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Archive through May 11, 2006
- Thread starter dkirk
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Hello all! Been a while. After installing a new from Kohlor engine in my 149 it is still passing oil mist from the breatherafter about 6-7 hours of seat time. How long should it take this to go away??? Am a bit worried, power is great but the oil on the side of tractor is a pain. HELP!!!
K
kmcgiver
Guest
Hey ya'll whatcha been doing? I noticed a couple pretty good diagrams on 782's and such but I did not look at um close. But here is what I did to put a command in a 782. I added one relay and one wire, the rest stayed original. I connected one of the NC terminals of a relay (87A) to ground, the other I connected to the Kill wire (White) of dim dere solid state ignition coils to terminal #(30). Din I connected the wire that originally went to the ignition coil of the KT series engine to one of the field winding terminals #(85) of the relay then I ran the other field winding terminal (86)to ground. Dat dere made her work off the original harness and key switch. All the safety switches and all work perfectly. I went back to the sole switch and connected the battery wire to the same terminal as the starter wire (good lord I am cheap!!!!) I had to stretch that there starter wire for all it was good for so that it would reach the Kohler shift sole starter on the Command and I also has to enlarge the eyelet slightly to make it fit the stud on the sole. (Gotta love them there rat-tail files.) Lastly I removed the solenoid engagement wire from the old solenoid and lengthened to reach the Command engine starter solenoid.
Dats just my 2 cents worth from a redneck hack.
Ya'll have a good one!
Mc
Dats just my 2 cents worth from a redneck hack.
Ya'll have a good one!
Mc
K Mcgyver
Thanks for the command re-wire info.
Unfortunately, the installer that put the command in the 782 wired it up with the newer style switch (1811/12?) but did not wire it properly. The kill wire is wired through the seat switch, to the key, so you have to sit on the seat to turn off the tractor. At this point I think it would be more work to re-wire it as original and then do the relay mod.
Thanks tho...
Thanks for the command re-wire info.
Unfortunately, the installer that put the command in the 782 wired it up with the newer style switch (1811/12?) but did not wire it properly. The kill wire is wired through the seat switch, to the key, so you have to sit on the seat to turn off the tractor. At this point I think it would be more work to re-wire it as original and then do the relay mod.
Thanks tho...
Charlie,
I'm not sure if JB Weld would do it by itself, but if I reinforced it with some baling wire looped over the piston pin then tied around the dipper, then wrapped the rod with some high-temp muffler repair wrap, I could sell it on ePay as "reconditioned." I'd probably have to drill some holes in the piston skirt to keep from throwing off the balance....
Bruce N,
I don't know yet about the block/bore. There are no holes in the block, and I didn't find any chunks of bore-shaped iron in the pan, just rod pieces. All I've done so far is take off the iron oil pan to swap it onto the used replacement engine. The aluminum pan from the engine I'm putting into the 147 had a bolt broken off in the left rear threaded mounting hole, and the left front had the threads stripped out of it. I just took off the iron pan and removed what's in the picture. What I could see of the crank didn't have any ugly marks, but there's still something jamming. I won't look at it until later. I put the aluminum pan on the broken engine to seal it from moisture and keep it from leaking all over the place, and it's sitting on a bench until sometime this summer. I figured I'd finish one project before I started another, kind of a new approach for me. The iron pan got wiped out, degreased, pressure washed, primed, painted, and is drying now before being put onto the replacement engine waiting to go to its new home.
I'm not sure if JB Weld would do it by itself, but if I reinforced it with some baling wire looped over the piston pin then tied around the dipper, then wrapped the rod with some high-temp muffler repair wrap, I could sell it on ePay as "reconditioned." I'd probably have to drill some holes in the piston skirt to keep from throwing off the balance....
Bruce N,
I don't know yet about the block/bore. There are no holes in the block, and I didn't find any chunks of bore-shaped iron in the pan, just rod pieces. All I've done so far is take off the iron oil pan to swap it onto the used replacement engine. The aluminum pan from the engine I'm putting into the 147 had a bolt broken off in the left rear threaded mounting hole, and the left front had the threads stripped out of it. I just took off the iron pan and removed what's in the picture. What I could see of the crank didn't have any ugly marks, but there's still something jamming. I won't look at it until later. I put the aluminum pan on the broken engine to seal it from moisture and keep it from leaking all over the place, and it's sitting on a bench until sometime this summer. I figured I'd finish one project before I started another, kind of a new approach for me. The iron pan got wiped out, degreased, pressure washed, primed, painted, and is drying now before being put onto the replacement engine waiting to go to its new home.
Steve B., great pics of the 656, one of my favorite IH tractors. I spent many hours riding, like Chris, on the fender of my cousin's 656 (it's a NF). It was the first tractor he bought new and is one he says he will never sell. Nice progress on the 149's loader.
I'm just gonna set here and wait to see if Travis has the guts to show us his new BEAVER!
bnyquist
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2002
- Messages
- 28
- displayname
- Bruce N. Original, 70, 100, 72, 127, 1250, 1450
My 1450 was turning into a dedicated tiller/blower because I bought a new Grasshopper zero turn with 61" deck. Liquid cooled 25 HP rips through grass in a hurry. What used to take nearly 6 hours now takes an hour.
This one has me stumped .
I purchased a new starter for my 72, and after running for 30 minutes the case of the starter gets so hot you can not hold your hand to it with out burning your skin.
The starter on my 102 only get warm to the touch after running for over an hour.
I called the place where I got the starter from and asked them about how hot it should get, and was told that as long as it charges when hot it does not matter how hot it got.
This does not sound right, so I switched the new starter over to the 102, thinking I might have a short in the 72's wireing. and after 30 minutes its way to hot to handle, but is putting out 13.45 to 13.55 volts.
Should I just run it like this or will I end up haveing to replace the starter/gen in a few hours of run time.
Stumped in wis.
I purchased a new starter for my 72, and after running for 30 minutes the case of the starter gets so hot you can not hold your hand to it with out burning your skin.
The starter on my 102 only get warm to the touch after running for over an hour.
I called the place where I got the starter from and asked them about how hot it should get, and was told that as long as it charges when hot it does not matter how hot it got.
This does not sound right, so I switched the new starter over to the 102, thinking I might have a short in the 72's wireing. and after 30 minutes its way to hot to handle, but is putting out 13.45 to 13.55 volts.
Should I just run it like this or will I end up haveing to replace the starter/gen in a few hours of run time.
Stumped in wis.
Steve,
THEM? He's got more than one new BEAVER!!!!! OH MY!
THEM? He's got more than one new BEAVER!!!!! OH MY!
Anthony,
Polarize the starter?
How is that done?
I followed the polarizing instruction when installing a new voltage regulator, ( starter installed & wired ) but did not have any instructions on how do to it to the starter.
In fact I had never heard of doing it. Polarizing a starter.
Polarize the starter?
How is that done?
I followed the polarizing instruction when installing a new voltage regulator, ( starter installed & wired ) but did not have any instructions on how do to it to the starter.
In fact I had never heard of doing it. Polarizing a starter.
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Charlie just wants me to get in trouble for posting this!!
I bought one of these with a 4' Bush hog to mow my ditches. That's also the reason I decided to sell the turbo diesel :-(
I bought one of these with a 4' Bush hog to mow my ditches. That's also the reason I decided to sell the turbo diesel :-(
tschweizer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 16, 2000
- Messages
- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Nope, it's a Beaver 3 with a 3cyl engine and updated front knuckles.
Can someone verify or deny this information for me?
http://cubfaq.com/nfpumpbelt.html
http://cubfaq.com/nfpumpbelt.html
Charlie: The 386160-R1 is correct for the optional Hydraulic Pump accessory on the models listed. The other belt (401960-R1) is listed for the S/G only. Both are categorized as "engine drive belts" so it is possible I suppose. The 1x8/9 either used the Hydrostatic system (109,129,149,169)or the Electric lift (gear shifts). The auxillary hydro pump was not offered on this series.
My belt book says that the 401960-R1 is 3/8 x 31 11/16, not the 33 11/16 length you posted. So, if its shorter how is it gonna work on a frame that is widened at that point?? Probably won't. I suggest that belt be dropped as a hydraulic pump belt from the CubFaq unless someone else has some documented info I don't.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
(Message edited by mbounds on May 15, 2006)
My belt book says that the 401960-R1 is 3/8 x 31 11/16, not the 33 11/16 length you posted. So, if its shorter how is it gonna work on a frame that is widened at that point?? Probably won't. I suggest that belt be dropped as a hydraulic pump belt from the CubFaq unless someone else has some documented info I don't.
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
(Message edited by mbounds on May 15, 2006)
