Archive through May 10, 2013

[proessler]

Rob...Tiller Time... Matt G customized for his tiller / 3 point...mgonitzkenet16.net ?
Factory for 782 serial # 720,000 & above ( 1, 1A, 2, & 2B ) use 3 point 190-389, 190-372 adapt. Pkg., 190-385 mule drive Pkg. if don't have 38" deck, 135554C1 5/8" Drive Pulley, Lower support Assy. 485286R3, & Belt 106819C1
Serial # 665,001 to 719,999 have different Pkg./Sleeve hitch 19X-382, 19X-373 Adapt. Pkg.,135553C1 Belt

 

[bdmiller]

Hey guys, just wanting to see what brand and weight oil you recommend for my k301. I'm getting the 122 Mutt ready to take to Portland on Friday. Anyone else going? Thanks

 

[digger]

Kendal H.
Uh-huh! Ya sure you betcha!
Being a MinneSNOWtan, you honestly think the goof has ever seen a real Cub Cadet!
If he did, he'd probably have the DNR and EPA start testing on them, LOL

 

[bjamison]

Got the Boys hiding the gasoline, matches and baseball bat.

I dropped a head bolt down into the flywheel tin on the 126 - after the engine was installed....

Quick question - the anti-rattlle springs on the PTO, I found the 3rd one at a dealer today and when I put them on, they hardly look like they would stay wrapped around the clutch disk. Do you give them a bend to hold them better place?

 

[hydroharry]

Mike S - that B/S version is the same one I have. I think they are made in Germany or Italy. Pretty neat the way it works. You have to understand from the instructions which will be in 4 languages, so I know you won't have a problem, but if you do after you get it, just post back here for help.

 

[rwilke]

Bill J.,
Personally, I would not worry about the anti-rattle clips.
I installed mine, then within an hour two of them flew out.
I continued to run my 129 without them and noticed no difference. JMHO...
RWilke

 

[cengelking]

Tom, I saw the same one, for the price you wouldn't get burned with it.

 

[dfrisk]

MIKE S. - Here's the quick way to check RPM, http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Photo-Laser-Tachometer-Contact/dp/B000EUT9ZS

They're cheaper, work on ANYTHING that moves, Zero to 100,000 RPM. Just need a little piece of reflective tape (incuded) on the PTO pulley or starter.generator pulley and you're in business. Point & shoot, read the number. I've had mine 10+ yrs, and I paid a LOT more than $21 for it. I also recommend removing the batteries from the unit before you put it away. The cheap imported batteries tend to leak after a while.

BILL J. - Put those PTO anti-rattle clips in a small jar and up on the back of the highest shelf in your shop for safe keeping. My basket on my 72's S/G pulley is really worn and I can't keep mine in even 2-3 minutes. The K241 I put 1400 hours on sounded like the rod was knocking the whole time and the K321 sounds the same.... It's just a Kohler thing! I do use the springs on the engine clutch on the GD's. You have to put them in the drive pins BEFORE you slide the engine back into place, then pull the ends over the clutch disk. If you put them on after you slide the engine back, they will stay put until about 1800 RPM when you first wind up the engine, the little ends lift off the OD of the disk from centrifugal force and they're gone!

 

[fcurrier]

A gentle push from Hydro got my yellow/white juices flowing a bit today and the 169 is in the CubHouse, though the K341 is still in the cellar. We're gaining. Checked the hydro fluid and found it 2 quarts low. Anybody got an idea how low the fluid can get without causing damage? This tractor has done nothing but mow, as far as I can tell. For you who don't know, this 169 "fell in here out of the Blue" (darn idioms)

last fall and all I did was push it onto a trailer and haul it home, knowing the engine was blown. Knowing (because of hanging around this Forum) that there were only 4,005 of these built I felt pretty special to have the chance to adopt one of the ones that's left. Finally decided to start a thread in the Sandbox for 169 owners to show theirs off. That thread has had mixed reviews but it's still there, and I swear Gerry, it wasn't meant to be as much informative as show-offy.

That being said, and if I haven't timed out already,

 

[hydroharry]

That right Frank - no one on this thread cares about you installing the non-stock digital hour meter in the side panel on the side where you couldn't read the numbers. No one else has hour meters in their side panels cept'n us 169 owners so why would anyone else care.
Now, how is it you get down in your cellar?

Dennis - gol-dang-it. I went and forgot all about that digital version. I'm just to cheap to spend the money since I already got the vibra tach, and I sorta like the way that wire sticks out and bounces around, then goes in a circular motion when it's at the right rpm.

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: We have inside cellar stairs and an outside Bilco. Jeanne says I should use the Bilco and it's hard to admit she's right. I've been feeling like the guy that built an airplane in his cellar! I'll end up clearing a path to the Bilco and taking it out that way. She'll have to help (she reminded me of the moving cart in the first place) because it seems all my other friends have bad backs or are just lazy.

I can edit. Before I got lazy and a question was asked that I could answer I'd jump on it. Now I wait for someone else to do it. Case in point: Someone asked about adding a suicide knob. My best answer would've been to get a steering wheel like yours (from an 1811?) because it's thicker and more adaptable to most of the knobs I've seen.

 

[bjamison]

I had a good day with the 126, inspite of a few set-backs. It rained in my neck of the woods all day and for the afternoon until this evening, my family was busy away from the house, so me and the dog settled-in to work on the 126, continuing from last night's efforts.

Got the head bolt out of the engine tin and the engine is installed - yippie!!! Thanks for everyone's help!

Some lessons learned -

1. I need an engine hoist.
2. I'm starting to love wide frame tractors.
3. The shortest flywheel housing tin bolt is short for a reason - so you don't lock the flywheel from rotating when you put it in the right position vs one of the longer bolts...

I think Dennis F suggested checking the teaser spring and sure enough mine was broken, but had a new one on hand and installed it - thanks again!

If I have some time, I may install the engine head, start hooking-up the electrical and fuel connections and see if the 126 will start.

Quick question - this K301 has 5 studs on the engine head. Question is - how far down into the head do I screw the studs? All the way down until I run out of threads or do I leave a few threads unthreaded?

 

[bdmiller]

Anyone going up to Portland this week?

 

[gcamille]

Don T. I never got to look at the hood latches today. The wire seems to wedge deep under the dash panel. I'm wondering if it is due to hood alinement, after having the hood/grill off. Should I have the hood down and jammed into the latches before tightening the grill ? I was just looking at the gap between hood and panel, what looked good.

Jeff B. Thanks, but no Thanks needed. The reward is in the machine, well worth the work.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - Actually, what I said was, "Replace the clutch teaser sping EVERY TIME you have a GD CC clutch apart." Because they're a pain to drive smoothly with a broken teaser spring. Every time you start to move you basically "POP" the clutch. And since they live at constant "coil bind" they do break. And they're cheap, and kinda a pain to replace.

I'd put the studs in at the bottom of the threads so they grip the most metal in the block. You don't have to really force them, just make sure they're snug.

HARRY - I had a "Tiny Tach" on the K301 in my 129 before the forum was created. It worked fine for a year or two then died and I took it off. I liked the tach part and the hour meter function was great for scheduling service. I put a HOBBS hour meter on my #72 right after I installed the K241 back in 1985. It's under the battery tray facing forward. You have NO IDEA how hard it is to install a 1/8" thk steel plate with the hour meter in that location. But it's out of the way, relatively easy to read, and works fine. The photo tach is SUCH a handy tool. It's been used many times. I ordered an infared temp gun at the same time, a good Raytech one, http://www.raytek.com/Raytek/en-r0/ProductsAndAccessories/PortableThermometers/PortableThermometersSeries/AutoProST25-AutomotiveHandheld/Default.htm

I'd had an older cheaper one for 8-10 yrs, SON & I used it to tune our R/C car race engines. Too cold of cyl. head temp was too rich a fuel/air mixture and lost performance and wasted fuel, meaning short run times between pit stops. Too hot of head temp was lean and wears engines out WAY too fast, also the engines will stall if they get too hot. Either way you lose races. It worked fine until I checked the head temp on SON's K301 in his 129 one day, the electo-magnetic radio interference from the ignition system fried the printed circuit board, paid almost as much to fix it as I paid for it! BTW, same interference killed the Tiny Tach until Bryan McMeen worked with the owner of Tiny Tach and fixed the problem! (Thanks Bryan!)

Also, had to move the #72 yesterday for the first time since mid-November. Battery was disconnected so wasn't dead. Turned the gas on, hit the switch and it rolled over twice and started! Idled around for close to an hour and never missed a beat. I know the 982 won't start that quick. The gas always evaporates out of the carb float bowl. It hasn't run since early November. And NO, I don't use Stabil, MMO, or Sea Foam. Just Kwik-Trip 91 octane straight 100% gasoline mixed with about 20% SUNOCO 110 octane leaded race gas.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank - well, you got that engine into the cellar and it seems to me it oughta come back out the same way. I'm thinking I remember seeing a hand truck off to the side in one of your pics. Should be able to use that to get it up the steps - and if'n you can 4 arms on it I'd bet it will come up the steps alot quicker.
Now, what was this steering wheel stuff? My 169 has an original IH steering wheel from a later production unit, and it's got a nice silver grey IH emblem in the middle of the center cap. I mentioned before my 169 has several pre and post production items on it - but it's all original IH. I think the steering wheel you're referring to is on the Super Garden units. It is bigger around and thicker and the suicide knob probably fits and works nicely - except you really don't need with since most of those units have power steering anyway.

Bill J - here's some quick answers to your lessons learned comments:

1 - wasn't long ago you posted a pic of an engine hoist. I believe it included 2 kids and a 4x4 with a chain.

2 - if you're starting to love wide frames does that mean you're starting to un-love narrow frames?

3 - Now, about that short bolt used on the flywheel shroud. Is it the one that mounts towards the bottom at about the 7 o'clock position? (Or did I and several others on here, get that T-shirt for a different event).

4 - if you're gonna keep those narrow frame gear drives you better start thinking about investing in one of those neat tools for mounting the clutch assembly, releasing the big tension spring pressure and then making it alot easier to remove the roll pins. I think Charlie used to sell them.

Now, about the stud bolts for the head, I don't recall how the gas tank mounts on a 126, and you also need to check your tin work. I agree with Dennis in that the bolts should be screwed in as much as possible, but you also have to consider if they are used for the gas tank mount, and the L bracket for attaching a chain hoist, and the heat shield. I think you only use about 2 bolts and the rest are studs, so you need to make sure you leave room for what ever mounts on the studs, and don't forget room for the spacers, etc.

 

[tbdavis]

Working on an O and curious if anyone knows or has a pic of the correct header pipe/muffler setup on one of these dudes. The three O engines here all have a different setup and would like to have at least one correct one if possible. Thanks

 

[kshultz]

Terry, I think this is correct, someone might want to comment.

 

[bwittman]

What is an acceptable re-power for a 782?

 

[jchamberlin]

Harry: Thank you for explaining how a Vibra-Tach works. I borrowed one from a NAPA store owner one time, who had completed the mandatory service course required of B&S dealers, and he couldn't tell me how it worked, and I could never figure it out. I wound up buying a Tiny Tach instead, which has worked well for the last three years.

Bill J.: The last time I rebuilt an engine, a 1600 CC British Leyland product, I remember the instructions specifically said to be sure NOT to bottom out the studs before torquing down the head. I'm not sure why, I suppose it has something to do with either getting accurate torque readings, maintaining the specified tension, or possibly thread damage from differences in thermal expansion of the stud vs. the block, or perhaps simply a concern about eventual removal. All I know is that the studs were not supposed to be bottomed out. I screw them in until I feel resistance, and then back off 1/2 to 1 turn. I thought I would throw this out there since the topic came up, just my two cents.