mgonitzke
Well-known member
You can also do it with a bench vise if you're careful. That is one of the procedures in the service manual, and it is what I used to do before I came up with this:
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Archive through May 11, 2010
- Thread starter mgonitzke
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J
jott
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TONY - Don's post on the last page is correct. There are thrust races, kinda deformed conical flat washers for the ball bearings to run on, that aluminum adjusting plug will be destroyed in a few hours of operation without it. Those little ROSS gearboxes are actually pretty simple, not many parts in them. But they need to be assembled correctly. Also don;t tighten that adjusting plug too tight, it forces the top of the steering worm shaft out the top of the gearbox casting. BT-DT!
I'm pretty sure new steering gearboxs are still available, but they're over $300, almost $400 now.
I'm pretty sure new steering gearboxs are still available, but they're over $300, almost $400 now.
Tony - I don't know why Donald (well with him yes I do) and Dennis can't get the meaning of your question.
No it's NOT ok for the bearing to run on the aluminum. What you think is a race machined into the aluminum cap is probably machined for the steel race to sit into to support it , hence the contour rather than flat cut.
Without seeing pictures of what you have I'm only speculating ...
No it's NOT ok for the bearing to run on the aluminum. What you think is a race machined into the aluminum cap is probably machined for the steel race to sit into to support it , hence the contour rather than flat cut.
Without seeing pictures of what you have I'm only speculating ...
Josh, I don't know if it's an approved method but
if you put the end of the drive shaft in a decent size vise, Put the pin, at the end of the spring, vertically inbetween the jaws and a block under the shaft to keep it up, now tighten up the vise. Use a brass hammer or drift to drive the shaft (spring) toward the jaws. You only need a gap between the spring and pin. Now drive out the pin. Put a rag on the spring, grab the shaft up around the plates and let the pressure off the vise slowly. You can put it back on the same way. you'll get a feel for how tight the vise needs to be, it doesn't have to be godawfull tight just enough to hold it. Don't get in front of it while it's under pressure. Be aware what your doing is dangerous and can hurt you. I seen nice spring compressors and I've thought about building one but in 30 years of messing with these things I've only had to do 6 or 8 main drive clutches and a vise works.
if you put the end of the drive shaft in a decent size vise, Put the pin, at the end of the spring, vertically inbetween the jaws and a block under the shaft to keep it up, now tighten up the vise. Use a brass hammer or drift to drive the shaft (spring) toward the jaws. You only need a gap between the spring and pin. Now drive out the pin. Put a rag on the spring, grab the shaft up around the plates and let the pressure off the vise slowly. You can put it back on the same way. you'll get a feel for how tight the vise needs to be, it doesn't have to be godawfull tight just enough to hold it. Don't get in front of it while it's under pressure. Be aware what your doing is dangerous and can hurt you. I seen nice spring compressors and I've thought about building one but in 30 years of messing with these things I've only had to do 6 or 8 main drive clutches and a vise works.
Ken
(Tony - I don't know why Donald (well with him yes I do) and Dennis can't get the meaning of your question. )
I said there are 2 races and thought Tony would understand one goes on top and yes one race sits in the cup. btdt on all my tractors.today i`am down to using one finger to type,so I will be brief.
(Tony - I don't know why Donald (well with him yes I do) and Dennis can't get the meaning of your question. )
I said there are 2 races and thought Tony would understand one goes on top and yes one race sits in the cup. btdt on all my tractors.today i`am down to using one finger to type,so I will be brief.
KEN - What's up? Small Craft warnings on your favorite fishing hole?
DON & I both understood Tony's question.
Frank's exploded view from the parts look-up should help Tony get the steel race and reassemble his gearbox correctly.
Your answer was just more.....Direct.... and Grumpy! (hehehe) Just kidding with you of course!
And I'm not even going to comment on the clutch spring discussions. Last driveshaft & clutch I installed was a complete assembled unit ready to install, no assembly required with the red spring. I wasn't about to cut THAT thing loose!
DON & I both understood Tony's question.
Frank's exploded view from the parts look-up should help Tony get the steel race and reassemble his gearbox correctly.
Your answer was just more.....Direct.... and Grumpy! (hehehe) Just kidding with you of course!
And I'm not even going to comment on the clutch spring discussions. Last driveshaft & clutch I installed was a complete assembled unit ready to install, no assembly required with the red spring. I wasn't about to cut THAT thing loose!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
It's a very nicely machined aluminum part, which has a <u>bearing race machined</u> into it for the lower steering gear bearing. However, I'm a bit skeptical that an aluminum bearing race will last long<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
I give up ...
Yea it's windy ... oh you mean <u>outside</u> ... ok
I still have the pinched nerve I got yesterday so I can't fish anyway. Only one day in the last 40 days !
It's a very nicely machined aluminum part, which has a <u>bearing race machined</u> into it for the lower steering gear bearing. However, I'm a bit skeptical that an aluminum bearing race will last long<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
I give up ...
Yea it's windy ... oh you mean <u>outside</u> ... ok
I still have the pinched nerve I got yesterday so I can't fish anyway. Only one day in the last 40 days !
my 128 with the second stalling problem.
as i said earlier, i did not think you guys understood my question, either i did not make it clear, or i am too stupid to understand your answers.
i bought a new spring today, it is the same size as the old one. i have not tried it with the new spring on yet.
today , i only have time to post one video.
this video shows the the governor linkage with the engine off, i move the the throttle lever from idle to full, back to idle.
the question is, whenever you see this, does this mean the spring setting is so far off do not even bother trying to adjust anything else, just move the spring?
or, do i have something else wrong that i need to change?
I am assuming this is wrong because , without tension on the spring, I have no throttle control. the throttle does not push the governor arm so it it can push the throttle on the carb.
and this is what i meant by, " i have no throttle control".
again, i am not complaining, I just did not believe you guys could understand my question, without seeing it.
hopefully this weekend, i will put the spring back to factory setting and post a video of the stalling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2Um3V18DMo
as i said earlier, i did not think you guys understood my question, either i did not make it clear, or i am too stupid to understand your answers.
i bought a new spring today, it is the same size as the old one. i have not tried it with the new spring on yet.
today , i only have time to post one video.
this video shows the the governor linkage with the engine off, i move the the throttle lever from idle to full, back to idle.
the question is, whenever you see this, does this mean the spring setting is so far off do not even bother trying to adjust anything else, just move the spring?
or, do i have something else wrong that i need to change?
I am assuming this is wrong because , without tension on the spring, I have no throttle control. the throttle does not push the governor arm so it it can push the throttle on the carb.
and this is what i meant by, " i have no throttle control".
again, i am not complaining, I just did not believe you guys could understand my question, without seeing it.
hopefully this weekend, i will put the spring back to factory setting and post a video of the stalling.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2Um3V18DMo
To set the bead on a tubless tire squirt just a little bit on starting fuel inside the tire and light it the small explosion will set the bead. also use your mind and stand back a little I do this all the time on the small tractor tires. never had a problem,Ron
Tony-
If you look at the alum. plug you say you destroyed I bet you'll find a race buried in old grease. It almost has to be there and they can stick in the plug they fit so well. There are two races and two sets of ball bearings. They should be installed exactly in reverse of how they came out. While you have it apart there are several things you can do help with steering. I'd get ALL of the old grease out and wash it out with gas or a solvent. The follower stud (#4) probably has a worn spot and should be trued up and polished as best you can. I put mine in a drill press and use a grinder because it's hardened steel. I then use sand paper to smooth it then put it on a wire brush in a bench grinder to sort of polish it. Be careful to maintain the profile of the follower head so it fits the worm gear travel. The side plate (#3) that has the bolt welded in is probably not flat and needs to be. I've read they were probably warped some when made due to the heat from the weld. If you try and straighten it be sure to put one of the two jam nuts on it to protect the threads. A shop press works well for this but I have used a BFH with success. Just keep checking for flat with a straight edge and try not to overdo it. There are slots internally for the grease to follow and they need to be cleaned out too. I even shoot grease through the zerk when it's apart to get the old out completely. The manual covers most of this so reading that before you begin reassembly may be helpful. There is even a steering upgrade that does away with the two jam nuts and replaces them with a bearing, washer, and lock nut.
Hope this helps....Wayne
If you look at the alum. plug you say you destroyed I bet you'll find a race buried in old grease. It almost has to be there and they can stick in the plug they fit so well. There are two races and two sets of ball bearings. They should be installed exactly in reverse of how they came out. While you have it apart there are several things you can do help with steering. I'd get ALL of the old grease out and wash it out with gas or a solvent. The follower stud (#4) probably has a worn spot and should be trued up and polished as best you can. I put mine in a drill press and use a grinder because it's hardened steel. I then use sand paper to smooth it then put it on a wire brush in a bench grinder to sort of polish it. Be careful to maintain the profile of the follower head so it fits the worm gear travel. The side plate (#3) that has the bolt welded in is probably not flat and needs to be. I've read they were probably warped some when made due to the heat from the weld. If you try and straighten it be sure to put one of the two jam nuts on it to protect the threads. A shop press works well for this but I have used a BFH with success. Just keep checking for flat with a straight edge and try not to overdo it. There are slots internally for the grease to follow and they need to be cleaned out too. I even shoot grease through the zerk when it's apart to get the old out completely. The manual covers most of this so reading that before you begin reassembly may be helpful. There is even a steering upgrade that does away with the two jam nuts and replaces them with a bearing, washer, and lock nut.
Hope this helps....Wayne
Frank, I watched your video and thats about how they work with the engine off. The govenor has wieghts that are acted on by centrifical force and push against a tang on the gov. shaft inside the engine, when the engines running. When it's not running there is no action against the spring.
Frank S.
There's a reason that the paint is worn around the 3rd hole up from the bottom.
There's a reason that the paint is worn around the 3rd hole up from the bottom.
jbaker
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- jeff l baker
I completed a first for me today by swapping pto clutchs from 2 K301s. I am glad I checked the archives before hand, because I found three set screws in one hole. Tom H. mentioned that he found three one time. Otherwise i may have wrestled with it for a while.
Note to new people use the search bar here
Note to new people use the search bar here
A few days ago I posted about a knock in a K301aqs and today I pulled the engine and found the balance gears very loose (the one you see first). I have this forum to thank for saving this very tight engine. It's a replacement in a 1250 I got a couple of months ago and doesn't appear to leak and does not smoke. I am now assuming the po sold it because of the knock. Now that I think of it, it was more of an internal rattle than a knock. The way I can jiggle the gear explains that clearly. My only problem now is I can't find my lock ring pliers. This is my first encounter with grenade gears but I'm sure not my last.
If anyone has any words of wisdom or tricks of the trade about what I'm doing please chime in. I am not going to finish today because of the pliers being MIA.
Thanks again for all of the "learning".
If anyone has any words of wisdom or tricks of the trade about what I'm doing please chime in. I am not going to finish today because of the pliers being MIA.
Thanks again for all of the "learning".
KENtuckyKEN
I said I would post a picture in the am of a hole drilled in the breather cover.Yep not the proper name and some told me them holes were for oil drainage. Here is what I used on a stubborn starting Cub. Just a little shot of wd40 and it would pick up the fuel then and run. If I did not give the tractor a little spray it would take forever to start.WFM
I said I would post a picture in the am of a hole drilled in the breather cover.Yep not the proper name and some told me them holes were for oil drainage. Here is what I used on a stubborn starting Cub. Just a little shot of wd40 and it would pick up the fuel then and run. If I did not give the tractor a little spray it would take forever to start.WFM
