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Archive through May 11, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I take off the mower deck anytime I find it on the tractor... the tractor's for pulling wagons full of compost or weeds, trailers full of scrap steel, engines, etc., broken/cut tree limbs, boats on carts, the dock walkway, plows, or pullin' sleds.

Or I'll attach the blade and push snow, dirt, gravel, or any of the above...

...but not mow- that's what the Zero-Turn is for!!!
 
Uhh....I don't think I'm going to be taking this 60" deck off the 1872 anytime soon...
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<font size="-2">But I can tell you that it's so fun mowing with this thing that I watched the Domino's Pizza delivery guy drive up the drive way and leave a few minutes later and I didn't even get off the tractor for another hour...Now that says a lot!</font>
;-)
 
An interesting dilemma ... my Cub 129 will not start unless I remove the battery cables from the battery, scrub them slightly with a wire brush, then re-attach them. If I try to start the engine without doing this, I will hear a "clip-clock" sound but it will not "fire-up."

My sense is that I need a new starter. I have seen them on E-bay for about $90. Is there a way to tell for sure that this is the issue?
 
Dave W. The electric lift has a slip clutch adjustment on the end of the ram to allow it to spin at the end of the stroke. I had to run mine tighter when I used the snowthrower on my 147. I do think a spring asist on the rock shaft would help.
 
Sorry, I should have mentioned that my battery is fine. I bought a new battery thinking that it was the culprit, but I was wrong. As long as I clean-off the cable heads, it fires-up with both the old and the new battery.
 
Eric, did you check the rest of the electrical connections? It could be a bad ground or it could be the starter switch itself. Did you clean up the connections on the starter/generator (S/G)? You can have your S/G rebuilt for less than the cost of a new one or it's not to hard to replace the brushes in them yourself.

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Hi,

I have a Cub Cadet 782 Hydro. Drove the tractor for about 5 minutes then the hydro died. The engines runs, but no hydro.

The hydro unit (control) feels very loose, absolutely no feedback.

Can anyone offer some suggestions?

Someone suggested to me that the linkage might be the problem. Where should I check for the linkage. Is it a mechanical linkage with pins?

Is there a diagram that someone can share with me?

Thanks!!
 
Had a great day today, picked up a 3 section spring tooth smoothing drag, it has the IHC logo on each spring tooth, and best of all it was free.
 
Eric...
It sounds like (to me) that your battery posts, connectors, or cables are corroding between starts... and likely in a few other places. The clip-clop you're hearing is the starter solenoid engaging... and note that it's not a 'starter'... it's a starter-generator (s-g)... not quite the same as a typical starter. It does have brushes, and you might have one brush or commutator pole that's bad... in which case, you could simply turn the motor just a tad, try the key, and get successful results. It doesn't sound like that's been the condition, but you may wanna give it a check just-in-case.

Try something... try starting it, with just the clip-clop... hold the key in the start position for about 5 seconds. Release the key. Feel the following posts and cables:

battery posts
Ground cable from SG to frame
Ground cable from battery to frame
posts on starter solenoid (under dash- lift hood, reach under fuel-tank)

All of these connections should be stone-cold. If they're warm, it's because there's resistance in the wire or connection.

Since you say cleaning/tightening the cables has a positive effect, it's reasonable to assume that you've determined the problem, but not localized it. If you find a warm cable or connection, you've localized it.

Two things that would make what you describe happen include:

--stray battery acid working between the posts and cable connectors.

--a cable that has wicked in moisture (by capillary action), and corroded somewhere INSIDE the length of the cable, probably not too far from the battery, and by disconnecting, cleaning, and reassembling the connectors, you're partially re-establishing the connection.

For the first, take a cup of water, and put a tablespoon of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) on each post and clamp, sprinkle in some water, and scrub it with a toothbrush... rinse it again, get all the stuff of.

For the second, take the cables in your hands, one at a time, and flex 'em back and forth every inch or two. If you get to a point that feels 'crunchy', just take it off and replace it. If you take a knife and strip the insulation off, you'll find that the 'crunchy' area is full of green powder, and very little wire... the green crunchy stuff is oxidized copper, no longer capable of carrying current worth a darn.

FWIW, I've found battery cables 5' long, where a segment right in the middle was corroded to junk, but the ends looked perfect.
 
Dave, you're trying to get his fingers burnt
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I've been in contact with your lady friend. She says she was waiting to hear from you??????

Harvey, change the filter and Hytran. There's no resistance if there's no hydraulic pressure.
 
Had a good weekend hauling my cubs home from Nick Q's since I have been busy since the WFM Spring Break. Even mowed the lawn with the "new" 582 that I bought from Nick, updated the 44" deck with the front wheels and WOW do they make a difference, makes me wonder how I got along without them, no more scalpping on the sidehill plus now I don't have to use the wife's Deere John push mower.
 
Speaking of batteries....

Earlier this spring, I found that my 4 year old battery on my 129 had died over winter. I went to NAPA to get a new one, same place I got the old one. The old battery was a 360 "cold cranking amp" battery. Napa was only stocking a 300 CCA battery-they said it would work fine on my 12hp engine.

Well the 300 CCA just doesn't have the power of the 360 CCA. It works ok in warm weather, but I'm not sure it will be great in cold weather.

Did CC ever list a recommended power for a replacement battery. My parts list only gives an IH part #.
 
Hey Travis- Nah, he won't burn his hands... if he does, he'll be absolutely certain where the problem is!

Hey Jerry... the 60 CCA difference shouldn't have a noticeable effect, if the rating is actually correct. Note that :
12v x 300A = 3600 watts = 4.8hp.
12v x 360A = 4320 watts = 5.8hp.

Seein's how the motor-generator is really only capable of putting out about 1hp of mechanical effort in 'start' mode, and it's electrical input is somewheres around 1100w (yeah, the motor's only about 70% efficient), that 1100w mathematically yields an anticipated current flow (at 12v) of 90A or so. I haven't put an ammeter on one, but I'll bet that if you did, you'd see that in worst-case, it sit around 75A for most of the revolution, and jump to mebbie 100 momentarily during the compression stroke.

I'm not home right now, but if I were, I'd put my clamp-on ammeter on that weenie little battery cable and see what it really draws, but perhaps there's someone who can take a quick measurement for us.

If your starting performance is lacking, though... mebbie a little freshening-up of the S/G would help out... they wear, and can start to drag just like any other rotating electrical device...
 
Actually, a perfectly-fine way to see if you're asking too much of a battery... is to put voltmeter leads on DIRECTLY on the battery posts, and observe the voltage drop when turning the key. If it drops down more than 2 volts, you're putting a substantial load on it. If it doesn't drop that far, it's doing just fine.

If the engine's turning over lazy, and you're not seeing voltage drop across the posts, start feelin' cables- you'll have a hot one (or a hot solenoid, or dragging starter) somewhere.

On another topic: MythBusters my A$$... they need to improve their research and analysis skills... One of the few things I hate about this job, is weeks spent away-from-home, away from the workshop, etc., spending evenings watching TV, waiting for tomorrow, so I can get back to work... {sigh} guess I was born to move... Hey- for all you railfans, I'll snap a few digi-pix of DC Metro this afternoon. If you wanna see something special (that average Joe never gets to see), let me know!

(Message edited by dkamp on May 12, 2004)
 
Dave,

Hit me!!!

I like my commute these days. Two construction sites that are in the dirt work phase. Both have a pair of Quadra-tracks draging double scrapers. Cool to see them snorting around in the mud and dirt.
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Only problem is the closest one to work also has three JD 95XX units on site too. I guess it take three of them to do the work of two of ours.
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Though the one Deere has a big old disk set on it. Them disks have to be about 30" in diameter!!!

Back to your normal programing
 
Help! My 1450 is is in dire need of a tuneup. I think the points are on their way out. I don't have a shop manual for this tractor and I really need to get it going before I can have one here in the mail. Could anyone tell me the procedure for installing and adjusting the points on this 14 horse Kohler? I don't even know what gap they are supposed to have. Thank you very much for any help you can give me!
 

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