Archive through May 11, 2006

[dkirk]

Craig,

On the crankcase pressure, check the breather to be sure the reed valve is assembled properly and is seating against the ported plate. Be sure the valve lash is set properly, .008 for intake, .018 on exhaust. I wouldn't think valve sticking would be the culprit on a newly-rebuilt engine.

I've never been a fan of boring a 3.375 bore out to 3.5 inch diameter - that's a lot of cylinder wall material being removed with a resultant loss of strength and integrity of the bore. Heat will cause the thinner walls to distort more easily, especially in that area of the bore adjacent to the exhaust valve. Blowby will be noticeable in this area after a few hours of running. I hope this is not the case with your engine. Might be a good idea to run it for another 5 hours then remove the head again to inspect the bore.

Don't mean to be a profit of doom and gloom; some guys get away with this...others don't. Seems to depend on how concentric the bore is with the casting.

 

[thoffman]

Hey Ken "U",
This wouldn't be your Daddy would it? ;-)

 

[thoffman]

THEE place to go before Plow Day! Note the sign above counter.

 

[kupdike]

Tommy H....Not my dad. He was a 40+ year man at GM.....

 

[jlang]

Rainy day here today, stopped by my friendly local dealer and saw this kind of nice unit in the line up!

I think it used to belong to one of my seed customers. I remember him telling me about it and I didn't think IH made a 10 HP hydrostat drive GT.

What year would it be?

What is this a tool box area? no battery here?

 

[ctrost]

there were 10 hp hydros... 106? 107,108,109- of which my dad still has, on 2nd motor rebuild now, i grew up mowing the lawn with that thing and it still goes!

 

[digger]

Yea John and they only want $400.00 and it smokes a little!

 

[bnyquist]

I am going to transfer my tiller from the 129 to the 1450. The 1450 has a hydralic lift.

Question: Is the hydralic lift powerful enough to lift the tiller without the aid of spring assistance? Is using a spring on a hydralic unit even possible?

Question: How important is having ag tires vs. agressive turf tires for tilling?

Thanks

 

[bmcmeen]

It was lunch time again in Chicago. Hopefully today's menu selections will get a passing grade from the cuisine-impaired...

Ray L:

You know who:

Mike F:

Ray - nice to see you again.
Mike F - great to meet you.

Perhaps next time we can hit the hot dog joint next to Buckingham Fountain.

 

[rleo]

John L.
Yes, the owner's manual on my 147 designates the compartment under the seat for tools.

Bryan:
As always, a Hearty lunch and some good conversation about tractors AND trains. <font size="-2">and your patience with all my simple questions</font> See you at the fountain this summer. If it's a windy day, take your swim suit. . .

}

Mike:
Ditto. It was good to meet you. See you on the Metra.

 

[dfrisk]

BRYAN - What.... No Cheese on Your Frys? And is that a Polish Sausage Mike's having? Looks good! Ray's sandwich looks good too but there's so amny onions on it I can't tell what it is!
BRUCE - I don't know about Your hyd. lift lifting the tiller, but I would guess it will lift it fine but tillers do not pull hard through the ground....Turf tires are fine...You'll use the tractor to mostly hold the tiller back from running through the ground too fast. Now keeping the tiller tines turning WILL require HP. The move from 129 to 1450 is a good one.

 

[ctrost]

bruce-

the unless the hydraulic lift is different in your 1450 than the 782's (weaker) it should work just fine

 

[bnyquist]

Thanks Guys........ I was hoping the spring would not be needed.

Good to put a face to The Keeper after all these years.

 

[bcook]

Colin T: Keep in mind that excluding the 7hp and Quietline tractors, 'odd' number tractors were hydros.....

The 10 hp hydros were 105, 107, and 109

Bruce: I have a model 2 tiller on my 1450, the tractor has no trouble at all lifting the tiller. As long as the hydraulic lift on your 1450 is operating properly, you should have absolutely no problems

(Message edited by Bcook on May 12, 2006)

 

[digger]

Man!
I'm glad we only have to see that junk food once a year!

 

[bnyquist]

My 129 won't start....... getting fuel but no spark. Funny thing is it was fine when I parked it last fall.

Could a coil just up and fail?? It's a ford coil that replace it if I remember correctly.

 

[fbainbridge]

Hi bruce I would use a test light to see if you have juice at the positive side of the coil.If that is ok iwould check the points.

 

[fbainbridge]

Hi Bruce Many times when you let a piece of equiptment sit over the winter the oil drains off the cylinder wall and the rings,the compression than goes straight to the crankcase.I would seal the rings buy putting a small amount of oil in the cylinder,than turn the engine over a few dozen times with the plug out. Install a new plug and see if it starts

 

[sblunier]

Chris E came down last weekend to bring my new loader and then spent some time in the field planting corn.

Monica brought the kids out for a little while too.

The 800 planter is light years ahead of the 400 we use to plant with!!!!

 

[sblunier]

Took the day off today and played with my new K-W loader.

I got it installed on the 149 OK and pulled off all of the junk hyd. hoses.

Uprights were not sitting correctly, not level/square.

Turns out the loader braces were originally for a Sears tractor.

I marveled at the lift height (76" to the bucket pivot) for a while before fixing the uprights.

Much better after Big Blue worked some magic...

Emma approved of the modification...

Buckets are both in nice shape...

I'm thinking that the manure fork will make a very nice little pallet fork for 1/2 sized pallets. Tines are 1" solid square stock.

Next step is to get the valve mounted, pump bracket made, fix the bucke pivot bushings, and then get some new hoses made.

Can't wait to play with this little toy!!!!