fuel mixture on an original cub? It smells funny recently like it's running to rich.

 

[digger]

John B.
Tighten the adjusting screws down and then back them out to the specs below.

 

[lpalma]

What mower deck is the jumping belt on?

 

[jmlloar]

Not sure on specs on deck other than ser#382U1113

 

[kwarwick]

Thanks Donald,I will check on that filter issue and replace it.Have a great day.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John, from that number it appears that you have a 38" deck if you are using it on a 107 it is most likely the stamped version with just the front center piece being cast. Does it have half moon shaped runners on the ends or round? First check the center pulley as has been mentioned to make sure that there is no slop in the bearing or that it is not lose. Also check the mule drive pulleys to be sure that they do not have bad bearings or that they are not worn and running more crooked than they should be. There should be some angle to the running position of the mule drive pulleys to align them with the mower deck center spindle pulley. Now on to the nose down condition, there are multiple places on the deck and scissor lift mechanism that wears down and causes the nose down position which can lead to the belt derailing. All these wear points can add up and cause problems. If you are handy with a welder and angle grinder they can be built back up closer to new and your mower deck will be more adjustable and happier. Red arrows point to the most common wear points to check for wear.

 

[drglinski]

Wanted to get out and mow, but mother nature is raining all over my parade. No cub seat time today!

 

[sblunier]

John

Check out FAQ 15 for more deck leveling suggestions. Kraig may be able to help out with the "point C" photo for bending the pickle fork.

 

[dcmay]

Can I replace the clutch disc on a 1200 without sliding the engine forward?Does'nt look like it to me.
Dan

 

[mhorozko]

John, I can add to what Kraig has said also.I have seen where the center main drive pully mounts on some decks to have cracked the sheet metal deck. Maybe the PO ran the belt way too tight. Do the three pullys on the deck seem to be running parallel/ in the same plan?

 

[dschwandt]

Dan C, Yes you can but it is a PITA either way.
You will have to drive out the spirol pins on both rear couplers and slide both of them forward on the driveshaft to allow it to be raised and moved rearward. Be sure and support the couplers while driving the pins out. I use a short piece of hardwood 2x2 cut the right length to fit from the underside of the driveshaft to the floor or top of your lift table if you are lucky enough to have one.

You then will have to remove the pin from the clutch release arm. One of the three drive pins is longer and it is the one the anti rattle spring goes on.

Would be a good idea to resurface the clutch plates also at this time if you are installing a new disc.

This is all better outlined in the factory service manual. Click on the manuals ection sna download it and you will be able to print off whichever section you need.

Good Luck!

 

[dlbarnett]

I'm getting 149 ready for mowing duties today, I've got a 44in open end deck on this one, is there anyway to get the deck to lift higher? It will barely lift high enough to get the wheels off the ground.

 

[rrschmitt]

Doug B,

I'd recommend removing the tunnel cover and replacing the two sproil roll pins c/t the mower deck lift arms and rockshaft. Over time those pins deform and crack in fatigue and prevent acheiving full lift capability. The spriol roll pins are not standard roll pins so you would need to check with your local Cub Cadet dealer or Case IH dealer to find the proper replacement.

 

[jpatchett]

Doug B.,

It will be hard to advise you on the issue without pictures. I will assume you have a hydraulic lift. Pull off the tunnel cover and check the rock shaft to actuator linkage. If you can post photos take some shots of the mower lift bracket to mower connection from each side and the RS to actuator linkage. There is the old saying a picture is worth………………..

Jim