Archive through May 10, 2013

[hydroharry]

Mike S - on your 10hp engine idle situation you said
"There is not much range in the throttle lever. I'm at full idle halfway up the scale. "

This sounds to me like you're saying you move your throttle lever half way up attempting to increase the engine speed and it just stays at the idle speed. If so, this tells me that when you move the throttle lever you are not moving the spring connected to the bottom of the governor. You need to check the cable mount clamp on the side of the block. You should be able to loosen the screw and slide the cable back until you see it just begin to move the spring on the bottom of the governor. Then move it back very very slightly so there is no tension on the spring when your throttle lever is in the full idle position. This should give you the full idle to full high speed throttle range. I recommend you check the rpm's at high speed once you do this to make sure you are not over reving the engine.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - I understood what Mike said to mean that he moves the throttle lever just a very little bit and the engine goes from idle to full speed.

But you're correct, the outer cable sheath has to be tight in the clamp on the block. If it moves at all, you won't have good throttle control.

And checking high no-load engine RPM is important, for a K241, 3800 no-load so you run 3600 full load. Some people sneek them up to 4000, maybe a bit higher but remember who's FEET are right next to the flywheel if it gernades. If you want to run a Billet flywheel, or an engine blanket then you can run them faster. I remember the picture here years ago of an engine that the flywheel exploded on. Wasn't much more than scrap left. Think someone posted a link here to the video of the 1206 FARMALL that had something "stick" in the injection pump and the engine
ran away" when it got done pulling at a tractor pull last year. Whole tractor broke in two at the end of the track. Same thing could happen to a Cub Cadet.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - ya Mike said "full idle halfway up". Don't know if that means no change to idle speed or full high speed. Hope he posts back so we know. Also hope he gets rid of that RTV sticky stuff. I just use the paper gasket myself, and prefer the thick one you mentioned. And you're also absolutely right about checking the no-load and full-load rpm's. In my experience I never dropped in a different engine that I didn't have to play with the cable and throttle settings.

 

[mstandish]

Thanks for all the info guys. My terminology was in fact misleading. Half throttle meant full speed. I essentially have a very small range from idle to full speed. Adjusting the cable only moves that range on the throttle (near top or bottom) and does not improve the range.
Upon watching the carb (top spring thing), almost as soon as it comes off the idle screw, it starts to scream.
I take it a strobe light will be needed to check RPM? Where on the motor should I be looking to get that RPM?
Maybe I could get an explanation on how the cable to spring to leaver to carb connections should work? I'm an amateur.
Oh, I didn't overheat. I ran out of gas. Anyone got my sign?
Still have the motor speed fluctuation when mowing and throttle not being moved though.

 

[pfunk]

Mike S. It sounds like to me your governor isn't working. If it were me, the first thing I would check is the governor setting. I know there's a complete description on how to do it in the manual and it's probably somewhere on this site. I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction.

 

[pfunk]

Mike S. The adjustment procedure is here. If that link doesn't work, it's number 22 under Charlie's FAQ. Hope this helps you out.

 

[mstandish]

Thanks Paul, I'll try that and get back to you guys.

 

[mstandish]

The governor adjustment was the problem! I adjusted the through rod a good quarter turn. The more I learn the more fun it is. Now I just need to find a tachometer to adjust my RPM to the right speed. I have it set low until I can verify what it is. Thanks guys!

 

[bjamison]

Update: Engine from 122 is ready to drop into the 126. As far as I can tell, the wiring harness seems to be intact and OK - we'll see.

Need to replace the teaser spring - which I have. Question is - when you drive out the roll pins (with your 100 pt roll pin punch), do you block-up the end of the drive shaft with something like a piece of 2 x 4 or just bang away and drive the pins out?

Also managed to loose one of my new anti-rattle clutch springs...

Getting close with this 126 for a test drive to see what I've got.

 

[gcamille]

Got the electrical problem fixed on the 129. the voltage regulator was wired wrong.

How many of you guys after buying an abused running IHCC, wandered what was the last mechanical failure that brought it to it's end with the P.O. ?

The tention pulley on the deck was froze up, but that probably happended from sitting. After the engine PTO button was ground down, and the throw out levers were ground down, one half gone. A mule pulley missing. The battery not charging from wiring problems. Fuel system clogged with rust.

Good thing there is some of us that don't give up on these wonderful machines. Thanks for your help guys.

Now if I get to use it. Snow doesn't want to give up, grass just sprouting. But I feel for most of you, grass keeps growing and the rain doesn't quit.

I can figure out most mechanical things, but how do those darn hood latches work ? Just a simple wire. Riiight.

 

[lhinds]

Bill support the driveshaft when removing the coil pins. Also replace the coil pins with new pins when reassembling if they are worn.

 

[dtanner]

Gary Camille

The hood latches when the hood is down just lift up on the end of the wire and it slips in to a clip on both sides of the dash tower.When clipped in there should be some tension on the wire to hold the hood down. My 129 I bought the PO cut the ends off because he could not think of a way to release them to get the hood up.

have a look up under your dash panel on each side of the dash tower . You will see where to slip the end of the wire to clip it when the hood is down.

 

[jbaker]

Gary thanks for saving a cub cadet

 

[hydroharry]

Gary C - yup, seen several like you're describing. The PO wears everything past normal to the abuse point, and then keeps on using it just to pull something around - like a boat or something - and then says it's a good tractor, just doesn't start. The 129 is a nice unit, does alot of things, and if you have or get the hydraulic lift for it, it's that much sweeter.

Mike S - glad to hear you got the governor adjusted and resolved your problem. As for getting a tach to check rpm's, there's been alot of discussion on here off and on over along time. Hard to find a good single cylinder tach for what I think is a reasonable price. I just use a vibra-tach myself. I think you can find them for less than $20 and it's worth that for peace of mind knowing you're not over-reving. You need to make sure you got your carb set up and adjusted good, and I'd make sure your points and timing are spot on as well. Ya don't want to be running your Kohler K lean, they like to run a bit on the rich side, and if you're timing is to far advanced you can burn thru your piston. Have to do these basic things to make sure it's all correct, and she'll usually hold there for a good long time once all set.

 

[dsauve]

After many years in town, I'm back out in the country! The tiller for the 129 has sat for several years, the belts are shot. The CC parts look up tells me they are no longer available. Does anyone know the size so I can source them somewhere else? As luck would have it the nearest dealer closed an hour after I discovered the issue.

I'd really like to get the garden tilled this weekend.

 

[digger]

Dean S.
They are still available and the sponsor buttons above will prove it. ;-P
So will the FAQ's. http://cubfaq.com/belts4.html
IH-549250-R1

 

[dsauve]

Thanks, Charlie!

 

[kharvey]

Hey Charlie did the governor stop by to see the cub cadets on his way to the fishing opener?

 

[thoffman]

Is it possible that a Haban mower can have just a 402 with no "letters" behind it that will fit a Cub Cadet?? A guy has one with 402 and 225 or something behind it. The guy isn't much help and I not sriving all over the place to get the wrong mower.

 

[mstandish]

Thanks Harry B. for the carb setup info. I'll have to do that next time a get a chance.
I was researching the RPM tach this morning and ordered a Briggs and Stratton 19200 vibration tach for $30. Not the cheapest, but it'll last the rest of my life. I had considered an electronic tach/hour meter but went with the vibra tach instead.